Tried to play with tps but lower screw is poked, I'll work on that at some stage. Anymore ideas?
Is the fuel pump running after the car starts?
Best way is to check the Fp terminal on the service connector, you will mesure 12V.
Tried to play with tps but lower screw is poked, I'll work on that at some stage. Anymore ideas?
still sounds like a dizzy/ignitor problem
Seems like that to me also. Or could be an ecu problem if the ecu we tried was also a dud, same goes for igniter. How do I check if the igniter is sending it's signal to the ecu?
really only way you can do that is with an oscilliscope im sure.. you checked all the pins on the plugs made sure one pin hasnt accidentally backed itself out of a plug?
I've checked all plugs/connections and they seem fine, I checked the loom and seems completely undamaged so for now i'm assuming it's ok. I'm thinking of buying a complete conversion/car with a blown engine or something along those lines and swapping every last sensor over. Problem is 1ggte's are fairly non existent where I am so how interchangeable would the sensors and meters, ignitor etc be on a 1gge? Obviously computer loom and injectors are of no use but I've pretty much eliminated those as the problem anyway.
Have you adjusted/checked the IDL pin on the throttle position sensor yet like I've suggested 3 times???
It might not be the problem, but (on a Gen3 1G at least) it will give you these EXACT syptoms if you don't get an IDL signal to the ECU.
Sorry, I didn't mean to ignore your advise. I'm planning on it but since I'll have to remove the throttle body and associated shit to get to the flogged out screw i've been trying other crap first
Easy, just check for ground on the idl input to the ecu. Should be grounded when throttle us closed, not grounded when throttle is open.
Checked tps and it's earthed when closed, and adjusted tps with no change. Pulled off air filter and tried playing with afm flap while cranking and got nothing. Also pulled cover off afm and cleaned it but still nothing. Also it's no longer firing up when first cranked so i'm assuming the cold start injector is no longer working, no idea what caused this though, as it had been sitting untouched for a few weeks
Not a fuel problem, Has required amount of fuel pressure when it's supposed to. Fuel pump is turned on manually with a switch and works perfectly 100% of the time.
Problem now sorted. Broken ignitor wire. Thanks for your help guys
Interesting there were no error codes, the below faults shut down the pules.
Code 3 No signal from ignitor four times in succession. Ignition circuit (IGf ECU connection).
Code 14 No IGF signal to ECU for 4 consecutive IGT signal during engine running
If you dont have spark too then check your cam angle sensors.
If you do have spark check wirring.
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