Swap for a 2TG or 18RG would be by far the cheapest way to get max power if you want to stay era specific.
Otherwsie theres any number of options like carb's cam's headwork etc but on a 2T its kind of a waste find a twincam.
Hi,
Just wondering if anyone knew of the easiest / cheapest mods which can be done to a 2T to get the biggest performance gains and what sort of things are possible performance wise with a 2T.
The only thing i have currently are extractors.
Cheers
Swap for a 2TG or 18RG would be by far the cheapest way to get max power if you want to stay era specific.
Otherwsie theres any number of options like carb's cam's headwork etc but on a 2T its kind of a waste find a twincam.
Wish I had a F#%ken awesome toyota.. saving for the goodness now.... stay tuned....
Hi,
Used to be able to buy twin carb manifolds for the 2T engine on eBay, so check there. Get yourself twin downdraught carbs for the manifold. Put in higher compression pistons, and run a more aggressive cam. Put on a nice set of extractors.
Those are the most obvious mods that will get your 2T running close enough to a stock 2T-G. Stock 2T is 102hp and the stock 2T-G is about 120-124hp. The stock 2T-B is 110hp (which has the twin carbs and higher compression pistons), so with a little extra work you may be able to get 100-120hp out of your 2T.
It dependa upon how deep your pockets are. Like anything to do with cars and engines, doing things on a tight budget means you need to lower your expectations in performance and/or time to get completed.
seeyuzz
river
The thinking man's clown and the drinking woman's sex symbol
RA25GT - There is no substitute | 18R-G - Toyota's Dependable Masterpiece
Toymods Car Club Treasurer, assistant Historic Plate Registrar & Forums Admin
Welcome to the world of compromise. As river said how deep are the pockets.
Have a search of the Tech threads and the Dyno thread for the xT engines to give you an idea of what we have done before and the results.
Make sure the basics are in very good order, ignition system, plug leads, dizzy is good and timed correctly, valve clearance is in spec and the motor is in a generally clean condition with no leaks. Make it as reliable as you can and then start thinking of what to spend money on. As we have all found out the hard way is that we buy things to make the motor look or sound or go better and the basics start to wear you down. Always fiddling because it wont start or the battery keeps going flat or the wires fall off.
As for bolt on changes. Extractors are a good start.
A single sidedraught manifold and 40mm carb will get you some better response and be a basis for further mods to about 6500rpm.
The 2T-B dual downdraughts are good for the same. Rare but different. I ran a detailed set for a while with a mild cam and loved them.
A dual 40mm set up is good for 7500-8000 and still be drivable with appropriate mods and can be tuned for a stock engine and be ready for further engine mods.
Most other work involves pulling things major off the motor and that can lead to a lot of money and time if the engine has already done a few long k's.
Cam can be changed without head removal but only if you know the history of the motor. Lifters maybe worn and you cannot see them.
Inner valve springs can a be added without pulling the head off and a must for any build over 6500rpm.
Flywheel can be changed for a light weight one or professionally machined to make it lighter. This is one area that a lot of gain can be made for a relative small cost.
Then there is oversize pistons and all that other bottom end stuff to go with it.
If the engine is coming out and you have time then do a lot at once. And have fun.
Regards
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