Ebay Turbo Oil Drain Q: How to install oil pan bung?

[ballpencil]

This is the turbo oil line kit you can easily find on Ebay


The feed, drain flange and NPT adapter go to the turbo and this is what i'm left with which made me think this is supposed to be the bung that goes to the oil pan.


It's aluminum and welding it to a steel pan doesn't sound like a good idea. It's threaded and would accept a nut so that it can be clamped to the pan but then i'd be left with very little thread for the drain line fitting (blue part shown on pic above).. and major oil leak.

Interwebz research came up with an option of JB-Welding it to the pan which also doesn't sound good. I don't know if it will hold.

1. Am i correct to think that is the oil pan bung?
2. If yes, how do you install it on the pan? Seems like JB Weld is the only way to do it.
3. If not, what is that thing?

Pics of drain bung on 4A-GE pan would be great.

[beerhead]

Try and get a brass or mild steel copy and braze it onto the sump. If you can get hold of a 4AGE bigport sump it'll have a factory oil drain tapped in.

[ballpencil]

thank you. yes i'm aware of that option. i just don't get it why don't they include the proper bung with the kit. most, if not all, of these kits don't include it. that's why i'm asking if the bung shown has any "intended" way of being correctly installed on the pan that i'm not aware of.

[beerhead]

Yeah I guess they intend you to use metal mend or some other metal glue. Not really the best, but there was someone on the club with injectors that had there bosses glued on with metal mend and it lasted for years, so go figure?

[litldv8]

pirtek or enzed would be the go for a similar item that you could braze on.

i was at pirtek yesterday but out the front was a 2010 bmw m3 coupe with "PIRTEK" plates .
i think i payed this months lease payment.
neil

[allencr]

It's intended to be welded to an aluminum pan/sump.
Epoxys are available that are very strong & resist oil & heat and would work very well when the surface area is large & prepped.
I would not use an epoxy.
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Also, these 'kit' things for turbos, big brakes, suspension, engine rebuild, carburetors & aero body stuff are more about salesmanship then workmanship, they are never 100% complete or plug & play.

[beerhead]

More detail on my last post - there's a member on here with a 1FZ landcruiser motor in a 2 door crown with glued on injector bosses making close to 1000hp. He ran over 20PSI of boost and never lost seal in over 2 years of drag runs, before reading what he did, I would have agreed with you that it's a no-no. But I like when people prove me wrong and glued on injectors with 20psi of pressure behind them didn't fall off, so at atmospheric pressure, a sump return bung will probably outlast your bearings a couple of times over. You ever see the modern marvels doco on Peterbilt trucks? The bodies are entirely glued together!

[Supra967]

Make an aluminium flange, weld the fitting to the flange and bolt the flange to the sump ($5 for scrap ally). If the sump isn't flat enough to take a flange weld a steel plate to pan first (could also drill and tap the plate if big enough).

I'd just be going through the speed flow stuff for a better fitting. Something straight like that would be worth $20??

[gloze]

ive got a couple of questions mate? are u going to take the oil pan off?? if so just get the same fitting in plain steel {pirtek will have them on the shelf and they are like 5 bucks} and just tig,braze it in.....if the sump is alloy it will be more than likely thick enough to drill and tap a 1/2" BSPF -10 fitting into it and they are also available from pirtek they have a rubber oring seal on them too so they will stop leaks aswell.......you can also get one that has a thread on the sump side that u can drill right through and then put a nut on the inside and still have your dash fitting on the outside......either of those 3 ways would work i would prefer to see you weld it on and not have the risk of failure!!!!!!

id say in all the one u have left over is for welding in and the one that has the thread is the taper on for drilling and tapping in if the pan is thick enough to do it they have just given u a couple of options...and if its a steel pan well u will have to get one of theose 2 fittings from pirtek to fit into your pan...

and most of all take the sump off to do it dont run the risk of swarf and crap getting into your sump by not removing it...

a cheap kit done cheaply is no good but a cheap kit done properly will be a hell of a lot better!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[ballpencil]

ive got a couple of questions mate? are u going to take the oil pan off?? if so just get the same fitting in plain steel {pirtek will have them on the shelf and they are like 5 bucks} and just tig,braze it in.....if the sump is alloy it will be more than likely thick enough to drill and tap a 1/2" BSPF -10 fitting into it and they are also available from pirtek they have a rubber oring seal on them too so they will stop leaks aswell.......you can also get one that has a thread on the sump side that u can drill right through and then put a nut on the inside and still have your dash fitting on the outside......either of those 3 ways would work i would prefer to see you weld it on and not have the risk of failure!!!!!!

id say in all the one u have left over is for welding in and the one that has the thread is the taper on for drilling and tapping in if the pan is thick enough to do it they have just given u a couple of options...and if its a steel pan well u will have to get one of theose 2 fittings from pirtek to fit into your pan...

thanks guys.. you're very helpful.

