yeah thats the problem it will run then just cut off. but if I jump it to 12volts it will run fine no problems. so what you are saying if TX was to get stuck comp would still be working though?
Nothing i can think off but that was just an example, but will alter vent temps as ther is no heat load sensed.
The tx will normally run fine for about 10 mins or so, depending on how much work the a/c has to do, they normally stick when inside temps are right down and the tx is almost shut. Its stick there but wont open back up so the car start to get warmer and warmer. The system needs to be shut down and wait and it normally opens back up after awhile and will work again.
Once again doesnt explain why you comp cuts out, but that could be another fault entirely or just barking up the wrong tree altogether.
Last edited by matty12; 03-01-2011 at 08:44 PM.
yeah thats the problem it will run then just cut off. but if I jump it to 12volts it will run fine no problems. so what you are saying if TX was to get stuck comp would still be working though?
1992 - JZA70 STOCK - SOLD
Yep, im not familur with the system, it could have a low pressure switch in it because the low side can be sucked into a vacuum dropping it out but i doubt thats the case.
Its a real hard to fault find something like that over the net, hell its ever had sometimes to fault find even when the vehicle is right there in front of u.
lol well it gets interesting!! drove from hose to work today about 15mins in it turned off then what I did I gunned it in 3rd up to 60 high revs about 4500rpm and the comp kicked back in and was fine untill I got to work WTF??!!%@#%@%^@^)%^@%^%^@)%^@@%^%
1992 - JZA70 STOCK - SOLD
Hi Mate,
I hope you had a happy new year despite the drama's with teh AC.
My first thought was that you have a combination of 2 problems: 1 that your system is over gassed, and 2 your FMIC is blocking a lot of the air that was ment to be flowing through your condensor.
Hence your AC kicking in at 140 kmh, due to the extra air flow. But it now seems like you have an intermitant electrical problem, it the fault is occuring under different loads e.g. different speeds, amount of accelleration, and different ambient conditions. BTW how did you go with sticking the 12V fan in? No difference im guessing? And
My reccomendation to save you a lot of time and heartache is to bite the bullet - and take it to a respectabile AC shop and get them to diagnose the problem and give you a written quote. Then fork out the $$$, and with this approach at least you get a warranty, something I sure your lecky couldnt give you
Just my opinion. As Matty12 said sometimes finding the problem even when it is right in front of you car be a nightmare. Let us know how you go
Goodluck.
ive check all electrical parts. tested amplifier checked continuity for all wires this also happend yesterday afternoon when it was damm hot revved up and it ran fine all the way home and this morning for the 1st time I started the car and didnt have to "kick start" the compressor. another thing is my ABS is also working fine now. I can only guess due to using the incorrect loom with the 1JZ amplifier as few months ago I had issues when I plugged in my amplifier I lost REVS on the dash went to 0 didnt get a chance to add a fan will try tommorow
1992 - JZA70 STOCK - SOLD
Yeah pressure sensor got tested so did the sun sensor near top of dash. It would seem my issue has gone away went for a spin just then and it kicked into life and its actually cycling on and off now! before it would run nonstop before dying funny thing is my ABS has also come good. wierd will be keeping an eye on it over the next couple days. thanks for all your help guys will keep yas posted!
1992 - JZA70 STOCK - SOLD
VERY INTERESTING!
Hmmn sounds like your system was over gassed and has slowly been leaking refrigerant to a point where the system can run satisfactorly e.g. not cutting out on high temp/pressure. Hope thats not the case though! BTW can you see the "sight glass" on your filter/drier? There should be a spot where you can see the refrigerant moving through. Have a look at it now that the system is running good. If your AC starts to play up make sure the sight glass hasnt changed e.g. their is still liquid refrigerant in your system = no leak.
OR You had an intermitant electrical problem (bad earth/power or dry solder joints)
Hopefully this issue dosent rear its ugly head again.
Best of luck!
Ryan
Last edited by Rhyno; 04-01-2011 at 04:30 PM.
I hope it doesnt reappear to.Well there is no leaks as he put that UV dye in it and I searched with a UV light no leaks and there is liquied in sight glass also to add its actually colder!! I tested it with a thermo and currently at 2 Deg lol
1992 - JZA70 STOCK - SOLD
Thats good there is no dye showing up... did you check the evap? An easy (lazy) way to check is just to see if the water coming out is glowing...
So your saying its getting colder? Is the ambient conditions changing where you are? e.g. is the wheather getting colder?
Very curious...
Could be that the system was not coping well at high temperatures, constantly reaching high pressure cutout, and now that the weather has cooled down you are probably experiencing it less. But your electrician friend said the pressures are ok, unless ofcourse the TXV begins playing up at a certain time making pressures go unstable intermittently.
Try running the A/C On Fresh and Max Fan for a few days, and see if the problem comes on less.
Faulty Pressure Switches by any chance? I've got some spares.
problem found Dud hydrofan temp sensor not allowing fan to blow high when it got hot with aircon on. aircon has been working fine since the 4th woot!
1992 - JZA70 STOCK - SOLD
Glad to hear to mate!
Sounded like you had a condensing problem from the start.
Happy days![]()
And I thought the electrician said the pressures were fine?
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