Alas VN doesn't run a MAF only MAPOriginally Posted by Robbos_Toyotas
fuel pump relay playing funny buggers?
Yeah MAF semsor would generally cause it to run shitty constantly...once again...generally...cars and electronics are weird things...
Alas VN doesn't run a MAF only MAPOriginally Posted by Robbos_Toyotas
MX83 Grande
DirtyWan Skyline GX
sounds like you may have a crank angle senosr fault there too. they are prety common to stuff up on these engines.
they will cut out, and when they cool down, they will let you start and drive until they get hot again. then they will make the engine stall. sounds like whats going on with your beast.
i think the coolant temp sensor is at the front of the intake manifold, under the alternator??? (its been a while since i touched a VN at work). they come in and out pretty easy tho.
Originally Posted by The Witzl
PROBLEM FOUND!Originally Posted by Bananaman
Eldar.O.
sounds like cold start? thats the only thing i can think of that runs just after you turn the motor on for a short while.
I eventually found the coolant sensor, its under the alternator like you said slide86, i wasted half a day trying to find the stupid thing
Fuel pump is running, i know because i can hear it these days, haha. I'll get a replacement for that on tuesday anyway, but its still working fine. I'll finish off changing these two sensors, then ill check codes again, and see how it runs before i go screwing with the CAS.
Annoyingly, a barb i removed on the inlet manifold to the water pump decided to crumble and break, so i couldn't put it back together today anyway, i'll get one tomorrow.
EldarO, i was intending on getting a corolla shitter for a daily, but no such luck. Came to the crunch and this car was good value, and i needed a way of getting around ASAP. Beggars can't be choosers. And don't be forgetting that this fine beast was also sold by Toyota![]()
KE20 CA18DET / RN25 12R / IS200 1G / NA MX5 B6
these ALWAYS break. dont worry you arent alone.Originally Posted by Bananaman
be careful with the CAS. it has to be lined up with a special tool. if you dont get it right, the balancer will hit it. you will then destroy both the CAS and the teeth on the balancer
Originally Posted by The Witzl
Hey Bardin, sorry I didn't get back to you sooner. This is the first chance I've had to get on here this weekend. How did you go with it?
Brad
Old Corollas never die...
My KE30
Updated 15/7/2007............ yes, I need to pull my finger out.
Well, you can see how things went above - further to that, today i finished it off, got the new plastic barb and put it back together.
I finally checked the idle air control thing / cold start valve, whatever you want to call it. It looks to be like an electromagnet with a threaded rod that goes into it, i assume that what occurs is that when switch the electromagnet pulls on said rod, letting air in/out or whatever.
Now, this threaded rod doesn't actually bolt in to anything, as if the thread in the unit is stripped. This to me sounds like the cause of all my starting woes, is my assumption that this does need to bolt in correct? I'll grab a new one tomorrow if so..
Cheers again fellas![]()
KE20 CA18DET / RN25 12R / IS200 1G / NA MX5 B6
it should have a pointed end. its not supposed to screw into anything. the motor pushes and pulls the "bolt" in and out to vary the amount of air that goes around the throttle butterfly.
usually these get all clogged up and this causes your stalling woes. clean the hole and the plunger. dont pull the IAC apart tho, it will be buggered then!
Originally Posted by The Witzl
There doesnt appear to be any clogging, i did spray all in the hole etc with carby cleaner, don't know how much effect it had though.
It has a pointed end like you say, which is a plunger if you will. The other end is threaded, and goes into the body of the IAC unit. Nothing can be taken apart beyond this. It doesn't hold itself together at all, the plunger and spring are free to fall off / move about willy nilly. It does make sense i suppose that it can't be bolted in as such, because then part of the IAC itself would have to do the moving. Why have it threaded to start with then is the question?
I'd take a pic of it, but my ex has ownership of our camera now :/
KE20 CA18DET / RN25 12R / IS200 1G / NA MX5 B6
if it falls out and comes apart then its ROOTED! hehe
it should all stay as one piece, if you can wiggle the plunger or it totally seperates from the body, then its no good. you need another one......not worth repairing it.
Originally Posted by The Witzl
lol yes i figured that there was something not right, so my original thinking with the thread is correct then?
I'll get one tomorrow anyway, or at least look at oneThe plunger definitely isn't remotely attached to the body of the IAC.
Least its something this obvious, i'd be more worried if it WASN'T rooted![]()
KE20 CA18DET / RN25 12R / IS200 1G / NA MX5 B6
Well, we have a victory!
I got a replacement IAC motor today from pick and pay (screw paying $80 brand new, its not a sensor, it either works or it doesn't!). Put it all back together and took it for a hoon (first time i've run it since changing any sensors), it ran well - it did hesitate once, but did not stall. It now idles where it should, at 8-900rpm ish, not at 1500 like it used to, and seems alot smoother.
I checked the codes when i got back, and got a 12. Thankfully, this is the code for "good system, no codes".
I'll fire it up again later and see how it starts (without carby cleaner and shit in there) - but in any case, i'm pretty happy. Thanks for the help lads![]()
KE20 CA18DET / RN25 12R / IS200 1G / NA MX5 B6
no worries mate. good to hear you got it going good.
if you have anymore woes with the beast, lemme know. i have the "fantastic opportunity" of working on holdens everyday....so i should be able to help!
Originally Posted by The Witzl
Well, i'm afraid theres no improvement in the starting dramas still, i've tried 2 different IAC valves, so i really don't think its the cause. I've swapped ECU's as well to rule that out.
KE20 CA18DET / RN25 12R / IS200 1G / NA MX5 B6
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