5sfe torque specs

[StuC]

hey all. Im doing a rear main and clutch on a mates camry next week and have misplaced my workshop manual. I need to know the torque specs for the rear main seal housing, the flywheel to crank bolts and the pressure plate bolts.

Also are the CV castelated nuts a 32mm nut? Is there a recommended torque for these as well?
Its been a while since working on my celica....

Cheers in advance,
Stu

[eeeyan]

hand tight with a drop of loctite then when it breaks you've got an excuse to change the car.

Just Kiddin Stu i hope someone comes along with the answer for you shortly in the mean time...

also check this out dude...

TorkSpec Website

Great little site I didnt see the rear main there but i only looked quickly

[beerhead]

CV nut's are 30mm, try and get a 6 point socket, they're really tight. You should be able to do the rear main seal without removing the housing, I've done it 3 times like this with a bent coat hanger.

98nm on the flywheel (needs loctite)
20nm on the cover bolts
186nm on the CV nut

Flywheel installation - Might be worth a quick read.

Have Fun!

[MWP]

Would be the same as 3S's i would imagine... in which case:
http://gt4.mwp.id.au

[StuC]

Thanks guys. I've done 100s of clutch jobs just cant remember 5/3s. Its been about 3 years since my last. Beerhead - i always remove the rear plate just in case - its easier and means i dont have to run to toyota if i stuff it up.
Locktite is a must for flywheel for sure.
Rear main retainer is 10Nm for those that are interested
Thanks again

[beerhead]

OK, stuffing the most exxy seal on the motor would suck, but I just turn the old seal upside down and use it to push the seal in by hand and finish with a soft touch with a hammer, hasn't failed me in the past and I'm lazy.

[eeeyan]

As long as you only hit the races of a bearing on its "fitting" race it should be ok provided you keep it perpendicular to either the shaft its going on (hit inner race a piece of pipe over the shaft but not bigger than inner bearing race usually does the trick) or the "socket" its going into (hit outer race only, old bearing can usually work to protect new one as a punch down tool)

This is the way i did it for years on big pumps and none of the bearing ever came back failed on me so it "should" work for motor bearing just as succesfully.

Main thing to remember is to protect the bearing from having any torque placed on the races.

Other things you can do is pop the bearing covers off and put extra lube/high speed high heat grease into them and re-fit the bearing protectors.

Again each to their own i never had specific tools to put bearings in/on only to remove them.

[Dale]

^ rear main seal != bearing