Why? Are you running negative deck - piston above the blocks deck?
IDEAL squish/quench for a 4A is between .8mm to 1.0mm... 1.6mm is missing power
To the OP.... In a car like a Morris Minor (small, lightweight) you want to be careful about boost spikes.... It REALLY does matter what your final intended purposes is ( a question you should be VERY honest answering to yourself). If your desire is for a crazy dyno queen... there is a guy in Europe making over 700hp on a stock stroke 4AG (in a Datsun no less - http://youtu.be/lb8taD5wchg ) I don't believe I'd use it on the local roads
Again to the OP... Why use stock stuff? YES... the stock stuff is VERY strong... but it is also quite heavy. You can save OUNCES (not mere grams) on the internals by running quality aftermarket pistons and rods.... that will be not only lighter... but even stronger then the OEM stuff.
EXCEPTION - Most aftermarket cranks are about a kilo HEAVIER then the OEM crank - example TRD - This mass is to allow for enough counterweight to withstand the stresses of constant 10,000 rpm usage... and is why knifeblading a 4AG crank is BAD
Running aftermarket also allows you to "fix" a SERIOUS 4AG flaw - rod to stroke ratio - The Formula Atlantic engines now use rods slightly longer (about 5mm), the pin location in the piston is also moved the same amount higher in the piston. What this has achieved... the longer rod to stroke ratio has allowed the Atlantics to make their peak power 2000-4000 rpm lower then they did with the short rods.
Aftermarket piston also allow you to plan your compression ratio - (8.9 GZE pistons are only 8.9 to 1 under a 36cc - 16V head. Under a 20V head the compression drops - 20V head has more chamber volume then the 16V head, and so the compression drops.
Do your head work first... measure your combustion chambers, then do your block prep, then order your pistons and rods.
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