1st prob :
are the lines hooked up correctly ????? if they arent it could cause the pump to get hot forcing oil in wrong direction.
sounds like you have an air leak somewhere m8.\
Idle air hooked up ok ??
oky doky... 3 problems...Power Steering, Idle & Thermo Fan.
1st prob - turned the car over... within the first turn it fired with a little bit of noise which I thought was the idler pulley or something like that. then I realised that the resivour to the power steering (cant spell) was empty so I filled it up and turned the wheel over a couple of times and the steering was really hard.. after a little while the noise went away with fluid still in the resivour.. but for some reason the fluid was not getting hot at all! and figured that obviously ment it wasnt surculating. the power steering pump ended up bubbling the fuck out of the paint and practically started burning it off at the back of it, the pump was INCREDIBLY hot and so I switched the car off.. let it cool down for a hour.. came back and tried again and it started fine and then it like bogged down and switched off.. by this time I thought it was seezed, so I took it off to find that it spins perfectly fine with no slack in the pulley and it is pumping the fluid through when I turn it by hand.. I started the motor back up again and the motor ran without it shutting off multipul times. My dad said that I need to turn the steering wheel over for a long time because I completly drained the rack and there is alot of air in it apparently, because even when the pump had fluid in it, it was still very hard to turn over.
2nd prb - its idling very high (2500 rpm) and so we cant do the timing on it at that speed. what could be the reason for this? I have removed the ABV and blocked the port off and blocked the SC inlet up from the ABV.. I have also removed the air controller or wat ever its called that sits on top of the SC12 and was told just to run a hose from both sides of the charger. could this be the reason? if not I would ASUME that i have a vacume line set up wrong or something so I was chasing a diagram or even if someone had some images of there engine around the manifold area and charcoal canister area so I can check where the hoses go against my motor. but yeh thats gota be sorted out and its got me baffled cos I thought i put it back together correctly.
3rd prob - I had the two points jumped in the diagnostics box to do the timing (E1 and something else cant remember) not sure if this is the reason behind it but the engine light was flashing in like a sequence (not constantly) and my fan on the radiator wasnt working when the thermostat opened up. fuse apears fine.
hope you guys can help so desperate to drive this thing as i loose my licence in 2 weeks and thats it for 6 months
peace.![]()
1st prob :
are the lines hooked up correctly ????? if they arent it could cause the pump to get hot forcing oil in wrong direction.
sounds like you have an air leak somewhere m8.\
Idle air hooked up ok ??
300+rwkw 4agte http://www.toymods.org.au/forums/for...wkw-4agte.html
can anyone take some pics of there vacume lines so I can check on this?
Dan
PLEASE![]()
2 - I'd double check the blocking of your ABV. The shorting of the SC breathers (the 3 tubes coming out of the SC) will not cause this. Also try looking for where a vacuum line may have fallen off the inlet tract or VSV. Then try blocking each thin vacuum line by squeezing it carefully with a set of flat pliers. This will show which line is causing the high idle.
3 - The fan has its own temp switch to turn it on, I think set at a higher temp than the thermostat (that would make sense to me anyway). Maybe this hadn't quite tripped yet. Unplugging the switch should switch the fan on (easy way to test).
Also shorting E1 and T puts the ECU into diagnostic mode and the flashing of the check engine light signals the problems found. Read up on the technique for checking these codes.
Hen
off memory this is where my hoses go.
fuel pressure reg to canister.
turbo pressure sensor goes to side of intake plenum
on the filter side of TB short hose comes from there to a pipe off the fuel rail
Manifold hose goes to the SC12 Side of the TB
I think thats how i remember it.. not certain but just off memory thats how i have it.. just the cars not here atm.
what is the timing at? that may be the cause of your high idle, to much advance will increase the engine speed.
there will probably be heaps of air the in the system, so it may take a while to bleed out. did you pull the pump apart at all? no blockages or kinked lines anywhere?
Originally Posted by The Witzl
edit. new images
Last edited by AE101LEV; 14-06-2006 at 07:31 PM.
bumpasorous
It is pretty difficult to tell anything from those pictures. Try scaling them and rotating them to look better. Also try and draw out your vacuum lines a bit better.
Have you checked the pipes you blocked? And clamping each vac line shut?
I'm pretty sure I've seen a vac diagram for a ZE floating round the net, and I seem to remember Witzlburger also drew up a "home-made" diagram too. Look for these.
Hen
I have just taken some much clearer pictures.. I will upload them in 40 min
Dan.
just follow the colours. I know some connections are not plugged in but thats cos i wanted to show were the shit leads.
cheers![]()
just a thought my gze knock sensor broke and i put a 20v blacktop one in would that be making my idle so high?
bump in the night!
is that vsv i shown the BVSV or the VSV ?
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