4A with high revs and boost?

[The Witzl]

to make a measly 200hp at the wheels.... just take a smallport 4age (from an AE92 SX, etc), slap in some 8.9:1 4agze pistons (stock ones, from Toyota), and do a decent rebuild.
Then add a suitably sized turbo.

200hp at the wheels easy, and metric fuckload cheaper than what you are proposing.

[Joshstix]

If you're going to run some boost then you should run some boost. This 5psi shit is just a waste of time. I have NFI why the obsession with big revs since it's just a good way to break things but as an example my 3S spins to 8500rpm makes peak power just under 8K and makes about double the power you're looking for at the wheels. However because I run a decent amount of boost, 21ish psi, it also makes a tonne of torque and has good area under the curve.

Remember power = torque x revs / 5200. Looking at that we can see that there are two ways to make more power, make more torque at the same revs or make the same torque at more revs. Of these two options when running a boosted engine it is going to be far better for longevity to make more torque at the same revs, until you hit detronation issues which is a long way north of what you're suggesting. If you are at the point that you can no longer make more torque at the same revs due to cylinder pressure and octane of available fuels then sure building to move the torque band up to higher speeds is a worthwhile thing to get more power. This shouldn't however be the primary plan for a boosted street car setup.

[oldcorollas]

/\ this.

a 4A with 4psi = NA 3S
or with maybe 6 or 7psi, a BEAMS NA 3S....


just sayin'

[Sam_Q]

20-valve blacktop - silvertop is a heap cheaper and performs almost identically.

Aftermarket pistons & rods based on GZE items- Use GZE, if you pedantic get some valve flycuts put in. Otherwise use the ACL perfomance pistons they give you about 10:1 compression.

Stock crank (this is the part that worries me most) - well don't your not even going to come to stressing it.

GT25 turbo from a SR20DET set around 0.5 bar- Run the amount of boost that the engine lets you with the right amount of timing still.


Max power tuned to come at about 8500rpm - maybe a bit later - rev limiter set to 9000- The only way you could do this is if you detune anything below 8500, otherwise the engine decides where your going to make power.

Compression higher than a standard GZE but lower than a standard 20V, so like...9.5:1.
I'll figure this out later- ACL pistons

Standard intake cam & leave the VVT alone as much as I can
Longer duration & greater lift exhaust cam, (1) to help the turbo spool up and (2) to compensate for the lack of exhaust cam VVT- not needed and you can still run VVT with the right aftermarket cam profile.

[the_random_hero]

Useless with a SC14 for those revs, twinscrew is where it's at

[dangdang]

Definitely do not stress about the crank or rods for that matter, I did a LOT of research into my bottom end and it always came back to the factory crank and rods, they are forged items and nigh on indestructable! The rods are chunkier than S/B chev for instance. Just replace the factory fasteners with ARP bolts and studs.