Reliable gen 1 3sgte at 11psi?

[trd-st162]

Just wondering what peoples opinions are at running a 3sgte gen 1 on 10-11psi?
Currently its runnin 6 psi and its VERY responsive to what i'm used to,
Damn easy to get around

What sort of addon wear would this extra 4-5 psi do?

[ra23celica]

Various GT4 forums archives indicate that the reliable limit for a Gen 1 3S-GTE is about 14-15psi, so moving up from the stock 6psi (?) because I thought it was 9psi on these things, should cause no additional problems.

[Hydra]

It may feel slightly more laggy because you will not hit 11psi as quickly as you hit 7psi. That said the power benefits will be quite good, and you will learn to live with the extra half second of lag

Just make sure the cooling systems are up to it (especially the intercooler).

[JustenGT8]

Engine integrity will be fine at that boost. just bear in mind that the Gen 1 ECU is the worst by a long long way. Boost cut is around 11psi in those from memory. If it's aftermarket control then the engine internals will take 17psi all day...your crappy a/w IC is the next thing that will limit you.

Hydra, on 11psi the car will hit and pass the former 6psi mark quicker as the gate starts opening later so while it might 'feel' laggier (but i doubt that) the reality is that it will be less laggy and substantially quicker.

[Hydra]

I feel that depends on the method of boost control. The jaycar kits would be good at this because they will stop any form of pressure hitting the wastegate until it's actually needed. Other controllers usually allow pressure to the wastegate from the get go.

That said, I agree, things will be better anyway.

[trd-st162]

Engine integrity will be fine at that boost. just bear in mind that the Gen 1 ECU is the worst by a long long way. Boost cut is around 11psi in those from memory. If it's aftermarket control then the engine internals will take 17psi all day...your crappy a/w IC is the next thing that will limit you.

Hydra, on 11psi the car will hit and pass the former 6psi mark quicker as the gate starts opening later so while it might 'feel' laggier (but i doubt that) the reality is that it will be less laggy and substantially quicker.

Will it wear down parts a lot quicker though?
Thats my only worry, even 10psi i'm sure will be quite quick,

What can be done about the a/w IC? I like the fact that its all stock and wanted to keep a top mount as i have a Carlo Sainz Bonnet scoop just above the exhaust manifold...

Would the headgasket blow or anything? from 6-10 would there be a substantial wear? like would the engine life reduce by a lot?

[-=DV=-]

Just wondering what peoples opinions are at running a 3sgte gen 1 on 10-11psi?
Currently its runnin 6 psi and its VERY responsive to what i'm used to,
Damn easy to get around

What sort of addon wear would this extra 4-5 psi do?

*hand up*
st165
170xxx on the clock, ive been runnign 12psi for almost a year now as a daily driver ~50,000 ks, 10 thousand of that was actually at 15psi, no problems except for the turbo slowly dieing but it is past its use by date anyway, the turbo has near 100 k on it

[-=DV=-]

What can be done about the a/w IC? I like the fact that its all stock and wanted to keep a top mount as i have a Carlo Sainz Bonnet scoop just above the exhaust manifold...

u can make the pump run full time, and buy some of that heat reflective insulation stuff to cover the bottom of it and such, it makes a huge difference, best thing you can do though is just go frontmount, the difference is INSANE

check my ride thread anyways
http://toymods.net/forums/showthread.php?t=4820

[trd-st162]

[QUOTE=-=DV=-][QUOTE=trd-st162]What can be done about the a/w IC? I like the fact that its all stock and wanted to keep a top mount as i have a Carlo Sainz Bonnet scoop just above the exhaust manifold...
/

u can make the pump run full time, and buy some of that heat reflective insulation stuff to cover the bottom of it and such, it makes a huge difference, best thing you can do though is just go frontmount, the difference is INSANE

check my ride thread anyways
http://toymods.net/forums/showthread.php?t=4820

The pump has been already modified to run full time which is good..

So probably 10psi would be very little wear in comparision to stock then?
I'm sure the turbo won't last forever but yea is it quite a difference to 10-11psi?

Thanks for the post!

[JustenGT8]

Boost does bugger all in terms of wear as the piston and rod load don't change much at all. It's revs that wears engines. That said, with more bist and a gruntier feeling car you are going to drive it harder more often eh...so that will obviously increase wear.

The above listed mods for you a/w IC are the go and same for FMIC, hard to beat.

[-=DV=-]

i understand keeping the top mount, but it is seriously just a restriction and doesnt flow very well at all above stock boost, perhaps you could track down a 185 w2a topmount or a 205 topmount to help things out?,

even with the stock topmount and no insulation 10psi is a massive difference over stock, it feels really restricted at stock boost, and 10 psi feels like its opening up how it wants to, wear and tear will be no different, these engines were built like brick shithouses, like most toyota engines, and they can handle a thrashing and a half. but seriously i will go on the record for saying the best thing u can do i/c wise is frontmount, mine makes more power now on 6psi than it did on 15 with the topmount!

[trd-st162]

Problem with it is engineering the front mount,
Not sure if it would have to be engineered,
With the gt4 radiator it doesn't have as much space anymore

Maybe I might try the 10-11 after all
I bet fuel economy would go through the roof though hahhaa.

[-=DV=-]

yeah the frontmount would have to be engineered, shouldnt be too hard to do, mine isnt though, but as u can see from the pics on my ride thread its hidden very well., it takes some moving and ditching of parts from behind the front bumper but its worth it.

10-11 is alot better for economy than 6-7 is, speaking from experience, if you drive sedately that is, if you get into it hard its no different really, the mapping on the 165 ecu is terrible, basically anything over 3 grand + posotive pressure its just pouring the same amount of fuel in as it is at 7 grand WOT lol, so when u start running more boost, it starts leaning out a more acceptable afr, running alot better and being alot more efficient

[trd-st162]

yeah the frontmount would have to be engineered, shouldnt be too hard to do, mine isnt though, but as u can see from the pics on my ride thread its hidden very well., it takes some moving and ditching of parts from behind the front bumper but its worth it.

10-11 is alot better for economy than 6-7 is, speaking from experience, if you drive sedately that is, if you get into it hard its no different really, the mapping on the 165 ecu is terrible, basically anything over 3 grand + posotive pressure its just pouring the same amount of fuel in as it is at 7 grand WOT lol, so when u start running more boost, it starts leaning out a more acceptable afr, running alot better and being alot more efficient

I heard the ecus are quite bad haha.
But yeah is there somethin to prove it more?
So essentially accelling sudately (or the more med to aggresive) driving actually reaches the same fuel consumption due to the fuel ratios set normally?
What sort of fuel economy did u return on ur normal driving out of a tank per 100kms say?
And what about when u were accelerating quite hard

+rep for both thanx!

[Jorrs]

i ran 14 psi for nearly 2 months with prety much no problems
it can handle it mine will be bak up to 12 psi soon and hopefully FMIC !
though my turbo isnt standard and is pretty much new and been highflowed, im not sure how the stock ct26 will go.