Yes, i'm taking the pan off. I have to get 4A-GZE pistons in anyway. I'm in Indonesia so getting stuff from Pirtek isn't cost efficiennt. I visited a local hardware store and found an air compressor hose fitting having thread and nut so it's no problem clamping to the pan like below (sorry couldn't find better resolution).



I couldn't, however, find the correct size. One that i got was 1/2 inch size. Drain lines should be 5/8 right? That's about 3mm bigger. Not sure if 1/2 inch will flow the oil quick enough. However, seeing that it's much bigger than the oil restrictor hole on the feed line (about 2mm in diameter), i think it should be.

beerhead, i think injector boss and oil drain bung can't be treated the same. injector boss won't see any torque (from fastening the blue nut?) so i'm a bit worried still about using metal glue. not to mention the working temperature?

[gloze]

1/2" will be fine for oil drain u just have to make sure when u put it in its going to be above the oil level in the pan or it wont drain propely as its only draining under the weight of the oil and not pressureized it needs to have unrestricted flow back to the pan....

DO NOT USE METAL MEND OR THE LIKES IT WILL CRACK AND LEAK.......

please if u have the pan off get it brazed in or drill and tap a thread it will last forever..

[ballpencil]

please if u have the pan off get it brazed in or drill and tap a thread it will last forever..

plan: drill the pan, slide the air hose fitting in, clamp it with the matching nut to the pan, braze them.
then the braided drain line hose is clamped to the air hose fitting, so the blue fitting shown on my first pic is no longer used.

doing it this way means that i'm reducing the inner diameter of the braided line at the air hose fitting joint. is this ok?

[gloze]

if the braided line is -10 it will be fine mate

also i wouldnt worry bout the nut if your going to braze it in...

cheers

[beano]

This is the turbo oil line kit you can easily find on Ebay


The feed, drain flange and NPT adapter go to the turbo and this is what i'm left with which made me think this is supposed to be the bung that goes to the oil pan.


It's aluminum and welding it to a steel pan doesn't sound like a good idea. It's threaded and would accept a nut so that it can be clamped to the pan but then i'd be left with very little thread for the drain line fitting (blue part shown on pic above).. and major oil leak.

Interwebz research came up with an option of JB-Welding it to the pan which also doesn't sound good. I don't know if it will hold.

1. Am i correct to think that is the oil pan bung?
2. If yes, how do you install it on the pan? Seems like JB Weld is the only way to do it.
3. If not, what is that thing?

Pics of drain bung on 4A-GE pan would be great.

Hey Ballpencil, I'm guessing you've worked this out already, as far as how to connect to the sump, that aluminium fitting is designed to be welded, so they assume you have an aluminium sump. You can buy other adaptor plates/flanges that you can bolt to your sump instead, a bit like the flange they supply to bolt to the turbo. You just put one of them on your sump instead.

I would like to get others feedback though on connecting the actual hose fittings, on the kits I've recieved from ebay, the red hose collars don't really fit over the braided hose. They're VERY tight. I've managed to get one red collar over the braid without wrecking it, but then it was really really hard to get the collar to screw onto the blue fitting. Is it just this style of fitting is hard to use? I'm thinking being a chinese derived product or attempted copy, the tolerances might be out and either the red collar ID is too small, or the hose supplied OD is slightly too big, meaning the red collar is either a real tight fit, or too tight to get on in the first place.

[convertableTA23]

From my experinces we just measure up the lengths we need at work and get the local hydraulic shop to make the lines up for us, crimped on ends that can't come loose and quality hose that takes forever to go hard and brittle, and this is on trucks mostly, so reliability is the most important thing. I bloke i used to know lost his engine due to a genuine earls fitting failure spewing oil out and loosing all oil pressure. The sleve nut cracked and the hose came out under pressure. I just don't like them from that story onwards.

When you cut the hose you put one layer of masking tape over the line right? Then cut through the masking tape and slipped the sleve nut over with the masked tape still on? Then pushed the fitting in the hose bfore finally removing the tape just before tightening the sleve nut. If you have a problem doing it that way i would guess the fittings are shit or the hose is shit.