2tg - playing with cam adjustments - help!!

[sillycar chick]

Hey peoples,

I found this link http://forums.toymods.org.au/index.p...t=0#msg_417380

Which gave me this link (courtesy of Cool1) http://members.iinet.net.au/~shanej/...Untitled-1.htm

Which really helps me, but doesnt really answer my question. I have a little oil seeping out the end hole as shown in the second link so will need to pull it apart and change to oring. I am getting what seems to be timing chain rattling noises from the engine, especially when revs are low (so i guess low oil pressure when lower revs?).

Just wondering if rebuilding the tensioner is going to fix the rattling noise? Or am I going to be up for more money and more time off the road becuase I have to pull the head and timing cover back off again? The rattling has only just started (not that I have driven the car much) since the leak started. When I put the engine together timing chain and gears were not new but still in fair condition, and guides were worn but were what I would call normal wear....

thanks guys

[BeRad]

are you sure its the chain?, does it rattle only when you first start it up , a few engines tend to be a little noisy for a few seconds until it gets enough oil up there. (not the chain obviously but moving parts inside the head)

has the chain be changed lately maybe the tensioner spring has had it, it may pay to replace it, its a cheap option and if its not the problem only a few dollars have been wasted.

[YelloRolla]

to fix the leaking tensioner, pull it apart and replace the O ring - takes about 10 mins and will be teh best 10 mins you will spend with your car (apart from a 10 min thrashing or 10 min in the back seat). I just use ones out of an O ring kit - you may need to go to a bearing shop if you don't have said kit.

As far as the rattle is concerned - is the tensioner adjusted correctly?

[sillycar chick]

The tensioner seems to be adjusted properly - we did it as per the toyota manual. It has between 5-10mm movement when you stick a small rod in the end and push in. And we primed it with oil before we put it in...

[shelldrake]

I was told it needs to be set for about 5kg of force. But don't take my word on it. When you put the slippers in did you pull the right hand side slipper(Ex. side of head) accross before tightening bolts?(As per manual.)

[sillycar chick]

um what do you mean by slippers? I probably know what they are, just dont call them slippers

[tricky]

The tensioner seems to be adjusted properly - we did it as per the toyota manual. It has between 5-10mm movement when you stick a small rod in the end and push in. And we primed it with oil before we put it in...

It's 0.5-1.0mm @ 3-5kgF. Basically just a gentle push. If that isn't a typo, and it does have 5-10mm of play.... That would be the reason for the rattle!

Slipper = chain guide thing.

[sillycar chick]

Sorry, yeah I was being a twit, we did set it at around 1mm not 10mm.

When you put the slippers in did you pull the right hand side slipper(Ex. side of head) accross before tightening bolts?(As per manual.)

And I dont remember seeing anything about this in the manual... the manual didnt seem to tell us much except how to adjust the tensioner between 0.5 and 1mm

[shelldrake]

If you were looking at the engine front on. (Inlet left, exhaust right) From counter clockwise - You have the top tensioner (no. 2) on the left, a slipper on the upper section of the head and a longer curved slipper on the right. This longer curved slipper Needs to be held (pulled accross in direction of other side) as you tighten the bolts. Also, one thing I thought of, are the chains new? If not, are they within tolerance? Are the slippers and lower chain tensioner worn beyond tolerance? Check manual for these specs. Otherwise, I can post them for you tonite.

[sillycar chick]

If you were looking at the engine front on. (Inlet left, exhaust right) From counter clockwise - You have the top tensioner (no. 2) on the left, a slipper on the upper section of the head and a longer curved slipper on the right. This longer curved slipper Needs to be held (pulled accross in direction of other side) as you tighten the bolts.

Hmm cant remember if I did this... and this would mean pulling apart my engine again, wont be able to work on it until the weekend as its dark by the time I get home and my boyfriend has kicked me out of the shed again

Also, one thing I thought of, are the chains new? If not, are they within tolerance? Are the slippers and lower chain tensioner worn beyond tolerance? Check manual for these specs. Otherwise, I can post them for you tonite.

I didnt buy any new parts and didnt check them either. I know, its very slack of me and I should have done it. I did check if the chain had much "play" when you curve it against the sides (if this makes sense) and it seemed in fair condition. Guides probably arent the best but I didnt know where to get any more at the time, and the lower tensioner was in reasonable condition.

All I am hoping is that the upper chain tensioner is what is causing the problem, as I only just got the thing on the road and it would be a big dissapointment to pull it all apart again. Even if it lasted a few months so I can enjoy gently cruising in it again I can say though the rattling does dissappear on higher revs, its only there occasionally when the revs are low and rarely in higher revs, so am hoping its all to do with oil pressure due to the shot oring in the tensioner.

[shelldrake]

Fix chain tensioner before pursuing other alternatives.

[sillycar chick]

Tonight I put in my dad's good tensioner. I primed it and got all the air bubbles out and it built up good pressure as per the manual. Then I installed it as per the manual and ended up inside the tolerence.

The chain noise is still there. So, I went to my dads and picked up his nice new oil pressure gauge, and it read 50psi (around 300kpa) at 3000rpm. My stupid manual is a toyota one and doesnt even tell me what the oil pressure is supposed to be, but 50psi is pretty good anyway.

So, what other avenues can I take to try fix the problem before I have to pull the head back off to get the front timing cover off and replace everything? I was thinking of maybe changing all the upper guides I can get to by taking of the front round plate on the head and the cam cover, but will have to save up a bit if I am to do that. It really does sound like its the upper chain....

[sillycar chick]

Sooooo, are there any other avenues can I take to try fix the problem before I have to pull the head back off to get the front timing cover off and replace everything? cos it wasnt doing it before I got this tensioner leak, and now I have replaced the tensioner, and adjusted it as per the manual, but the noise is still there....???

[o_man_ra23]

replace the chain, ive done it many times on an 18RG without taking the head or timing cover off... just takes a bit of time, some patience, and some semi stiff wire to thread the chain through with. take the breaker link out of the chain, tie the wire to one end, and thread around the bottom cog (bottom of the upper set, not the one on the crank). should be able to pull it through with some wiggling, and with rotating the motor (your valves should clear, remove cams if not sure) This way only requires removing the timing cover and dizzy.

Ive also done this to upper 18RC chain, and 22RE chain(full length)

Cheers, Owen

[sillycar chick]

replace the chain, ive done it many times on an 18RG without taking the head or timing cover off... just takes a bit of time, some patience, and some semi stiff wire to thread the chain through with. take the breaker link out of the chain, tie the wire to one end, and thread around the bottom cog (bottom of the upper set, not the one on the crank). should be able to pull it through with some wiggling, and with rotating the motor (your valves should clear, remove cams if not sure) This way only requires removing the timing cover and dizzy.

Ive also done this to upper 18RC chain, and 22RE chain(full length)

Cheers, Owen

Sounds pretty difficult all the 2T-G chains I have seen dont have any links in them, and you need to line up the 3 silver links with the dots on the three gear cogs.... I dont know how I would do this on the lower cog without removing that front cover :-(