Megasquirt users thread to discuss all things Squirty

**thechuckster** · 23-12-2011, 06:59 PM

note: one thing you can't get with an EDIS system is spark-cut. Rules out fancy stuff like launch/traction control, anti-lag, rotational idle, aggressive rev-limit, etc. that use either massive spark retard or spark cut.

**drew22** · 23-12-2011, 08:14 PM

Most MS builds only have one high current driver setup for ignition. But on the flip side there are plenty of logic level drivers that can drive igniters no probs.

**drew22** · 24-12-2011, 10:45 AM

Just got a quick of the vid of the weapon running

**TTV8RA23** · 29-12-2011, 06:49 PM

Hey guys looking at buying a MS v2.2 ms1 (site im buying it fromv2.2 ms1 Megasquirt ecu | Trade Me) to run an 18rgte, i had searched on here and could not find too much info about MS's on 18r. Im a cheat and looking at buying one already assembled. Im going to buy an Innovate LC1 wide band o2 sensor as well so it can self tune and the guy who builds them tells me it needs a Using Bosch BIP373 Ignition Modules with Megasquirt to run the coil. Is there anything else you guys that are in the know could give me a heads up about?? It all sounds good to me and the 18rgeu is a pretty basic motor so im thinking it wont have to many issues running it. I have read testimonials from guys saying they upgraded to the v3 and could not notice any difference in general drivability just the extra features etc were good for some guys. This basic one is all i think i need. But in saying that i dont know squat about MS so would like to hear what you guys think and whether this is a good idea and what other set up hurdles i might come across(i have read about grinding off notches on dizi etc i dont know if this will apply to me or not). Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated.
Cheers
Simon
P.S if this goes as well as some of the testimonials i have read i will seriously look into the snazzy version of an MS f=to run my twin turbo 1gzfe.

**drew22** · 29-12-2011, 07:09 PM

Going prebuilt is the way to go, undertaking a ms build as your first electronic project would be a real task.

I would recommend a version 3 pcb so you can upgrade in the future. Depending on the coil driver you have, you may not need the bosch driver.

**TTV8RA23** · 29-12-2011, 07:21 PM

Yeah i thought pre built was a good idea i did electronics at high school 10yrs ago so im not a complete ammature but for the $200 extra to buy it complete rather than kitset i think its well worth it.
I will not be upgrading it. It will be my daily for the next year or so running low boost then it will be sold. I cant really justify the extra couple hundred dollars for extras i cant see myself using?? I dont want to ignore the first bit of advice i get but i wont be upgrading it so is this still necessary?? I have no idea what coil driver i have. The dude building it will sort all that out its only $20 extra to to get bosch driver put in so i dont think he would be purposely ripping me off for that small a gain?? Hoipefully he knows what he is doing!
Cheers
Simon

**WDE_BDY** · 29-12-2011, 07:28 PM

Skip the MS1 from those guys, at least get an MS-II from DIY Autotune, just wait for one of their sales. Go for a V3 or above board as well. If you want simple ignition grab an EDIS setup, got mine for just over $100NZ. Pretty sure there were a few at Pick a Part in Auckland on Monday, can look to grab one for you in mid January and then you just need a 36-1 trigger wheel.

Callum

**TTV8RA23** · 29-12-2011, 07:50 PM

Thats gonna cost about $700 insted of 470 though. What do i need this extra business for? What do i need EDIS for? Its only got one coil. Maybe PM me with alot more detailed explanation. There is nothing wrong with the ignition i dont think, its the fuel side of things that i want to modify, get rid of AFM etc. Im not asking these questions to be rude i just dont know what i need to spend the extra money on when it sounds like MS1 will do the trick?
Cheers
Simon

**WDE_BDY** · 29-12-2011, 08:18 PM

To buy the same spec out of the US will be sub $400 (so no GST). The research I did indicated MS isn't that happy with the normal Toyota electronic dizzy signal but that could be wrong. Can do some more research and have a chat next time I come past, you will also want a variable TPS on the trottle body too to make tuning easier.

Callum

**TTV8RA23** · 29-12-2011, 08:29 PM

Is that on the DIY auto tune site? I am looking at it now. Are those prices not in american dollars? I think i see why MS2 is a good idea too then i can control ignition retardation (is that even a word?) right? Hopefully it will all be going next time you come past. Might be easier to just setup NA for now with factory ECU etc. Get it going see how it goes then maybe turbo it later? But if like you say i can get one for that price then ill be keen. Would be rude not to turbo it really with how easy it will be to do and the turbo sitting there just waiting to be bolted to something. Just the cost etc of ECU is whats worrying me at the moment with funds quite low and wanting to spend them on my real car! Would just mount TPS off 1uz or something on there?
Cheers
Simon

**WDE_BDY** · 29-12-2011, 08:36 PM

$252US plus freight, they also seem to do regular discount deals through Facebook.
MegaSquirt-I Programmable EFI System PCB2.2 - Assembled Unit DIYAutoTune.com
I would get it running NA for now and worry about the turbo later.

Callum

**thechuckster** · 29-12-2011, 09:17 PM

- stick with the factory dizzi, lock the advance/retard plate in it, there's your 4 tooth trigger done

- use the factory ignitor or just use the IGBT that comes with an MS2 or higher ECU - the manuals cover most wiring options

- any TPS will do as long as it's variable resistance (some of the older TPS units are little more than a an IDLE and WOT switch)

A few folks on here have already MS'd their 18RGs so ask around for some timing and VE fuel maps (they're not linked to injector size making sharing a shiteload easier than other ECUs). I have an old 18RG map somewhere from 18RG_chris (i think, lives in tassie, has an RA40 that used to be 18RG before converting to 1GGTE) if you get stuck.

As mentioned 265943 times in the interwebs, read the MS EFI manual for your ECU then re-read it several more times. Also download the tuning software(s) and tinker with them. Familiarity with the manual and software will make your life a lot easier.

Unless you want to rebuild the motor into something angry and high-boost, you can stick with the factory dizzi/trigger wheel but as Callum suggests, get it running NA then start to tinker with it.

**TTV8RA23** · 29-12-2011, 10:01 PM

Thanks Chuckster thats the sort of answer im after. No i will not be touching the internals on the motor so will be running 12psi full whack. Looking into a ms2 with v3 in it now. I had a heap of money set a side for a link ECU for the big car but the more i read into these MS's there is no reason why (with a few mods) i wouldnt be able to run the V12 on one also and if this is the case then i will spend said money on a decent MS2 for 18rgteu and a specced up MS3 for the v12 and still probably have change left over. Lots more thinking and research to do i think.
Cheers
Simon

**nuk1ear** · 04-01-2012, 02:24 AM

wooo check it. Finished my MS3+MSX and peak+hold injector driver wireharness. Everything works, confirmed all COP and injectors, sensors etc. Couple of things left to tidy up but thats all

IMG_0495 by nuk1ear

IMG_0494 by nuk1ear

IMG_0492 by nuk1ear

IMG_0431 by nuk1ear