4age crank pulley, OE or Alloy ?

[dangdang]

G'day guys,

Slowly fitting all the ancillaries to my gte bottom end but between all my parts I dont have a non chipped/undamaged/non worn dual row (power steer) crank pulley.

Question is should I use this opportunity to purchase an alloy jobbie? As the dollar is so good atm a techno toy tuning one can be had from the states for under $200 I believe. http://www.enjukuracing.com/techno-t...ge-p-8378.html

Or should I stick with the OE one (will be pricing tomorrow)

And is it advisable to use the OE pulley as it is rubber centred?

Cheers Toymodders

[oldeskewltoy]

it advisable to use the OE pulley as it is rubber centred?

elastomer damper is advised for anything that isn't an all out race engine - seeing tear downs every 800-1500 miles.


I purchased a stock OEM damper and had it machined down to a single row, and finally rebalanced.

[JP]

OE or Ross would be my choice.

[jondee86]

Or if you only need a single row pulley, get any OEM 4AGE pulley, and do as Oldeskewl says. You
can shave a few mm off the boss to get it to line up, as the FWD offset is slightly different from RWD.

Cheers... jondee86

[Bazda]

I would not go with a solid alloy pulley. These engines produce alot of harmonics and if your going to rev them even more!.
If your going for massive power or massive rpms then I would def get a Ross one as it will save you $ on bearings in the long run. Other than that the stock one will do.

[dangdang]

Thanks Bazda. Yes I have heard not much positive about using a solid in my setup.

How much do the ross one go for and who distributes them in oz?

I contacted the local Yota parts dept today and the only pulley they list is a AW11 one.

I know a rwd one is the wrong offset unless I have the back machined down from memory but will the aw11 fit ok? Adub fellas?

Just want to know before I order a non-returnable ex japan $355 part.

Failing that Ross may be the go as long as they are not as dear as poison.

[takai]

Or if you only need a single row pulley, get any OEM 4AGE pulley, and do as Oldeskewl says. You
can shave a few mm off the boss to get it to line up, as the FWD offset is slightly different from RWD.

Cheers... jondee86

FWD and RWD crank pulleys are the same. Its the water pump pulley that is different for the larger snout on the water pump which has an extra bearing to cope with the load of the fan.

[dangdang]

Cool so the AW11 one listed at my local Yota dealership will fit?

[Bazda]

The Ross ones in a group buy are

The Metal Jacket balancer price is $546.00 (double row balancer), the Race Series will be $597.00
Your purchase price for 2 (Race Series) would be $1074.60. or for 2 (Metal Jacket) 982.80 ........+ shipping

Race series are single row.

Thats in AUD an email I got from Ross a few months ago.
I tried to get more people to buy with me (at least 10) and the discount gets even better!

[jondee86]

Cool so the AW11 one listed at my local Yota dealership will fit?

No it won't... not if you are expecting it to replace a genuine RWD crank pulley. The AW ones are
stepped, but the diameter and offsets are different. FWD pulleys are not stepped (no biggie) but once
again the offsets (between the pulleys) are different.

Yes, the RWD and FWD water pump pulleys are different. Which suggests that the FWD and RWD
alternators and/or pulleys must be different also... although I have never checked them.

Before you buy an new AW pulley, take your old RWD pulley and match it to an AW one. AFAIK
there is no living match to the RWD pulley, it is totally unique among 4AGE pulleys. As said above,
if you only want the alt belt, it is easily done. But if you want the alt and A/C to line up, much harder !!

Cheers... jondee86

[dangdang]

Thanks jondee86, good info, my 82 is FWD though so RWD is unique, get that, but are the AW11 and 82/92/101 the same offsets??

I would really prefer to run the OE one as I know its a good unit and is about half the price of a Ross.

Its just alt and p/s that have to align, no a/c, have a window winder for that.

[Casey-G]

What are thoughts on gilmer drives here? (not too far off topic) I have a gilmer drive set from endeavor engineering (in NZ) that im contemplating removing as the engine will see 7000rpm+ every now and then.. even 8000+

Can they be balanced well enough to not worry about?

[RT40Corona4AGTE]

What are thoughts on gilmer drives here? (not too far off topic) I have a gilmer drive set from endeavor engineering (in NZ) that im contemplating removing as the engine will see 7000rpm+ every now and then.. even 8000+

Can they be balanced well enough to not worry about?

I too am interested in comments on this!

[mattysshop]

No it won't... not if you are expecting it to replace a genuine RWD crank pulley. The AW ones are
stepped, but the diameter and offsets are different. FWD pulleys are not stepped (no biggie) but once
again the offsets (between the pulleys) are different.

Yes, the RWD and FWD water pump pulleys are different. Which suggests that the FWD and RWD
alternators and/or pulleys must be different also... although I have never checked them.

Before you buy an new AW pulley, take your old RWD pulley and match it to an AW one. AFAIK
there is no living match to the RWD pulley, it is totally unique among 4AGE pulleys. As said above,
if you only want the alt belt, it is easily done. But if you want the alt and A/C to line up, much harder !!

Cheers... jondee86

i've always interchanged the crank pulleys no problems.. i am yet to see a difference in the offset of the crank pulley between rwd/fwd ge/gze etc etc..

there IS a difference as stated with the RWD water pump being longer, but the RWD water pump pully has an approx 20mm back space to compensate this... where as the FWD water pump pulley sits almost flush with the face of the pulley...

[takai]

i've always interchanged the crank pulleys no problems.. i am yet to see a difference in the offset of the crank pulley between rwd/fwd ge/gze etc etc..

there IS a difference as stated with the RWD water pump being longer, but the RWD water pump pully has an approx 20mm back space to compensate this... where as the FWD water pump pulley sits almost flush with the face of the pulley...

Exactly. Im currently running a RWD pulley on my smallport engine, with FWD water pump and alternator. Lines up perfectly. The diameters are different between the RWD and FWD pulleys, but that is all.

Also if you are after just a single row pulley then you can machine off the front drive section no problems. The rubber dampener doesnt extend that far forward.