4A-GE diag. code 6 & 11 and a problem.

[Bio89]

hmmm ima try that test, but i need to do like a t pipe to conect the pressure gauge and the lines of the fuel that will work? if doesnt increase then its bad... if it increases the pressure works or its faulty because it needs more pressure...

seems a good idea but i need to take out the gas and all to check it S: and the pumo im getting or willin to buy its at 30dlls with tax and all, so i think i get down the fuel tank check the one inside and put the new, if the one inside was stuck or something i save it and use it when the other one gets bad.. like a storage hehhe

uuuhm good thing and whats the OEM flow rate??? dont know that one hehehhe just was watching the psis, if gives lots more flow i run out of fuel faster and give more fuel to the engine S:S:S: im buying it on a page that its OEM replacements i asked for the psis but will ask for the flow rate too thx for that one

nice was good the weather? xD sometimes its ultra hot.!!!

[Bio89]

Look heres the specs of one on EBAY
NEW FUEL PUMP (Specs: Max Pressure - 85-90 psi; Flow Rate - 55 gph / 208 lph) would that be good?

[allencr]

It doesn't accumulate pressure, only quantity of fuel. Must be running VERY lean!!!
Pump is constant speed/volume the regulator releases what isn't necessary. Jump the plug on the AFM/MAF to run the pump without the engine cranking.
Low voltage/bad connections to the pump may be causing the low pressure output.
Skip the all timing BS if it runs well & idles smooth. If it runs well it can't have a starting problem caused by cam and/or ignition timing..
Good luck.

[Bio89]

but flowin fuel on the line and the pump pushing it creates a pressure and fuel flowin rate so that can help to pass the FUEL PRESSURE REG. well as far i can understan because its like the same with the Air compressors

i have done the jumpin the fuel pump and gives only 23-25psis, conections are not bad, because are not cut, soldered or something, no one have mess with them stock, and about the voltage i dont think that but need to see maybe, maybe can be the strainer too or the line

on parking its at 1500 - 1600rpms and on D gear at 800 - mas 1000rmps thats good?

[jondee86]

Look heres the specs of one on EBAY
NEW FUEL PUMP (Specs: Max Pressure - 85-90 psi; Flow Rate - 55 gph / 208 lph) would that be good?

Factory pump flows around 80 lph, so I don't think the pump you are looking at would be a good choice. Take a look at this page... http://www.theautopartsshop.com/elec...p/afe8023.html and look at the fitments list. That will give you an idea of some of the junkyard cars that could have a suitable pump.

Otherwise, this pump... http://www.familycar.com/store/item/...SPISP8016.html seems quite well priced. Not that I have ever had to replace a pump, so I will leave it to you to choose what you want to buy

Cheers... jondee86

[jondee86]

but flowin fuel on the line and the pump pushing it creates a pressure and fuel flowin rate so that can help to pass the FUEL PRESSURE REG. well as far i can understan because its like the same with the Air compressors

Factory injectors flow around 200cc/min @ 45psi, so for four of them being open continuously (= sitting on 7000rpm in 5th gear on a circle track) you would use 4 x 0.2 x 60 = 48 lph. So pumping 255 lph with a Walbro pump just circulates a lot of gas unnecessarily, heating it up and probably making it impossible for your factory FPR to hold a steady rail pressure. A pump with 80-100 lph capacity will be fine.

Your engine is designed to work with 40 psi in the rail. The injectors will inject the correct amount of fuel at 40 psi and give you the correct Air/Fuel Ratio. The FPR is actually a pressure sustaining valve not a pressure reducing valve as you would find upstream of an air tool or spray gun. The FPR maintains a constant upstream pressure, a pressure reducing valve maintains a constant pressure downstream

Don't worry about the idle rpm until you have the fuel pressure fixed. Solve one problem at a time, as the two could be related.

Cheers... jondee86

[Bio89]

ok, so the OEM PUMP its with 80lph, THANKS for the links !! helps a lot, $35 its good, considering it too, because the other ones have bigger, like twice flow rate S: S:

haha just curious, what will happen if i put the 208LPH pump??? what are the bad things? rich mixture? wont run? tank empy faster?

(Lol sorry didnt notice there was 2nd page with your answer)
thx man ! gotta hunt for the pump and then tell you hows everything ^^

[Bio89]

Bump, finally the new fuel pump i bought got home , and start getting ready for the surgery.!, did everything to take fuel out of the lines, go on with removing all the hoses, the line that goes into the tank when you fill gassoline, and everythin took out the 2 bolts that holds the tank, took the tank off, remove the old pump, check everythin it was a Walbro GSS278 it had some corrosion on the socket... but it was working, took everything out started fittin the new one, everything went in with no prob and reverse all the work to put it back.....

then everything was ok, but i have a energy leak (dont know how to say it) and the batery was dead..., so it was 8pm i leave it there, went in and got some sleep, today when i got back from school i put another batery and it did start but took some time (because there was no fuel on the lines i think) so it started, BUT the fuel light was on...... poor me xD, so i went so get some gas and put it in, put the other batery and start it, i let it there a time ON to charge the batery and make the fuel pump work a bit, turn on the car and was going to turn it again ON and i was like please turn on fast, pls pls.... put make a start try and BAAAM.!! starts inmediatly.!!! so happy that i did it like 3 times xDDD leave the car a while off and try again and its fine

Soo it was the pump about the issue of the starting, tomorrow im going to check if theres any CODE on the car and see if anything changes
and guys if you could help me on the energy leak, i cheked all the fuses with the batery in, and the car on the lock position without the key, and check the fuses with the multimeter and read 0 if reads voltage then the prob was there, its this metod ok? i did it and double checked, every fuse motor panel, and side kick panel, the one fuse reading voltage was the CIG fuse ( 15A ) if there another mode to check i can try it just explain me a bit

Thx a lot guys.!!

[JDM hachi]

There are some good youtube guides out there, have a look, it's easier than having to explain it to you.

Don't take the above comment the wrong way, I was looking for an answer a while ago, and found a guide that was very good, search for "voltage leak"

matty.

[Bio89]

Hhaha no worries man ^^, learnin and learnin thx for searching ima see some metods to check it today, i dont like it.....

oh by the way the car its hard to start when its cold.... like always, but NOW when the engine its hot it starts inmediatly.!!! what can i check for the starting on cold issue?
take out the FUEL PUMP problems its new , ima change the fuel filter it doesnt have 3months there, but i think its better to change it, no? because the faulty pump, and i had checked the cams and the crank theyre lined and the dizzy its pointing the #1cyl, but ima try to buy the dizzy o-ring to take out the dizzy check everythin and put it back, any other idea?

[Bio89]

Bumpi dumpy hehe guys got news.!

1- Found the electric problem, somehow with a cable i jumped the relay and the accesories was always on.. it was my bad xD but got it and put a new set up on the cables so no more electric problems.!
2- The car now starts at 1rst try

Now i need some help to solve the codes 6 and 11, ideas?