Grinding a 2TG block to fit 3T crank

[jb_22]

You can rego it with the 13T no worries, whether or not you get happy motoring is another question =P

The cams in the 2TG is what gives the bigger lift & yes you could get your 3T cam ground to have similar lift & more duration. Keep in mind the standard 3T pistons need a bigger exhaust valve relief, I had to get my OS ones machined to suit the 2TG head, so if you go higher lift you might need to look at either aftermarket pistons or taking them to a machinist.

I have a 32/36 weber complete with 2T/3T intake manny & redline airfilter assembly. Works with the stock linkages too, so straight bolt in job Came off my 3T doing ~10L/100km before it blew a HG & bought a 2TG off Gordon... happy motoring, I think not - motor had snapped pistons rings... Good luck with that 13T. Not sure what the weber setup is worth but if you got a front smiley bar in good nick I'll trade you & pay for postage both ways

My plan with the body work is do all the hanging panels (boot, bonnet, front guards, front lip) in 2pac gangsta primer & do guide coats with lots of sanding so they're smooth while the car is still on the road, then when I'm happy with that lot I gotta bite the bullet & take the car off the road to do the shell & maybe spray it factory purple. There's rust above the window sills on the roof, which is pretty serious - gotta strip the headlining & weld in new bits. Still tossing up if I should take the screens out yet, thinking about giving gordon a ring & ask him what under there looked like & how he treated the rust under the screens ~4 years ago before I bought it.

[BrianGT]

I came a cross this very same problem when I tried to build a 3tg engine.....the early 2tb/2tg engine blocks were around 5mm longer at the bottom of the bore.......the bit you have to grind away.
It seems they changed the length of the bores later by shortening them and that's why some 2t blocks are ok....2 we had in the workshop were ok but mine, the earlier one, wasn't.
I was too frightened to grind the block away in case I holed it so I just built a regular 2tg engine.

[jb_22]

Well everybody I've done 150km on the new motor without any hitches, so I guess the grinding was enough. Haven't taken it over 5g yet though. I guess I took about 3mm of meat off, minimal possible because I was worried about reaching the coolant side.

[vanman]

good stuff, mate! hey, forgot to ask before - what's the casting number of the engine block itself? I think there is a number cast into the block near the starter motor - want to check if mine is the same casting or not. I'd take that weber off your hands if I had a spare smiley bar - let me know if you come up with a $ amount for it including getting it to brissy if you still want to offload it.

Cheers
Vanman

[jb_22]

Yes I remember seeing some extra numbers there plus a little tag screwed onto the block with numbers, didn't take note of what they were though. This is the best look I can get at them without pulling the starter:



If you want that weber, $110 & I'll post it to you with everything needed minus a new airfilter, but they're less than 20 bucks from auto stores.

Have a feeling the 3TG is running a little rich - plugs were dark brown with a little soot & I got just under 13L/100km out of the first tank.

[jb_22]

Looks like 11411-36013 to me

[ctrain]

im about to grind mine out man, wish me luck!