A341 1UZ MX83 Auto Shifting Issues (LIMP?)

[4th surf]

On the donor car which (from reading your other thread where you found code 56 then the wire to ground to kill that off) will be a UCF11 Celsior. Well on the dash it has a gear lever position indicator showing P,R,N,D,2 and L. The inputs for this display come from the inhibitor switch on the side of the gearbox, go to the display then back to the ECU,these need to be hooked up. Also if the VSS is not hooked up (this is part of the speedo assembly) to the ECU you'll have the exact problem that you describe and that is when D is selected and you try to drive you'll have first gear followed but a lot of stuff all as the ECU doesn't know how fast the car is going. I'm thinking that you have a combination of both. I may have a wiring diagram for the powertrain but wouldn't be able to send it till next week as it's at home on my PC and I'm somewhere else on the planet

[moonman]

On the donor car which (from reading your other thread where you found code 56 then the wire to ground to kill that off) will be a UCF11 Celsior. Well on the dash it has a gear lever position indicator showing P,R,N,D,2 and L. The inputs for this display come from the inhibitor switch on the side of the gearbox, go to the display then back to the ECU,these need to be hooked up. Also if the VSS is not hooked up (this is part of the speedo assembly) to the ECU you'll have the exact problem that you describe and that is when D is selected and you try to drive you'll have first gear followed but a lot of stuff all as the ECU doesn't know how fast the car is going. I'm thinking that you have a combination of both. I may have a wiring diagram for the powertrain but wouldn't be able to send it till next week as it's at home on my PC and I'm somewhere else on the planet

Thanks for the input mate.

The inhibitor switch is hooked up and working, its going to the dash, and I've pinned it to the ECU, if I unplug it, I loose NSW and the car won't start -- I also get the P, R, N, D, 2, L lights on the cressy dash.

The ECU is getting speed input, because if I remove the speed converter boxes (pulse voltage from 5V to 12, and a 5x divider) the ECU gets the over speed warning (Going only walking pace, the dash reads 160km/h) so I know the ECU is getting speed single.
Is VSS part of this circuit I've just described? I know about the two speed sensors, but on the wiring diagram I have, i've only got SPD, SP2+ and SP2-

I cannot see a VSS on the diagrams I have for the ecu (Maybe this goes to the cruise ECU?)

http://www.lextreme.com/lexecc1.pdf
http://www.lextreme.com/lexuecc2.pdf


I'm going to change/test the solenoids this weekend, until then I can't really do any mechanical testing, and I've checked everything BUT.
I've disconnected the solenoids plug at the rear of the box, and I'm using the manual shifting for now -- this is working fine, so I think the box is OK.

[dumbass]

maybe the position of the solenoid wires are different between the plugs
or like someone else on here had an issue with reverse signal to ecu
when in gear his ecu was thinking it was in reverse

anyway i make up a bit of wiring and plug it directly to auto box solenoids then control them myself
rather than ecu that way i can see if box is fine and problem is with ecu

its hard to know what the other guys have done with wiring of speed sensor boxes
but sounds like the 20 pulse speedo one is converted to a 4 pulse for the dash and the spd wire in ecu to be correct
this is fine
there is also another speed sensor sp2+ sp2-

[moonman]

Would you have a wiring diagram for what you've done so I can simulate it?

thanks,

Nathan

[moonman]

I've just tested the old solonoids, they move and have resistance of:

1) 14.6
2)14.7
3)8
4)8

Should the two Niger ones have a smaller resistance? They all click/move when powered.

I tested the others in the car, the first two have correct resistance, but I can't get the others(red black used) 3 and 4.

Could they read correctly but be jammed or sticking? The cars not throwing codes?

[dumbass]

the two niger ones should do all the work
and the white ones will sit back and make sure they work ok heheheh

just find sol a and sol b trigger then and listen for clicks inside gbox
they are the ones that give u the 4 gears

y did u change the box did old one have similar problem and u changed it or did it just wear out

maybe there is slight difference in the solenoid pinouts
so maybe swap over the solenoid wiring from one box to another
just means u need to pull pans off each box

[moonman]

My old box had a case of 195 tires, the thing ate two sets! So I had to replace the old box

It was on its way out and i pushed it over.

I tested the solonoids and I can hear them click when powered. I connected them and put a mate with a multimeter in the front seat, the ecu isn't triggering them. I've also changed the inhibitor switch to the other one, no change.

One solonoid has power no matter what (drive, 2, L) I didn't check when in park or neutral.

[dumbass]

ok if ecu isnt triggering them then its an issue with ecu or wiring
ecu is getting a bad signal from somewhere
maybe unplug inhibitor plug joing start wires together then go for a drive

u either have bad signals to ecu like someone had here recently
his ecu thought car was in reverse all the time
or u have speed sensor issues whihc is hard to know if correct without knowing what u previous guy has done
maybe the speed sensor is different from old to new box
if u have both speed signals to ecu eg spd and sp2+- and one is not right ecu has a spac i think
if u have just one connected and its right then ecu will change gears fine

[moonman]

Thanks for your help mate, I've figured it out completely.

1) As you say, there are two speed sensors that the ECU sees, one is SPD (Comes from the dash cluster, and in this case had converter boxes to make the dash speedo work), and the other is SP2+-.
2) SPD (From the dash) was connected and the ECU was seeing it (If I removed boxes, I got over speed warning), I assumed this speed was the one the ECU uses for shifting -- not the case
3) SP2+- wasn't connected to the ECU, hence the non shifting.

I Tested the speed sensor by using a multimeter and spinning the rear wheels, you can see a resistance change in the sensor.

Because the plugs were brittle and snapping, I thought it was pushed all the way in, but had a bit of plastic caught in the end of the plug, preventing it to make contact, I checked it with a good torch, and it wasn't in properly, connect that and all is well.

At least in this whole process i've fixed the following:

1) Power circuit
2) Overdrive circuit
3) 2nd circuit
4) L circuit
5) Engine warning light.

I'll start another thread, but I'm struggeling with Engine error 13, and really bad fuel consumption.

Thanks for you help mate.

[4th surf]

Code 13 is described as an RPM code. It only ever comes up if the timing belt is stretched or if you're a tooth out on the timing belt (generally advance on the crank) which doesn't help the fuel consumption as the valve timing will be retarded

[moonman]

Cool, I'll get a major service done, hasn't had one in awhile, If I meantion that hopefully they'll get it right!

Thanks again. Much appreciated, as this is a daily!