Dry sump questions 4age

[Big T]

Hi all,

I am currently in the process of setting up a dry sump on a 4agte and have a couple queries regarding the feed line for the turbo and the gutting of the oil pump.

I've stripped apart a spare pump I had lying around and my question is, do I have to block/weld the original sump pickup as shown here? Technically it will no longer suck up any oil due to the lack of gears but I'd like to know for sure.



And does the oil out passage also need to be blocked off? Again, there shouldn't be any oil circulating at this part but I'm not sure if this connects to other oil passages that would be pressurised by the filter plate on the side of the block. Should I just be blocking it off at the other end (the hole at the far rhs of the pic) so the oil does not reach the bypass valve?



There is also a relief valve with a circlip and spring. Does this need to be removed?



And lastly, I currently have my oil feed for the turbo where the original oil pressure sensor would go. It is the port located on the exhaust side just near the coolant drain for the block. I have a suspicion that it is fed from the oil pump out passage before it gets to the oil filter plate. Can anyone confirm or deny this?

Regards,

Eddie.

[bermy]

I'm currently working on an external mounted pump (single stage wet sumped) here's what I did :

Got the stock pump and gutted it and got a plug in the outlet betwee the rotor and the pressure release valve




Got a screw through the side just to be safe


Now the factory installed 3/8bspt plug at the end that served to machine the hole will be the inlet.



All that's left to do is rig an external oil pump to the housing.

So I removed the 2 stud for the oil pickup tube and drive/driven gear + back cover of the pump. The pressure release valve is also removed since I'm using a pressure release in the new pump. If you are using a sandwish plate to feed the engine, you will need to get the oil pass behind it blocked (welded or plugged) and then you don't need to worry about plugging the oil pump like I did. Reason I didn't want to do that was because of this :



Water heat exchanger as oil cooler in place of the stock unit.

And lastly, I currently have my oil feed for the turbo where the original oil pressure sensor would go. It is the port located on the exhaust side just near the coolant drain for the block. I have a suspicion that it is fed from the oil pump out passage before it gets to the oil filter plate. Can anyone confirm or deny this?

Wrong, it's in the pass that goes to the head, between main crank bearing #1 and #2 so after the oil filter

[Big T]

So the oil passage between the oil pump out and the filter plate is a single passage that does not lead anywhere else in the block? Thanks for the help so far bermy.

[bermy]

Yep, if you look just above the 2 upper bolts for the A/C compressor housing, you can see the tube that runs between where the plug is in the oil pump housing and the lower part if the filter housing. If your engine is apart you can look through it. All it does is carry oil from the pump housing to the filter area. If you are using a sandwich plate as your "oil inlet" and are using an externally mounted pump that has a built in pressure regulator, that's the pass that you want to block. And strip all the oil pump, rotors, back cover, pressure release valve and you can also remove both studs for the oil pickup tube, would make possible to remove the oil pump housing without removing the sump

[oldeskewltoy]

typical racing dry sump systems remove the oil filter housing and plumb the system in there. Something like this....



or these...

http://i927.photobucket.com/albums/a...-10-46_570.jpg

http://i592.photobucket.com/albums/t...d/P1000427.jpg



They have a filter typically fitted to the back of the dry sump pump

[Sam_Q]

yes you can remove everything but the seal in the oil pump so long as you plumb the oil fitting straight into the side of the block

[Big T]

typical racing dry sump systems remove the oil filter housing and plumb the system in there. Something like this....

This is the kit that I have but I'm using a different crank pulley. Are you using this in a standard rwd setup? I already let Barry know but the bracket needs to be radiused slightly to accomodate the rwd engine mount. Work is not letting me upload pics so will post up later tonight.

Thanks for all the help guys.

Eddie.

[Big T]

This is how much needs to be taken out of the bracket.