Clutch adjustment - Urgent

[willwal98]

I have just finished putting in a new clutch kit into my 1g-gte (W58), install went fine but it won't disengage properly when I push the pedal in. I have bled the clutch and all the hydraulics seem ok.

Question is, how do I go about adjusting this? Do I adjust the pivot point inside the bellhousing or at the pedal or shim the slave cylinder???

[slide86]

i have had the same problem before. it turns out that the way i was bleeding it was wrong....

the way i did it to correct it was
- get some one to push pedal down and hold it
- open bleed nipple and bleed air
- close bleed nipple
- raise foot up off pedal
-
repeat procedure. if you were bleeding it by just pumping the pedal, it may not work properly.

adjusting the pivot ball can lead to other dramas. i did this once too, it was a real headache.

[Big rob]

the pin in the the slave cylnder. THis acts on the clutch forck. By changing the length of it you can change how the maximum movment of the clutch. So by getting some bar, cutting it to a longer length and rounding the ends. You should move the clutch further.

[willwal98]

clutch is bled properly, it's not that.

Changing the pin length was my first choice, actually I was planning on just shimming it for a test (defnitly not permanent). The other thought that had crossed my mind was the size of the master cylinder. It's the stock RA28 one. A bigger one of those would certainly move more fluid and therefore give move throw from the slave. But I had never had a problem with the old clutch (This one is a HD the other was stock).

[willwal98]

Anyonw know if that pin needs to be hardened or not? I have some mild steel rod here, it's a little bit smaller dia and I have no way of machineing the groove in it that the original one has to retain the ruber boot.

There must be another way to adjust this thing.

[thechuckster]

i found an adjustable rod at the wreckers.

Basically it's a long rod with a theaded section at one end and neatly rounded end for the slave piston to push on. The nut that wound over the theaded section had one face rounded off.

You have to modify the clutch -fork end (e.g. drill a hole) to allow the theaded rod to go thru the end of the arm and the face of your adjusting nut pushes on the arm.

You could do this with theaded rod or just a very long bolt - just gently use an angle grinder to make the groove for the rubber boot. Bolt/rod material should be stong as there's a fair amount of force involved in disengaging the clutch

cheers,
charles.

[bansheebuzz]

using a longer rod on the slave is a no no. This will result in the throw out bearing running all the time. One thing you can try is adjust the clutch pedal rest position and the pedal to master position.

If that wont solve it then have your slave sleaved down, this will give a stronger ratio. The only side effect will be a slightly heavier pedal

[Cuzzo]

Have you got the right slave for the box? If so you can rule that out as the problem and look else where.

Such as the adjustment of the rod connecting to the clutch pedal. Maybe you can get more adjustment?

[willwal98]

after I pulled the slave rod out I was a bit reluctant to make something for it. I have the right slave for the box, came from a half cut with the box and the engine. I think it could be the fact that I have an RA28 master for it, I assume it would be smaller than the gx81 and therefore would not push as much fluid. I'll try the clutch pedal now and get back to you.

[thechuckster]

addition to my suggestion - i have a return spring on the clutch fork pulling the external end towards the slave cyl so it positively withdraws the throw-out bearing away form the clutch fingers. I did this for my stock setup and when i used the adjuster.

[willwal98]

ahhh, such a relief. Pedal adjustment fixed it. I don't know why I did not think of this, I blame the freakin cold day

[Cuzzo]

The cold day? I guess there would be alot of dodgey cars in tasmania then. jks

[willwal98]

yeah but they don't notice down there due to certain multiple body parts

[Stinkydean]

Forget about adjustments, you will end up breaking the fork, you shouldnt need to touch the pivot either. When installing a heavy duty clutch from a standard one measure the width of the thrust bearings. Have been caught out with this a couple of times and have had to pull the box out again and again, ( very painfull when its 100 series cruiser) until noticing that the h/d thrust is a few mm wider than the original (especially if its an exedy), try a standard trust.