I know BRD Racing in the US make an alloy crank pully for the T series motors.
http://www.brdracing.com/brdcatalog03.html
Regards
Rodger
Taking weight off the crank pully will help but not nearly as much as the flywheel simply because there is far more power needed to accelerate the flywheel due to the weight being further from the center.
I know BRD Racing in the US make an alloy crank pully for the T series motors.
http://www.brdracing.com/brdcatalog03.html
Regards
Rodger
thats true, but every lil bit counts sometimes!Originally Posted by Enchanter
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EP91 Toyota Starlet - AUStarletClub
Just for your interest:Originally Posted by Sam_Q
http://www.technotoytuning.com/productdetail.php?p=121
51LII - 1972 TA22 Celica | Morpheous Metallic | 4AGE 20v Silvertop | Razorback ECU | W58
Toyota Car Club (Qld)
thanks for the links, I would go for the crank pulley because I can make it smaller at the same time
dragging it up again but id be wary of going an aluminium front pulley as they do not have the rubber ring so its not a proper harmonic balancer.
MY RIDE, 2 Door LHD KE70 sedan with 1G HKS stroker: http://www.toymods.org.au/forums/showthread.php?t=51760
Punctuation is the difference between 'I helped my Uncle Jack off his horse' and 'I helped my uncle jack off his horse.'
if by making it smaller you mean reducing the radius remember this will spin all your ancillaries run faster. which is often not a good idea.
if you mean width ill just go back to my box
MY RIDE, 2 Door LHD KE70 sedan with 1G HKS stroker: http://www.toymods.org.au/forums/showthread.php?t=51760
Punctuation is the difference between 'I helped my Uncle Jack off his horse' and 'I helped my uncle jack off his horse.'
Smaller crank pulley will spin acessories slower, smaller accessory pulley will spin accessory faster.
Callum
hes right.
im tired
how far will you be revving the motor?
if your not going much more than stock and its a daily i wouldnt consider it a very bright idea.
you WILL lose oil pressure low in the revs
if my 1g is anything to go by quite a bit at idle speeds
MY RIDE, 2 Door LHD KE70 sedan with 1G HKS stroker: http://www.toymods.org.au/forums/showthread.php?t=51760
Punctuation is the difference between 'I helped my Uncle Jack off his horse' and 'I helped my uncle jack off his horse.'
How do you figure that? The front pulley has nothing to do with the oil pump.Originally Posted by love ke70
If you're going to make a new pulley, I'd be making a new larger one for the alternator as it doesn't need to spin as fast as it does.
Just leave the stock front pulley and run the alternator at around 120% of crank speed.
I also ran a 3kg alloy flywheel on the back of my engine and it was fine ..... once you got used to it.![]()
www.billzilla.org
Toymods founding member #3
Rubber ring in which engine's front pulley?
The T and R series motors do not have them. Do the A series?
I am sure that a motor which is being developed with lightweight spinning mass does not need a harmonic balancer type pulley.
Regards
Rodger
Hi Rodger, the A series do have a rubber layer in the crank pulley. Upgrade pulleys for the 4AGZE and such don't tend to have the rubber layer though and don't suffer any detrimental side effects.Originally Posted by Rodger
My KE25 thread
WSID - 12.8@108mph || Wakefield Park - 1:11.4 || SDMA Hillclimb - 49.1
Well there you go!
Now I'll also have to double check my 3S-G build also, I am throwing the pulley away anyway so it is just for future reference.
Regards
Rodger
right, my bad on the oil pump front. anyone say i wasnt thinking?
id just rather run a harmonic balancer rather than an alloy pulley. its obviously done for a reason...
MY RIDE, 2 Door LHD KE70 sedan with 1G HKS stroker: http://www.toymods.org.au/forums/showthread.php?t=51760
Punctuation is the difference between 'I helped my Uncle Jack off his horse' and 'I helped my uncle jack off his horse.'
alright thanks bill I think I will do just that,
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