1MZFE in SW20 wont start -factory immobiliser - solved

[EldarO]

ok, so its in, and as far as i can tell, wired up properly.

when cranking over, the motor will fire once, and then die, from then on, you can keep cranking it over till your hearts content, and it wont fire again.

ive pulled the spark lead off, and, as expected, it fires once, then cuts spark, however, if you turn the ignition off, then back on again, it'll again, fire once, then cut spark.

im guessing this is the internal security doovalacky? the only other thing i can think of is maybe the autos having a whinge? and i havent found the NSW pin and grounded it properly.

[dumbass]

what year is the 1mz
if it came out of a car which has a pic of a little red key in the dash then it has an immobiliser
in the ecu and if it does theres afew things u might be able to do but all are a pain

[EldarO]

its a 98...

from all reports i have toyota started using immoblisers in their cars 97-98 but they werent in ALL camrys till about 2000.

only the jap ones after 2000 are clear of immobilisers :/

[2jzhilux]

If the donor vehicle has a 1mz in it it and was aus delivered it will have a transponder key.
Having a non matching key code will do exactly what you are describing.

[pandaah]

sounds right, that time it fires and stalls is the time it takes for the ecu to distinguish a key code miss match, the transponder needs to be connected to the ecu with the chip from the key close by it..

there must be away to bypass that section in the ecu?.. like finding out what signal it wants and tricking it?

[2jzhilux]

It will be hard to duplicate the signal as it sends a rolling code to the transponder ecu then if the key matches it sends a rolling code to the engine ecu.
You may be better off trying to find the original key and transponder ecu if possible but then you would have to wire it all up like the donor vehicle.
Do you know what model the motor came out of?.
I know there is people who can bypass the system but all of them i have seen are not that cheap. Like 500+

[knightrous]

Check the ECU for error codes first. If the crank sensor is playing up, you will only get spark for a second or two while cranking before the ECU gives up when it cannot detect the rotation of the crank (Mates 4AGE AW11 did this on the weekend). Same thing with the Circuit Open Relay (COR), if it's not wired up correctly, your fuel pump will shut off as soon as your stop cranking.

If the ECU errors come up clear, I would then jumper the fuel pump to power at the diagnostic connector (FP to B+ if I remember correctly)

[2jzhilux]

Check pin 20 and 21 in the D plug on the engine ecu, they are imo and imi which is basically immobilizer signal in and out.
It will be sending a signal through these two wires, maybe check what happens with the voltage on these two pins when it cuts out.

You can also get an analog multimeter and check for codes by joining OP1 and E1 pins with the meter
Read them the same as you would an engine light, if you have 31,32 or 33 its no good.

[dumbass]

immob signals need to be checked using an oscilloscope and then maybe try to replicate signal
u need it all to be hooked up to get any correct signals which u dont have
so all u can do now is find if there is a 1mz ecu from japan with now security
or wire up the transponder and key reader and program a key to it
anyway u will have fun trying to sort it out

[EldarO]

well im just gonna go grab the key and transponder unit out of the car the motor came out of now, so that should solve my issue.

i figure ill just tear the key apart, pull the transponder out of it, whack it inside the transponder amplifier, and wire that all into the ecu where its mounted, i just hope the amplifier isnt a big bit of kit, so its all still hidden in the boot lining.

thanks to all that have answered, liberal amount of rep will be shown, i love this place

[EldarO]

immob.jpg

hopefully this means problem solvered, got the key, the sensor ring, and the key transponder amplifier box.

why is it, that i can never find wiring diagrams for cars im wiring up?

ffs.

[dumbass]

U should have traced the wires before u cut them
White/black is ground
Just buy a Camry Haynes book for 30 bucks

[EldarO]

immobiliser plug.jpg

this is the immobiliser plug

and i should have traced them, and i would have, if i had the option

whats the deal with getting diagrams off toyota?

do i just go into the service department with a carton of beers?

[EldarO]

ok, this engine is out of an mcv20 camry, the old lady has an mcv30, non vvti, so by and large the same, i hope.

thing is, her security light flashes, until you put the key in the ignition, it doesnt have to be all the way in, just in enough to touch, then the sec light turns off.

got me thinking, that the transponder ring around the ignition only reacts if the key is grounded.

no dice.

the little "door" in the ignition barrel seems to be the contact point for the key barrel, im just wondering how it works? one of the pins on the immobiliser box connects directly to the barrel maybe?

i went and bought a gregorys manual for the camry as suggested, and the wiring diags in it are fuckin hopeless, the immobiliser box isnt even listed as having a ground at all :/

[EldarO]

Check pin 20 and 21 in the D plug on the engine ecu, they are imo and imi which is basically immobilizer signal in and out.
It will be sending a signal through these two wires, maybe check what happens with the voltage on these two pins when it cuts out.

You can also get an analog multimeter and check for codes by joining OP1 and E1 pins with the meter
Read them the same as you would an engine light, if you have 31,32 or 33 its no good.

the gregorys manual i have says that the yellow/black and yellow wires go to the ECU as "signal" wires.

problem is, the only yellow/black and yellow wires i have on the ecu, that are on the same plug, are on plug "a"

pins 20 and 21 on "d" are yellow and red/white.

im starting to yank my hair now...