Electric water pumps?

[gmonkey]

back to the original poster.... lol

i have this set up on my 1j - only running alternator of the harmonic balancer.
I removed the tensioner as well.
Moved the alternator to the passenger side of the motor.
mounted the pump between the bottom radiator hose and the thermostat houseing.... i have removed the thermostat.
the waterpump housing - i left in place, removed the impeller off the shaft, as well as the pulley etc

now i have had dramas with the waterpump controller - i rushed to get my car ready for the nats and haven't sorted the bugs out yet.
i cant comment really as to its effectiveness as yet.

Cheers
Stew

got any pics of your setup?? pretty much exactly what i was thinking of doing it..

[toyota1515]

U need to leave the thermostat in

[CrUZida]

Remember that most Toyota thermostat's are dual stage.

That is when they are are closed they run in bypass mode (to heat the engine up quickr), and when they are fully open they block off (or restrict flow to) the bypass passage.

Removing the thermostat opens both these passages at the same time, making the cooling system much less effective (as a portion of hot coolant will continually bypass the radiator).

[mullett]

back to the original poster.... lol

i have this set up on my 1j - only running alternator of the harmonic balancer.
I removed the tensioner as well.
Moved the alternator to the passenger side of the motor.
mounted the pump between the bottom radiator hose and the thermostat houseing.... i have removed the thermostat.
the waterpump housing - i left in place, removed the impeller off the shaft, as well as the pulley etc

now i have had dramas with the waterpump controller - i rushed to get my car ready for the nats and haven't sorted the bugs out yet.
i cant comment really as to its effectiveness as yet.

Cheers
Stew

For the reasons people have mentioned here, I'm not a fan of replacing the thermostat and letting the EWP controller do it's job...you could use them both, but I'd rather just have a thermostat and a basic temp controlled output for the EWP...(or even just a really crude setup: Run it at 6v until the engine gets to where the thermos kick in and then switch to 12v)

[trdee]

Remember that most Toyota thermostat's are dual stage.

That is when they are are closed they run in bypass mode (to heat the engine up quickr), and when they are fully open they block off (or restrict flow to) the bypass passage.

Removing the thermostat opens both these passages at the same time, making the cooling system much less effective (as a portion of hot coolant will continually bypass the radiator).

and now we have found the real reson...

[gmonkey]

back to the original poster.... lol

i have this set up on my 1j - only running alternator of the harmonic balancer.
I removed the tensioner as well.
Moved the alternator to the passenger side of the motor.
mounted the pump between the bottom radiator hose and the thermostat houseing.... i have removed the thermostat.
the waterpump housing - i left in place, removed the impeller off the shaft, as well as the pulley etc

now i have had dramas with the waterpump controller - i rushed to get my car ready for the nats and haven't sorted the bugs out yet.
i cant comment really as to its effectiveness as yet.

Cheers
Stew

oh also where u get ur belt from for the altenator??

[Toy77]

i could prbably snap a few pics if i remember....

as for the belt - found one at super cheap - it is only a 4 rib or something... though i went and saw cbc the other day and they can probably get me a 6 rib to suit now i know the length.
I thought the lower number of ribs would be ok as it is only running the alternator, but my tuner tells me that each of the belt have different rib profiles as well depending on the number of ribs - if that makes sense...

Cheers'
Stew

[aus jd 2703]

not with 4pk and 5pk etc, same profile just different number of teeth. i know in some cases we have cut down 6pk and used them as 5's to get a customer out of trouble. i work for CBC funnily enough.
but your always best to run what the manufacturer suggested eg a 6 rib. as you may run to much tension with the 4pk to stop it slipping and that will be bad for the bearing etc..

[mullett]

Yup, you *can* run a 4 rib, but you *should* run whatever is the maximum possible.

[Hen]

For the thermostat discussion: http://yarchive.net/car/engine_water_restrict.html

I'm still trying to find a great, informative article I once read (essentially same conclusion as above) relating to cooling system setups for some old racing V8s.

Also I wouldn't worry about 4, 5 or 6pk if you are just running the alternator. I once ran a supercharger (4AGZE) for a few months on a 4pk. Still made normal boost and didn't sound like it slipped.

[trdee]

For the thermostat discussion: http://yarchive.net/car/engine_water_restrict.html

yerp, that description be correct. add my explanation as to why higher flow helps rather than hinders heat transfer and you understand the full picture

[e30-323ti]

Following with interest, particularly in the context of a 1JZ pwr'd Race / Circuit Car

Miezere also do a 'bolt-on' pump for the 2JZ (should also fit the 1JZ)
HERE - 35GPM rated


Also been looking at the Stewart EWP's
HERE - 55GPM rated

[allencr]

How much heat do those electric motors put into the coolant, sorta pre-heating it from the radiator?

[Hen]

How much heat do those electric motors put into the coolant, sorta pre-heating it from the radiator?

At a glance, negligible to very little. Look at the size of the 12V supply in the picture above, that wouldn't be able to pull much power.

And a quick look at the Davies Craig website gives maximum current (EWP80, a random pump I chose) at 7.5A. So max 100W. Entirely ignorable.

[mullett]

Yup...compared to the heat output of the engine, it'd be so close to nothing as makes no difference..