1MZFE wont rev

[EldarO]

my 1MZ wont rev, it gets to a certain point and just bogs down.

doesnt matter whether its free revving or in gear under load, it just wont go, however, if i back the throttle off to 10-15% it'll accelerate hard, also, while its bogging down/being same-sex-attracted, it will stumble along forever without stalling out, and, if you blip the throttle, it bogs down, then the revs go up.

so far, ive made sure that the NSW and STA wires of the ecu are spliced together, i then joined them to the trigger wire of my starter relay, bizarre, im used to doing 1JZ -> A70 conversions, the only thing you have to do is ground the NSW pin, not the case here.

the timing isnt out
the fuel pressure is a steady 50PSI
new fuel filter, cause the pressure was dropping before i replaced it.
ive replaced the spark plugs, old plugs were black as the ace of spades, so that made me think ignition not working properly?
i had exhaust leaks from dodgy exhaust gaskets, replaced them, its mint now.
and the cat isnt blocked (the cat "Grid" is still 100% perfect)
ive been through all the trials and tribulations with the factory immobiliser, its in and wired up properly, its not the issue.

i was going to progress to pulling the injectors out and having them cleaned, however, especially if its a wiring issue, id rather avoid that if i could.

i have a haynes manual for an MCV20 camry, safe to say, the wiring diagrams it showcases are effing useless.

any more information, the car starts, idles and carries on wonderfully if the throttle isnt touched, but, as i didnt build this car as a paperweight/statue, its not the ideal situation.

[Fantapants]

i had something very similar with a ke70, turned out the timing was fucked. but it also was having interference in the spark leeds... we insulated them where they came near each other and reset the timing and it all went wonderfully... very different engine, but such a similar set of symptoms, might be worht a looskie...

[wilbo666]

Have you checked the TPS?

In particular the IDL contacts (idle)? If the IDL contacts are staying closed or closing too early the engine ECU will enter 'fuel cut'.

What RPM is it 'bogging down'? around 1800?



Cheers
Wilbo

[dumbass]

funny how everyone blames the nsw and sta wires when they know nothing on how they work
and ive never seen a good explaination on how they work but thats for another day
anyway like wilbo said check tps but check signal
.6v at ilde and rise to 4v at full
just incase its not fitted right and maybe as buttefly opens its not engaging on the lever inside tps
did u wire up obd2 plug hope motor is obd2 compliant
put a scanner on it and u should get heaps of info
maybe also check yr map/maf signals
sounds liek u r not getting acceleration enrichment

[EldarO]

the timing is 100% spot on, its not the issue.

the bogging happens with how quickly you open the throttle, if you stomp the pedal is bogs straight away, however if you slowly open is you can almost wind it out the full rpm range.

as far as my understanding goes.

the NSW wire is connected directly to the ignition via the "starter" fuse
the STA wire is connected to the starter relay.

between the two is the neutral start switch, which, if in park or neutral, joins the two circuits, if in any other shifter position, the two are kept seperate.

hence i just joined them together and whacked them onto the starter relays trigger wire.

even as i write this, its making sense to me that way, however if im missing something blatantly obvious, please correct me, ill be happily disproved.

all my searching has led to incorrect NSW/STA wiring as entering the ecu into "limp mode" an producing the garbage i have going on.

as far as the odb2 plug goes, ive connected up a few wires, beleving that to give me at least a check engine light to source some sort of fault codes, but since the TE1 and E1 pins are completely missing from the plug i gave up on that idea.

i shall check the TPS now and relay my results shortly.

[EldarO]

ok, i went through first, made sure all the fuses were fine, plugs were plugging in nice and secure, battery connected, immobiliser turned off, key turned to on, and the car not running.

TPS is fine.

however, while i was there, i thought id check the MAF sensor.

suprise suprise, i have no power on the B/Y wire, which should be switched to ignition.

so i stripped back the wiring, connected a temporary wire around into the boot, to the B/Y gangbang of wires i have, went and turned the key, battery flat.

yag.

once the things charged enough to start the car, im hoping this'll be the end of my headaches, after of course, i trace that wire back and find out where its broken.

[dumbass]

power to maf would have gone to one of the dash
or body plugs I presume and maybe u didn't probe
all extra wires to see what they do
Toyota looms sometimes do that and the join
is under dash rather than on loom
that wire might also power other solenoids like the middle
butterfly vsv

[EldarO]

it was one of the body plugs off the engine loom, id connected it, but after peeling back some of the insulation, it looks like the engine looms been caught at some point, i dont remember struggling with it, so im just going to blame the guy that took it out of the camry

anyway, ironically, it was the only wire broken, reconnected it, battery partially charged and it runs fooking sweeeet, it even has the cold start high idle after startup now!

