im not asking if it does, im asking if i need to do something with them to stop the missing/backfire issue, as ive read that on some 1jz's you have to do something with them or the car with miss high up in the revs.
ECU does not check for speed sensor when in P or N mode. So you don't.
USSR GAZ24 with 1UZ-FE VVTi (UCV24) http://www.toymods.org.au/forums/showthread.php?t=60301
Engine conversion is when you drive a shitbox which costs a whole LEXUS to own
im not asking if it does, im asking if i need to do something with them to stop the missing/backfire issue, as ive read that on some 1jz's you have to do something with them or the car with miss high up in the revs.
NSW Pin...
wilbo666 / Toyota NSW Engine ECU Pin
Cheers
Wilbo
ive looked at that wilbo, its a little bit over my head.
what ive tried this morning, i found the 2 nsw wires on the body loom plug, i sent them both to earth on the battery, this didnt fix the problem unfortuntely.
i cant check the codes any more for some reason either.
when i put the test light on the warning wire that goes into the ecu now, i is just a constant light, no flashing....
if i rev the car slowly, it WILL NOT miss or back fire until very high in the revs. and sort of quick pump of the throttle and it misses.
iam totally out of ideas now and very pissed off!!!
What it boils down to is the following.
-If you want the engine ECU to think that the automatic transmission is in Park/Neutral then GROUND the NSW engine ECU pin
-If you want the engine ECU to think that the automatic transmission is in Drive then leave the NSW engine ECU pin OPEN CIRCUIT (i.e. not connected to anything)
Did you check the TPS?
Cheers
Wilbo
well my pinout does not show an nsw pin on the ecu, jut 2 nsw pins on a body loom plug.
my pinout only shows one pin called neutral start switch
i disconnected everything to do with the neutral start, as in the bridging that i had, also cut the neutral start switch wire, with it joined and with it cut... the car still starts!!!!!!
so this has really go me stuffed....
if you were going from auto to manual... wat exactly would you do with the nss wire to ecu and the 2 nsw wires o the body loom plug???????????????
ok, i managed to check the codes again, continuous flashing, so no errors.
ive got the car revving to redline now, no missing, as long as you rev it to redline really slow.
if you give i any quick rev it just backfires....
im sure it has to do with my neutral start wiring.
the neutral start wire into the ecu, i cut it in half, i can still start th car whether its joined or not, but if i join it while the car is running the car stalls..
jzz30 engine ecu pinout - Google Search
Second hit - NSW pin is shown on the leftmost plug, second row, third pin from the left.
To me that indicates that you haven't wired a starter relay as per the factory wiring!
If you have no starter relay and have bridged the automatic transmission P/N switch that is used in the starter circuit then you have effectively connected the engine ECU STA input pin to +12V all the time...and this will tell the engine ECU that you are trying to crank the engine all the time...I'm not sure that effect this will have, but it could explain your issues.
We need to remember that the NSW engine ECU pin is connected to the engine ECU STA pin via the automatic transmission P/N switch that is used in the starter circuit when the P/N switch is closed.
We also need to remember that the NSW engine ECU pin is connected to +12V inside the engine ECU via a pull up resistor. So if you bridge the P/N switch and don't have a starter relay connected as per the factory wiring then you may have issues...
I'd wire the starter relay, and hence the NSW and STA pins as per factory.
Or you could leave the NSW pin disconnected / open circuit (tell the engine ECU the automatic transmission is in Drive)
And connect the STA pin to the starter signal directly.
Cheers
Wilbo
Yes, that's true when starting the engine.
But I suspect the main function of the NSW engine ECU pin is for when the engine is running - not starting the engine.
i.e. In the below images (taken from my wiki link above) you can see that I've 'greyed' out the power from the IGN switch as when the engine is running is doesn't play a part
Cheers
Wilbo
Last edited by wilbo666; 18-09-2011 at 11:39 AM.
i have got the starter relay wired up as per factory as far as i can work out.
all i did was get the starter relay from the halfcut, traced each of the 4 wires off it, and hooked all 4 of them up as per factory to the relay and put it in the skyline...
but to try it your other way to see if this fixes the problem,
ill cut the NSW wire into the ecu.
now the wire from the STA pin, where do i hook this to, what is the starter signal wire, as in the wire to the solenoid on the start motor???????????????
all i had to do in the conversion i did was take the selector switch plug and connect the 2 fat wires on it one comes from a plug under the dash (from the starter point on the ignition barrel) the other side goes to the starter solenoid on the starter motor...
the car then would miss at 4500rpm
we then grounded nsw or sta pin on the ecu and that was it...
EDIT: after thinking about wilbos diagrams a bit more the STA pin should be chopped from the loom and grounded on the ecu side
and
That doesn't sound right.
If you have the starter relay wired as it was from factory then the engine should NOT crank when the automatic transmission park/neutral switch is NOT bridged.
Or to say it another way, you should need to have the automatic transmission park/neutral switch bridged to be able to crank the engine if the starter relay is wired correctly.
i.e. You should need to connect or bridge pins 5 and 6 on the below plug for the engine to be able to crank.
Cheers
Wilbo
hi can any one help me i have bin trying to do my wireing for ages now and i think i need help. im using the na gearbox. and its a 1jzgte in a mkiv supra this is what iv got so far.
ik1 yellow/black oil pressure gauge =pin 25 orange plug supra low oil pressure switch (output) or pin 33 low oil level switch (output)
ik1 reverse light red/black = pin 36 orange plug reverse light and reverse gear auto tran indecator (output)
ik1 water temp gauge yellow/green = pin24 orange plug dash water temp gauge ground.
ik1 tacho black =pin29 tachometer output from ignitor
ik1 blue/yellow engine light WARNING = pin15 engine ecu W check engine light
ik1 speed sensor red/blue =
ik1 at switch blue =
ik1 VF diagnostic plug=
1k1 green/red TT test plug=
ik1 white L a/t indicator switch=
ik1 green/orange p patern select switch=
ik1 gray/red od2 o/drive switch=
ik1 red/white igw=
gray/yellow T=
ik2 brown groud 4 fuel pump=
ik2 black NSW=
ik2 black/blue NSW=
ik2 brown ground for clusters
ik2 red/green S a/t indecator=
ik2 green CCo
ik2 light blue tems check connector=
ij1 red/yellow ELS idle up external load input = pin 32 orange plug ELS elec load sense
ij1 yellow/green engine light /battery light= pin 34 orange plug alternator L charge warning light output
ij1 black natrural start switch=
ij1 black/white starter=pin23 orange plug ignition switch power
ij1 red/green FPC Fuel pump control =pin4 gray plug fpc control output
ij1 pink SP speed =
ij1 green fuel=
ij1 black/red fuel main= i put direct to the batt
ij2 black/white starter=
ij2 red idl1 primary throttle tps
ij2 pink D1 fuel pump control relay speed sensor= di fuel pump diagnosticc indecator
ij2 brown/yellow fp control=
ij2 green/white STP stop light switch=pin11 gray plug STP stop light switch input
ij2 white/red S2 speed sensor=
ij2 black/yellow 12v switch alt to charge=
ij2 black switch power ignition
ij2 green/black progressive steering + =
ij2 green/black progressive steering - =
iv got myself really confused as iv written down loads pages and its giving me headache now lol please can you help
your other thread was enough...
have you searched for the doccuments/wilbos wiki like i suggested you do?
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