ke20 ke25 T50 hydraulic clutch conversion options

[aspheric]

In need a bit of help here

I've been trying to dig up info on possible setups / strategies for converting a ke25 to hydraulic clutch but haven't really had much luck.
Beyond lots of mentions that people have done it I'm not finding much concrete info on what works and what, if any, is the most straight forward solution.
The lowly clutch seems to get glossed over in most build threads..

I'm going to be using a T-50 out of an ae71 to go behind a 4age/te in a ke25, all of which i'm very new to.

Can any of you wizened xE2x gurus drop some knowledge on this one for me - I'm thinking what pedal box (or part thereof) you used, what clutch master/slave, mounting strategies, and any known issues to plan for..

Heck feel free to throw in pictures - I'm sure having a bunch of info in one place would be useful to plenty of others

I need to get started hunting parts to get my swap underway


Thanks

PS, if this info is somewhere in the dedicated ke thread I apologise, I havent had the courage to begin reading that weensy little thread

[aspheric]

The motor, box, tail shaft are coming out of a ke35 with an un-known hydro clutch setup - anybody reckon it could be swapped across?

I guess I will find out soon enough but it might save me some gentleman-vegetabling about if somebody could make an educated guess as to interchangeability between e3x and e2x...

[Hurricane]

not sure if the ke30 setup ill just bolt in place of the ke2x items, i beleave that the ke3x pedal box might be longer, u might be able to cut it off the ke3x and graft it into the ke2x.
one way to find out.

checked out my ke20 thread, ive made one but cant seem to find picks? pritty simple, its not the best way out there of doing it but its been working for me for 4 or more years with no issuses, using a ta22 or t-18 master cylinder, i made a weld-on bracket of the right side of the stock clutch pedal (were the rod runs through) this come out, then drops down to covert to push motion, i then mounted the master inline with this braket to the fire wall (i think there was a indint from factory were i drilled my cetre hole?) hole sawed a hole, bolted the master up and made some new lines.

if i cant find any more details illl write somethign up.

dan.

[Hurricane]

yeh doesnt seem like i wrote up about it, ill get some pics today for ya

[aspheric]

Awsome that'd be excellent thanks bloke

[Hurricane]

Ke2x Hydro Clutch setup

I used the stock manual ke2x peadal box
TA22 celica clutch slave and master (till i swapped the slave when running the W55)
i also used the clutch line from the TA22, but a new one is easy to make

Made a custom braket that is welded to the righthand side of the clutch pedal pivot rod (or what ever u wish to call it)
14mm rod coming out 65mm from the centre of the rod pivot
welded to that and dropping down is a 80mm ish length of 20x4mm flat bar, with a hole centre to centre (from the 14mm rod to the drilled hole for the master push rod) of 65-70mm
its also angles back slightly to get the right through for the clutch master.
I WOULD TACK THIS ON FIRST AND WELD THIS ON LAST, ONCE U WORK OUT WERE IT NEEDS TO BE TO GET THE RIGHT SWING FOR THE MASTER
Also if u wanted to make this stronger u could weld some 4mm triangle plates on or in the corners over lapping each other on the bar (so u dont create a weak point were the two welds meet) SEE THE FIRST PIC (I BLUE PARTS)
also you could weld these plate on the side of the bar and plate, not straight under the centre so it helps with the twisting force more.
and run one on each side, so the top ones on the front and the bottom on the back, or both sides if u really wanted to.


the master cylinder its self is just bolted to the fire wall after hole sawing and drilling the bolt holes
its located just above the parralel line from the brake master (so about 10mm higher than the brake master) i dont think it would fit as good being lower?
its about 110mm across from the brake master (centre to centre)

think thats about it, ether find a stock line that works (TA22 in my case) or make/get one made, the slave will depend on the box your running (ive always just used what the box has had from factory)

Ive seen other setup run right infront of the clutch pedal, but for me this doesnt work as there is no room in the engine bay.

Ive been running this setup for over 4 years i think, never had an isssue with it, it doesnt even flex.

in the future i plan to move the brake master to were the clutch master currently is, then shift the clutch and throttle over for more engine bay room. this will need a full custom pedalbox.

here are some pics, top ones has some dodge paint drawings in it showing the triangle plates and dimentions i was talking about.











hope is all makes sense, and that my spelling isnt to poor haha

dan.

[aspheric]

Wow that's a great write up. I'm sure I wont be the only one to learn something from that!

[parrot]

Other option is to source a TE27 pedal setup via Japan. That came hydraulic from the factory for a TA22 type T50.

They come up occasionally. But sounds like you can't really wait, so fabrication is the way to go.

TA22 pedal box isn't any better by the way

[Hurricane]

yes i forgot to mention that, ive been looking for a TE27 one (with a lazy effort) as they seem to run the brake master closer to the strut tower as i want mine.
alas there not up for sale much.

[aspheric]

All good info guys thanks. A te27 pedal box would be great but slim chance of finding one... Looks like modifying the original pedal will be the go in that regard.

Does anybody know the legalities of a wilwood or tilton pedal box for road use?