[wilbo666]

Hmm interesting that it didn't throw a code re the MAF sensor!

Good work sorting it out!

funny how everyone blames the nsw and sta wires when they know nothing on how they work
and ive never seen a good explaination on how they work but thats for another day

You might want to have a look at this page on my wiki that I did up at some stage re the NSW engine ECU pin

wilbo666 / Toyota NSW Engine ECU Pin

Cheers
Wilbo

[dumbass]

i know how the nsw and sta wires work
just im always reading people grounding the nsw wire wwhenever something goes wrong
and they dont really know y or how it works inside the ecu but that it sometimes cures there problems hehehehehe
when car is in drive that nsw wire never sees ground

maf prob wont bring up a code because signal wire would still have had some voltage down it just not the right voltage
normally will bring a code when open circuit or shorted to ground but if maf hasnt got 12v to power it the signal wire
still has some sort of voltage i pressume
also late model motors have no more te1 and e1 so there was no way of getting codes until he hooked up the obd2 plug
which after 2000 ish toyotas run a k line protocol or something on the obd2 but u should hook the obd2 plug up
as this also talks to immob ecu and u need this to program keys ive done it afew times and its fiddly but u have to
replicvate door opening and igntion turning on and off many times heheheeh

[EldarO]

'everyone' grounds the nsw wire because thats how toyota wire it in a few of their older models, jza70, ma70, ga70, jzx81 for example, from what i can tell, their newer models are wired differently, jzx90 and mcv20 from my personal experience. Its just the luck of the draw, and it all proves the fact that whatever your doing, you NEED toyotas proper wiring diagrams, otherwise your taking pot shots in the dark and threads like this are born.

Ive done the best i could with what ive had to work with, and anybody else in the same situation wouldve done the same. The best thing available to me was the haynes/gregorys manual, that i bought specifically for the diagrams, and theyre utterly useless!

[dumbass]

yes only haynes manual ive got is a ford ba bf and its useless aswell
has wires and wire colours but no location of wires
thats y i go direct to manufacturer to find things
its who u know not what u know

[wilbo666]

maf prob wont bring up a code because signal wire would still have had some voltage down it just not the right voltage
normally will bring a code when open circuit or shorted to ground but if maf hasnt got 12v to power it the signal wire
still has some sort of voltage i pressume

Possible, but in general there is ussually a pull up resistor inside the engine ECU that detects if the MAF is unplugged, unpowered etc.

If the MAF was not powered then I personally don't understand how it would have "some voltage down it" (that wasn't generated by the engine ECU and hence would be known of by the engine ECU...)

I would have thought MAF unpowered would appear in a similar fashion to MAF open circuit , but perhaps not Interesting anyway

also late model motors have no more te1 and e1 so there was no way of getting codes until he hooked up the obd2 plug

FYI: On the later model Toyota engines that I've played with you can bridge the diag pin Tc to E1 to get the check engine light to flash in the normal fashion.

Cheers
Wilbo

[dumbass]

ok cool
so its just like the old diag plug that had the tc wire in it too

i just use late model landcruiser info for obd2 diag plug
as most late model toyotas use same protocol and wiring is all the same

not sure on maf unplugged being the same as not powered
i know on nissans because of internal resistors in maf u always get signal when plugged but not powered
but unplugged u dont get same signal
anyway some ecus wont bring up codes straight away
u need to drive it thru its full range to get codes
also codes are a quick guide same as using a scanner points u in right direction
then u need brains to figure rest out hehehheeheh

anyway if u google obd2 wiring theres shitloads of info out there
very late 2j vvti i think uses same obd2 wiring as most toyotas
i know the landcruisers have one extra wire from ecu after u get past 2003 model
once i was looking for aurion workshop manual and found one but called a camry and
they said was similar so there is stuff out there for camry not sure early model like the 1mz thou
might have to see thru my links what i can find

my home pc and brand new lappy run win7 so nealry all my automotive software and cd workshop manuals dont run anymore so when i get time ill fix my old lappy and get it working again
win7 64 bit is even worse on my new lappy nothing old works on it

[EldarO]

Possible, but in general there is ussually a pull up resistor inside the engine ECU that detects if the MAF is unplugged, unpowered etc.

If the MAF was not powered then I personally don't understand how it would have "some voltage down it" (that wasn't generated by the engine ECU and hence would be known of by the engine ECU...)

I would have thought MAF unpowered would appear in a similar fashion to MAF open circuit , but perhaps not Interesting anyway



FYI: On the later model Toyota engines that I've played with you can bridge the diag pin Tc to E1 to get the check engine light to flash in the normal fashion.

Cheers
Wilbo

pin 1 from memory, had 5V even with it unplugged from the MAF.