1uzfe ,host of issues in my swap please help

[mick08]

Have you checked the ECU temp sender (not the gauge one), this can cause the engine to think its well below temp or well over and put it in limp home mode,what about the O2 sensors have you tried unplugging them and see how it runs, adjusting the TPS is the last thing to do,if you know how to put it back to standard with the resistance values- thats the thing to do it should never need adj really not like carby

[George]

I would start from the simplest things.
First of all, it's a swap so you could forget to connect something. Most likely, a power line. Usually, VSVs, MAF and O2 sensor all receive power from master relay, and this node is also present at diagnostic connector. So check that power is delivered to the MAF sensor. Right at the MAF connector when ignition is on. The p0101 that states MAF signal is out of range points that the part might be not powered or not connected.

That would do, but if not, check all the MAF wiring from MAF connector to ECU connector to ensure no circuit breaks.

If that does not help, check if harness screens are grounded. There must be a connector sealed on one side where plenty of brown wires come. They are connected together there and they must all show 0 - 2 Ohms to intake manifold.

[taka21]

heres a link to the vid i just made showcasing the odd behavior of this swap
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WjRpHaA64sY

[madmont]

Is the brown wire in the connector to the afm properly earthed? (earth wire at rear of motor your passenger side)

[taka21]

Is the brown wire in the connector to the afm properly earthed? (earth wire at rear of motor your passenger side)

i just checked the voltage on that brown wire int the maf connector and its not a ground its getting 11v
so im a lil confused

[madmont]

Check your wiring diagram

[George]

+1. Sounds like MAF receives +12v power but is not grounded at the same time.

Your harness must contain a connector with brown and probably black wires, located somewhere near ECU. All the wires must be connected together inside the connector, check this. Most of the brown wires are connected to intake manifold (so they are "sources" of ground). The others are for screening sensor signals from noise, and the remaining ones deliver power ground to MAF, VSVs etc. So problems in the connector usually have dramatic effect.

[taka21]

its been a while since i posted on her but i just wanted to thank everyone for all the help
it turns out that the maf and several other sensors were not being powered properly and it was an oversight in the initial wiring. the car is up and running and not spewing black smoke anymore
but it still is not reving past 4 k and its still running pretty rich

[George]

Just had recently a very similar problem in our g-merc (I've posted a thread here) with 1uz-fe. Check out power at ECU connector. Turn ignition switch on. Power should be delivered to +b, +bat and igsw terminals.

Without +12v at IGSW terminal the engine will idle high and run rich.

[taka21]

so eventually i figured out that all the major sensors werent getting power
i got them all 12v constant and it ran like a charm
sometime later i decided i didnt like power steering and ac so they went and now im trying to figure out how to make the serpentine belt tighter its just hitting the crank the alternator and the tensioner pulley but the pully dosent apply enough pressure
any ideas?

[George]

simply put the a/c comp back, will cost you nothing.

[taka21]

simply put the a/c comp back, will cost you nothing.

i dont see how that will cause the tensoner to apply more pressure to the belt.???
i was thinking of trying a bigger pulley thats ribbed on there and see where i get. im really curious to know why you think that adding the ac compressor would solve the issue though.

[George]

1 the tensioner arm has limited travel
2 geometry
after all with both a/c comp and p/s pump everything was ok right?

[CrUZida]

A/C is easy to delete and keep a tensioned belt.
PS is much harder as the belt route required this.
You'll probably need to replace it with an idler pulley in a similar location to keep the tension.

[taka21]

so i went ahead and did ed's pulley mod with the 7m waterpump pulley and it helped a lot just not enough