The 18R-GTE reference manual ...

[RA35GT]

RA23GT,any more details mate? Do they all have to be the same bore/comp etc?

[o_man_ra23]

Kev and others, as already mentioned elsewhere, it isn't worth it to get multiples. What you save in discounts/freight etc, will be gobbled up and then some in import duty and GST. It is cheaper to buy the sets individually by over $100.

[RA23GT]

Fair enough Owen that makes sense.

[Steve M]

Surely it would be best to buy multiple sets and have them sent at different times, or to different locations. (Individually boxed).

I expect that the amount that you'd save would still be quite low. ($35 / set isn't really worth worrying about)

[o_man_ra23]

I can't imagine it to be worth the hassle. However, something to note is that the 18R-G pistons are around US$100 dearer than other similar motors to start with, so if more people purchase them, they may come down in price naturally due to the manufacturer getting back their R&D costs.

[Rhyno]

Hiya,

Been Reading Heaps and Heaps and... you get the Idea

I am currently in the process of building an 18RC bottom end/RG top end with a 500 Hp huffer hanging off the side.

Put me down for 2 of the oil kits please if it is still a possibility, after the "tweaks"

Looking good guys, cant wait to compare notes on the various projects

Kind Regards,

Rhyno

[YelloRolla]

Let me get the message straight; you're saying they may be dearer and it's not worth the hassle, but they may be cheaper and it could be worth it?

[river]

Hi,

Have you ordered those 700cc Sard injectors Jasey-babes? I took Pretty Boy's set.

He has this wild notion the Unicorn will be running soon and needs them.

seeyuzz
river

[o_man_ra23]

Let me get the message straight; you're saying they may be dearer and it's not worth the hassle, but they may be cheaper and it could be worth it?

No, I am saying that doing a group buy will be dearer and isn't worth the hassle. However, multiple people purchasing individually over a period of time should make them cheaper (as the R&D costs get paid off), which would be worth doing.

[machschnell]

will stay close to 2L
compression in the 8's to 1
piston cooling.... how about a good tune?
no. Autronic SM4
eleventy billion millibars

and how do you get the programming for the autronic ecu . I have one and no idea if it works or not . Do you know of someone who can check these

PLEEEEEASE tell me you know of someone ;-)

[The Witzl]

Speak to your local tuner who is capable of tuning an Autronic.

[machschnell]

Speak to your local tuner who is capable of tuning an Autronic.

Yeah cheers mate i cocked it up its not au tronics its a old fueltronics , so anyone want a shiny sinker ;-)

will get me a cheap megasquirt methinks unless there is anything out there that is better value.

Also anyone want to give me an idea on what a pair of solex type Ts are worth . just spent 500 on overhaul , so all clean and shiny and with all new gaskets and seals etc

[MnToyGuy]

Hey Guys. I just thougth I needed to keep you updated. I see Owen (a different one) is working on some hi cap oil pumps as well. He PM'd me and I told him I'd update here.

My project is not dead, but has been in a coma all summer. I've been gone every weekend except 3 since mid April for usually 3 day weekends. I've got a couple more left yet this year. Needless to say, this has not left time for car projects.

The guy/company doing this for me, has not been in touch since our company didn't have any machining for him to bid on. He did contact me a couple off weeks ago and asked about the pump. I need to pull together a bid package for him on some parts (for our business) and we're going to meet for lunch and revive the project.

Currently we have a prototype that spins fine in a loose housing, but when everything is torqued up, it binds. I need to get the assy back to him and he'll revise the geometry and make another proto. At that point, we are still looking for a test engine. We'll verify it does pump on the bench first, but then need a tester.

I apologize for the delay. I've been clear from the beginning that this will not happen quickly, but I didn't think my schedule would be this nuts all summer. The machine shop is also doing this in spare/down time in order to keep the cost down. Otherwise we'd have kits already, but they'd be $500+ ea.

All that said, I Owen finds a solution as well. It might happen quicker and be a cheaper option. I'd love to see pictures of his work.

[S. Lowlux]

Thanks ToyGuy.
Pictures are on page 163 of the tractor engine thread. I hope to have pictures of my sump & pickup posted this weekend.
Owen. (the different one).

[MnToyGuy]

Just thought I'd give an update. I met with my contact on the oil pumps a couple of weeks before x-mas and gave him to very large RFQ's for some of our business (along with the prototype), so I expect to hear something this month. We're thinking is was just length binding it as it only froze up when torqued down.

I understand many are frustrated with me, but I really had no choice with my schedule from April through end of November. I'll just keep plugging away. We do still need someone to test the prototype.

For now here's some ideas for you on how I solved a few issues. Not strictly turbo related, but all part of the plan for required upgrades.

Wanted to go with the 5M water pump (bigger bearing and flows more). Supposedly the pump can be used stock with a 22R pulley. I measured against a brand new RC pump and pulley were misaligned by 4 mm. Pressed the flange off machined some out the back and pressed back on 4 mm deeper.



Damn, I was still off by some 2.5 mm on the engine.


Typically probably not a big deal, but I don't want to be chewing belts up. For some reason my crank pulley seems to sit closer to the block than stock, so I had to take some more out and go another 2.5 mm.

The back of my pulley has not been tampered with (stamps are clear). Any ideas wherre this 2.5 mm was lost or can someone take this measurment?




Techno Toy Tuning has a bolt on trigger wheel, but depending on your pulley configuration, you may have to get creative with your VR sensor position. I'll be adding 2 more mounting bolts and space it out 5.5 mm from the front of the pulley with locator pins and sleeves. then I don't have to worry about re-balancing anytime I remove it. That should also give a stronger signal moving it away from a ferrous mass.




And for those who can't find a genuine 18RGE TB can use other Toyota TB, but may need to change direction of the throw. Mine was from a 7M I think. I'b be happy to help anyone with the geometry, which is very important so 30% pedal throw doesn't translate to 66% butterfly opening.

It's a bitch getting the holes and all right as there is nothing to reference from.