it will be fine, the only time it may become a issue is on the track, but tbh i cant see it being a problem
Hello all,
I am in the process of doing this conversion and I have a few queries about about heat regulation in the engine bay of the ST185 Group A Rallye. From what I can tell by the design of the Group A Rallye (different hood used to evacuate air from the engine bay rather than direct it to the intercooler, along with a small inlet duct for cambelt cooling and a different bumper that is much lighter and has more openings than the standard one) there seems to be a heavy focus on evacuating heat from the engine bay as opposed to more traditional hood scoops found on the standard ST185 models. So my question is, will i need to adopt this approach in my conversion to an ST162? I was planning to have a front mount air-air intercooler rather than the topmount water-air intercooler found on the Group A Rallye, but if heat regulation is an issue in the ST185 then I will have to take appropriate measures to ensure it will function at a lower temperature. Secondly, will an aftermarket front mount air-air intercooler require an aftermarket ECU or will the stock ECU manage with this modification?
Thanks in advance.
it will be fine, the only time it may become a issue is on the track, but tbh i cant see it being a problem
1990 Aus Delivered Widebody GT4 Play 200 awkw
1996 HDJ80. turbo multivalve 80 series landcruiser
1997 HZJ80 Landcruiser Sold![]()
1993 Soarer V8 Manual Sold![]()
1986 Celica SX Sold![]()
Wicked,
Thanks for the feedback blakeg : )
provided your cooling system is all up to scratch you won't have any day-day issues from the heat, the st165 gt4 as big fat zero hood vents as do many other turbocharged vehicles
cheap way to get some airflow out is to space the bonnet up with some washers and longer bolts at the hinges
heat just tends to turn wires and plastic brittle over time, which i'm sure you'll find that this damage has already been done.
Hey Jonathan Yee,
Yes, I have noticed some dried out and brittle wires and plastic components inside the engine bay. As far as cooling goes I think I will stick with all the stuff that comes in the 185. Upon further exception when I was further dismantling my front cut today I notice that a lot of the cooling from the 185 can be transplanted into the 162, so that is what I will be doing. I have decided to stick with the top mount water-air inter cooler as well which will save me some $$$.
Thanks for the info.
the WTA system works great, only issue i see you maybe having is trying to find space to fit the HE in front of the rad. you may find it easier to by an after market one from frozen boost or the like.
also if your wiring in the grpA ecu you'll have to keep the WTA or do some extra wiring to stop the ecu from going into limp mode if you don't have the WTA or factory water pump for it.
but if your going after market ecu, then it'd also prob be easier to fit a bosch water pump. much more simple 2wires instead of the 4-6 that the toyota water pump has.
eh the other wires are just resistance winding wires, untape it and there are two main ones. positive and negative. simple. and the stock pump is way better than the bosch ones while they are still good
1990 Aus Delivered Widebody GT4 Play 200 awkw
1996 HDJ80. turbo multivalve 80 series landcruiser
1997 HZJ80 Landcruiser Sold![]()
1993 Soarer V8 Manual Sold![]()
1986 Celica SX Sold![]()
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