The 18R-GTE reference manual ...

[JadeEstevez]

Will do, Cheers for the help everyone.

[The Witzl]

Unless you are a mental like me, then just get yourself an EFI manifold, set of forged pistons, head studs (ARP, etc), and do a balance/rebuild.... and you'll have yourself a rather stout motor capable of some pretty decent power.
Just look at River's motor - even with his baby little GT25 series turbo, he still makes over 150rwkW in an extremely reliable package.
If he had some balls and a bigger turbo, I believe his engine would be capable of near 200rwkw.

Frywheels... yeah the billet one i bought is nice, and wasnt too pricey at $462 including postage (Direct Clutch Services).

[JadeEstevez]

Unless you are a mental like me

What do you mean by that? Have you got a carby turbo set up or something? O__o
Would around 200rwkw still be streetable? =P I'd love that power!

[The Witzl]

No carbies here..... Just a stupid amount of spending.
About the only stock part left are the cams and valves, everything else is modified in some way.
Easily ove $5-6k in my engine alone, without any manifolds.

200rwkw is doable, but pushing the envelope I rekon with a build like I mentioned in my previous post. You would break things.

Bear in mind, its not just the engine you have to consider here. Gearbox, diff, brakes, suspension, fuel system, etc all need to be upgraded.

[JadeEstevez]

Ahh yeah... T series open wheeler diff wouldn't handle all that >___>

Would a W50 handle that power though?

[The Witzl]

Doubt it... youll want a w55/7/8

[JadeEstevez]

Damn... I have 2 W50's ;P Ahhwell... Just something else to add to the shopping list.

[JustenGT8]

My turbo 18rg had pretty well bang on 200rwkw (18psi). My formula at the time.
Stock crank, heads, valves, rods.
7.5:1 forgies
Mild cams
T04 turbo
Haltech fuel only ECU
Electronic dizzy with vac adv and boost retard.

This engine saw 8000rpm regularly and on a few occasions squirts to 30psi....which would often result in blown HG

Stock w50 too, which I never broke? 5th would be the weak point.

I've aso don a 2.2 with 12:1 turbo'd. Stock everything bar jag pistons. And a 2.4 turbo striker with stock 22r pistons which took 20psi at 9ish:1.

How I would build one now.
Stock crank, rods (linish but maybe not bother with shot peen)
eBay 20/22R pistons to give around 9 to 9.5:1
Stock head, cams etc
Flywheel
ARP head studs
ARP fasteners throughout bottom end
As decent a turbo as you can afford.

This setup will take 1bar all day every day and give you around 200rwkw.

Short block work with parts around $2.5-3k? Head rebuild maybe $1K

Depends how much you can do yourself, how well you know machinist etc.

Still need to add ECU, tune, shitloads of other bits. So not cheap.

A serious n/a build and or other turbo engine swap won't be too different?

Ps thinking on the run after quite a few beers

[JadeEstevez]

Hmm... So your method will work as a daily too?? I think realisticly and to keep my mind at ease I'd get forged rods just incase. Would I need forged pistons or just rods?

Also I thought that the W55, 57 and 58, were the same as the W50 just Aluminium case?

[river]

Hi,

Yeah yeah... mock my little baby turbo, but I love it. With approx 170rwkw, zero lag, and legendary reliability, I'll stick with my current set up. Massively street friendly and good fun when the throttle is opened for some spirited driving. Whether just ducking up the shops or cruising across half the country, she'll go forever.... and with air con

My next turbo 18R-G will be a bored/stroked big turbo (See Karl.. big turbo this time) angry bastard engine. Just got to find a car to put it in.

seeyuzz
river

[JadeEstevez]

I'd gladly donate my RA40 to chuck it in ;P

[river]

Hi,

Need forged pistonss.

The W58 is my preference because it has that longer 5th gear, which is good for cruising.

I still run the stock RA28 diff. It will last forever unless you dump the clutch for burn outs, or do single wheel spins.

All depends on how hard you are to your car.

seeyuzz
river

[JadeEstevez]

Hmm diff upgrade may be needed, I keep dumping the clutch and I'm only running an 18RC I can't help it haha.

[Gold28]

Just chiming in to give you an engineers perspective on linishing and shot peening rods.
These are both surface treatments to reduce fatigue on the rods. Con rods have the worst possible fatigue loading you could possibly throw at a part. Fully reversible load with many many cycles. What causes fatigue cracking is the tensile part of the load and stress concentrations where surface imperfections locally increase the stress as it tries to "flow" around the notch in the surface.
What linishing does is it polishes out these notches or stress concentrations, lowering the tensile stresses around these imperfections.
What shot peening is, is literally smashing the surface with lead (or other media) shot. This deforms the surface by a very small amount and actually builds in compressive stresses into the surface of the metal. These compressive stresses work against the damaging tensile stresses to reduce the stresses at the surface which is where cracks will usually start, normally at a surface defect. Having said that metals can get defects within the metal which can cause cracks and no amount of surface treatment will prevent that.

Now these are both good things and you could use either individually or together. Having said that most rod failures I have seen have either failed in compression due to poor tuning (knock) or have failed because of poor oiling, starving the big end bearings of oil and resulting in the big end welding itself to the crank.

So. what does it mean. Well if you want a bit of extra insurance then get them done but unless you really want to rev the ring out of it which will increase the stresses proportionally with engine speed, it's probably not necessary. Oh and an interesting note, the extra cylinder pressure from a turbo car doesn't increase the tensile load on the rod. The tensile load is only related to RPM. So River doesn't have to worry about fatiguing his rod...........

[JadeEstevez]

So River doesn't have to worry about fatiguing his rod...........

Tehe.

Ahem... If I go forged I'm definitely safe yes? ;P