1ggte no injector pulse

[low gx]

Hey guys first post so sorry if it's not up to scratch.
I pulled my running 1ggte (think it's gen2) from the car to fix a leak and when i reinstalled it (i think) i lost the pulse to the injectors. It will start and then die immediatly, If I keep cranking it will try to start. I've tried another ecu and coil and have power to both injector wires when the key is turned on. I've taken it to a sparky and they confirmed it has no injector pulse and aren't bringing up any error codes. I'm not too experienced with electrical problems this intense so even just some simple advise on what to check would be awesome

Thanks

[auto351]

have you got power to the injectors?
Is the air flow meter plugged in?

[pandaah]

ignitor or dizzy problems?.. on the 1g theres a cam and crank trigger inside the dizzy.... does it have spark?

[low gx]

Definatly has spark and power to the injectors (I took the plug off and it had power at both pins with key turned on. No power with key off) and i'm 110% sure everything is plugged in

[Grant]

Since the engine was running it's unlikely to be a component failure. The engine runs briefly probably because the cold start injector is giving an initial squirt however it could also be a short pulse of the injectors before they shut down. If this were the case though you would have a fault code. If you want to confirm the engine runs ok then apply power and earth to the cold start injector and it should run.

How are you checking the fault codes? Also check all your earth connections from the harness as one loose or missing earth can drop injector pulse. The earth under the manifold is an easy one to forget. Check to make sure all the plug pins are where they should be i.e. no pins have pushed back into the plug and therefore not making contact. This often happens with the air flow meter plug.

[low gx]

I had a sparky check the fault codes (dash warning light doesn't work). Which two terminals do I bridge to check? and I'm assuming I can bridge them with a test light to check. Can't hurt to check for codes myself. I'll go over the plugs again and make sure no wires have benn pulled out. Also all earths are on and have a good metal surface. Is the cold start injector a 7th injector or is it one of the 6 that i can add power to make it run?
Thanks for your help so far guys, I'm not gonna let this bitch defeat me

[auto351]

Not sure if you have seen these service manual they have a very good fault finding section


http://rapidshare.com/files/34710861...hanical_2_.pdf

http://rapidshare.com/files/34710717...cations_2_.pdf

Manuel

[Grant]

In the engine bay you will find the diagnostic box (grey, about 3cm x 4cm). Sometimes it's on the firewall, sometimes on the guard or the engine itself but it is there. Open it up and bridge T1 and E1. Connect one end of a test light probe to 12V and the other end stick into the socket W. Switch on the ignition and the light will flash. Normal code is on-off-on-off etc but a fault code will be for example on-off-on (pause) on-off (code 21). If there is a code, you can check it against those listed on the net.

The cold start injector is located under the manifold. You'll need to get another injector plug and as much wire as you can cut from an old harness (common to many Toyota's), plug it in and connect it to 12 volt. You might be able to get a set of aligator clips on it but the position makes it difficult.

[low gx]

No T1 terminal but i'm assuming it's T? Also no W terminal


Left to right-
Fp, *, E1, Ox, *, *,
Cco, T, * E2, *,
+B, Vf, *, *, Tem, Ect,

1g-

[auto351]

Download the service manuals



Its been a while since I download the manuals if the above link is not working , I can Email them across.

[pandaah]

yeh dude its te1 and e1... and use abit of wire or paperclip not a test lamp.. maybe its a problem with ecu?.. injector drivers are stuffed, cos usually if injector pulse is non existant its because theres no spark the ecu will shut down fuel so it doesnt flood..

[low gx]

Shouldn't be the ecu, mine was checked and also tried a different ecu. Had a decent look and there isn't even a engine warning light on the dash. Where can I plug in a test light after bridging T and E1?

[timbosaurus]

check one thing first... the adjustment on the TPS.

There is actually a idle switch on the TPS to the ECU that indicates the throttle is closed, and if it's out of adjustment and doesnt actually indicate it's closed, your engine will exhibit similar symptoms.

Use a multimeter to check continuity between pins 1 & 2 on the TPS, but if you don't have one of them you may have be able to undo two screws and rotate the bloack TPS sensors either way and see if it helps.

Cheers,
Timbo

[low gx]

Ok I pulled the codes as Grant instructed but I keep getting one slow flash followed by endless fast flashing without pausing. From what i've read on the net it's telling me everything is fine. If it's not getting any trouble codes maybe this narrows down whats going on?

[timbosaurus]

Did u play with the tps adjustment?