Try to extract error codes first, do you see any?
hello guys so i got a problem my 1jzgte vvti from a jzx171 or jzx110 is turning off when reaching boost and going on higher rpms has anybuddy encouter the same problem?
Try to extract error codes first, do you see any?
USSR GAZ24 with 1UZ-FE VVTi (UCV24) http://www.toymods.org.au/forums/showthread.php?t=60301
Engine conversion is when you drive a shitbox which costs a whole LEXUS to own
will do it tomorrow i dont have the car here........... where can i check the codes?
as usually, tc to ground and see warning light flashing
there's a number of conditions when ecu will enter failsafe mode, that is fuel cut. Checking for codes will show which condition enters the faisafe.
USSR GAZ24 with 1UZ-FE VVTi (UCV24) http://www.toymods.org.au/forums/showthread.php?t=60301
Engine conversion is when you drive a shitbox which costs a whole LEXUS to own
thanks yes now I know how to pull out codes but were can I look the meaning of the code? Do i need a Toyota manual
google toyota obd1 diagnostic codes
USSR GAZ24 with 1UZ-FE VVTi (UCV24) http://www.toymods.org.au/forums/showthread.php?t=60301
Engine conversion is when you drive a shitbox which costs a whole LEXUS to own
allrigth gorge i got the codes its 14,22,38,41,46,62,63,65,68,76,77,78,89
apperently i think i got to much boost when it hits 10 psi the engine shuts down
http://www.troublecodes.net/Toyota/
this one lists code 14 as ignition failure (never mind another meaning of turbo pressure failure-the latter is for diesel engines). So I think it misfires at overboost which is quite normal.
USSR GAZ24 with 1UZ-FE VVTi (UCV24) http://www.toymods.org.au/forums/showthread.php?t=60301
Engine conversion is when you drive a shitbox which costs a whole LEXUS to own
yr boost gauge might be out
normally 12 psi is toyotas limit
and they might shut down badly at 14 psi
i think if u hit boost cut too many times ecu just spits it
u might need to remove battery for few mins to reset it
i know this happens on some nissans
anyway try doing something so u get 7 psi and drive it like that for abit and see if its better
reset ecu if u do that
so george in few words i migth have to change the igniter chip?
Last edited by joooeone; 24-01-2012 at 04:59 AM.
good i will try that dumbass
we tested the car today and it turn off one time but then we did 3 runs and we reached 10 to 12 psi and like 7000 rpm idk and it never turn off ut after that we try and do another pull and it turn off again
u have to get boost down below 10 jsut to be sure its boost cut
if yr getitng close to 12 then i will most probably boost cut
once u get it down to say 8 or 9 then see if it doesnt play up
its so easy for boost gauges to be inaccurate especially the 10 dollar ones hehehe
so get it down low just to be sure yr boost gauges isnt 1 or 2 psi out
joooeone ignitor fails extremely rarely. As I said above, I think your engine turns off because of misfiring at high RPM/high boost. In turn, your main reasons for misfire may be
1 Running your engine without a MAF => too lean mixture sometimes => misfire => fuel cut
2 Running too much boost => stock ignition can't fire at overboost (make sure you don't exceed stock boost range like dumbass said above).
3 Using bad plugs/high voltage wires/coils . These components are critical for good spark at high boost. While n/a engine or turbo engine at low boost may run guite good with the same stuffed parts.
I would recommend that you first clear all the errors (disconnect battery for 5 minutes), then warm your engine, and write down every code you have this far. Then run your engine until it turns off. Then write down codes once more, and see which ones are new. So only these "new" codes are ones that lead to engine turning off. Your current error list is too big to deal with.
Last edited by George; 24-01-2012 at 08:42 PM.
USSR GAZ24 with 1UZ-FE VVTi (UCV24) http://www.toymods.org.au/forums/showthread.php?t=60301
Engine conversion is when you drive a shitbox which costs a whole LEXUS to own
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