AE92 GT-Z - Crunch grind and slip

[BLSTIC]

Ok so I took my Levin out for a bit of a cruise last night. Or at least it started out cruising... But long story short I discovered that 3rd gear crunches a bit if I get excited, and after some spirited driving the clutch will slip.

So I guess I'm after a new clutch, machine the flywheel, and rebuild my gearbox...

I see a new heavy duty clutch (given that my supercharged engine has more boost than stock I'll probably need it) is around $300 eBay Heavy Duty Clutch so not so much wallet pain...

I know getting a flywheel machined costs around $40, up to $200 if I want to take some serious metal off it for lightening purposes. If I want I can go for an alloy flywheel for around $500 eBay Fidanza Alloy Flywheel

But for the synchro's I'm lost. Hell I don't even know what kind of gearbox I have. It's a 1989 Levin GT-Z, 4AGZE bigport, air-flow meter, non-lsd. Can someone identify it?

And is there anything else I should do while it's all off? How hard is the rear main seal to get to on these things?

And has anyone got one of those alloy flywheels before? Was it worth the $500 price tag?

Thanks
Ben

[TERRA Operative]

Welcome to the fun of a GZE.

For the flywheel, don't lighten it too much. You want the inertia for the supercharger. I just got mine machined and it was fine. The GZE isn't a rev monster anyway, so save your money on the Fidanza and spend it on a better clutch or your gearbox.
As for the box, if the engine is in the original shell, have a look on the VIN plate. It will tell you what gearbox you have.
Once the clutch is out, the rear main is worth doing, and easy to get to. Hit me up for cheaper prices from Toyota if you want to compare prices around the place.

I used to use an Exedy HD organic clutch that went well for a couple of years with 13PSI boost, but something a little more substantial would have been perfect at that boost level.



Also, LSD.

[BLSTIC]

For the gearbox i'm just going to try changing the oil. I've heard different reports about the redline shockproof and their other oil (mt90 I think), along with a carrol oil (syntrax I think).

They almost always say miracle cure but redline state "not for synchro" on the shockproof.

Any ideas?

re the clutch, it hasn't happened since. So i'm hoping it was just some issue with the hydraulics...

[TERRA Operative]

I stuck Royal Purple into my E-series box when the crunch started. I got another year of hard driving until it really went to the point that no oil would help it.

[BLSTIC]

So the crunch got better, disappeared completely, or just didn't get worse?

[TERRA Operative]

The crunch almost disappeared, but when it came back, the synchros were well and truly stuffed...

[BLSTIC]

Cool, well given that mine only crunch on hard sifts and I baby my baby most of the time new oil should do the trick. Thanks

[dnegative]

Don't punch the shifter, give the synchro's a second to slow the gear instead of forcing it.

[BLSTIC]

Well I have new oil in it now and the shift quality got a bit better, the crunch only slightly so. Turns out I had a full case of auto trans fluid in there... The clutch is still marginal though.

But I hear when people have these engines in RWD they occasionally have issues with the input shaft seal. Now I know the E58 gearbox I have has more support for the input shaft than most RWD boxes (so much that they don't run a spigot bearing), so is the input shaft seal ever a worry on these? Is it even replaceable without splitting the box?

Thanks
Ben

[BLSTIC]

Car is sold, so there is no more need to answer. Thanks for your help guys