What size crank and rods does my 4age have?

[ballpencil]

just want to share my 4AGTE build on my Charmant..
1. HKS copy cast manifold. Elaborate on the terrible split pulsing pls? Using it on TD04H-15H and found no noticeable problem. I even got it burning bright orange from lean AFR at first and it doesn't even crack. Definitely very strong.
2. RX7 440cc injectors. Bolt straight up to the smallport and high impedance so no need flyback on the Megasquirt.
3. 4AGZE 8.9 CR 20mm pin. Just want to point out that you can use smallport piston rings on these. Ringlands are the same.
Ran 0.8 Bar and the pistons are still smiling.

[Ken_T]

We're talking about this one right?

The pulse division is meant to be like this:

not like the way that manifold has it. Minor issue.

The big issue is, the gas comes out of cyl 1 or 4 and goes around the bend to the collector thingo, then where does it go? make a hard upward turn to the turbo or take the easy way out and just keep following it around to number 4/1? As far as I can remember the 2/3 collector bit had a nice radius forcing the gas up toward the turbo. Not that I've seen but mate tells me a real HKS cast manifold looks like a philips head screwdriver when looking from the turbo flange. Has a nice radius directing the gases to the turbo.

I don't doubt its strength but it's not designed, uhhh, I mean copied well.

The FC RX7 injectors are 550 cc/min but they don't spray fuel well. You can use them but they are not ideal. What the injector should be doing is providing a finely atomised fuel vapor that's equally spread. This gives better intake charge homogeneity and will provide a better and faster burn. To counter this you sometimes have to dump the fuel in so that even if the fuel is not evenly distributed throughout the combustion chamber there's so much of it that you can get it to burn decently. But then you start getting into looking at intake swirl, quench pads, wet flow and all.

Cool pictures half way down the page here.

[Ken_T]

fuel lines: atm my 4age is running on the factory ke70 tubing. 1/4" feed, 3/16" return, 1/4" vac/charcoal canister line.

this probably wont be suitable to run a 200hp 4a, correct?

Think i should change the piping and hosing to 5/16" (feed,return) and leave the vac as 1/4"?

People have run more power than that on stock lines. It's no problem.

but I'm picky so I put 5/16 aluminium fuel lines in my car. God damn it was a pain in the ass job. I took stock lines to enzed and got them to make it in what I thought was copper tube. Stuff didn't fit worth a shit and went rusty. Bought some green coated tube on a roll and tried doing a line myself but the bender I bought wasn't happy with the line I got. The copper stuff was a different OD to the coated stuff. Was much happier bending the copper lines and kinked a few of the bends on the coated line. Not that I was using a wicked swagelok line bender or anything, just a 20 dorrar ebay bender which probably wasn't helping.

So I gave in and bought some aluminium tube on a roll and some double 5/16" line clamps along with single cushioned tubing clamps and a nutsert gun. I ended up re-routing the lines so it was nowhere near the bigger gearbox I have in the tunnel. and since the aluminium is so easy to bend, I bent it with my hands as I could get nicer looking bends with that than the bender.

cliffs, Get a hoist, pull the motor, crossmember and diff out and buy a nice tube bender. double check the location and angle of every bend. Get extra line and practice marking and locating bends.
Have fun !