1JZ VVTi help please anyone?!

[Dylo]

Hey guys,

Im stumped with my VVTI 1JZ single turbo. Ive got a JZZ30 Soarer. Its not running and I swear I've tried everything!!!!

Symptoms are it will run for approx 1 minute before it stalls. If i then try to start again it will onlt kick but not run again unless i leave it and try it again the next day.

I'ver tried to get a diagnosis code out but the check engine light only comes on prior to when the car runs for 1 minute. After it stalls, the engine light wont even appear on the dash again!! WTF? If i then short out Te1 and E1, still nothing appears.

Things ive checked:

Fuel pump jumper in the diag port makes no difference and I can hear the pump going etc.
VVTI Solenoid is ok.
Throttle body is clean and ok.
No visable Vacuum leaks.
Plugs are sparking.
Engine timing is spot on.

Anyone know what else I can check / try?


Thanks in advance.

Dylo

[wilbo666]

Try connecting Tc to E1 in the diag port to get the check engine light to flash...

If it's like the other VVTi Toyota's you need to conenct Tc instead of Te1.



Cheers
Wilbo

["Z" UTE]

Dylo, did this just suddenly happen, or have you been upgradeing bits? Check to make sure your airflowmeter is connected, as the symptoms you describe can be caused by no signal from airflowmeter.


cheers Chuck.

[Dylo]

Hey Chuck,
Long time no see mate. I havent been doing any upgrades etc of late, more neglecting it if anything!

UPDATE:
I finally got the engine light to come on again after removing the INJ and ECU 30A fuses again and resetting the ECU. The light hasn't even been lighting up on the dash for the last week or so when switched to 'ON'. Anyway, after kicking it in the guts for a while it fired once, then the engine light flashed. That was my ticket to turn her off and short out the Te1 & E1.

It gave me codes 3 & 9 or 39. Not sure which. Any clues what these are going to point me at? Ignighter circut I found somewhere.... But i have spark?

Thanks again,
Dylo

[madmont]

Code 39 points to the oil control solenoid for the VVTI Mine will run with it disconnected

[Dieseltrain]

Not sure on codes , check out soarercentral.com for info , but check all earth points too .

[Dylo]

Does anyone have the VVTi 1jz soarer error code list? Cant seem to find it anywhere.

Thanks,
Dylo

[madmont]

Lexus codes are probably the same look them up

[George]

Toyota 2-digit codes are the same for all models. For a quick example, check
http://www.toyota-club.kz/images/stories/engine.doc

For JZZ30 pinout, check
http://www.monsterezza.com/2007/10/w...t-diagram.html

Error 39 points to VVTI valve. Its coil is connected to ECU pins OCV+ and OCV-. Inspect wiring and valve winding for circuit breaks. For example disconnect corresponding connector from ECU and measure resistance between VVTI valve pins, must be something below 2K Ohms.

Another means for quick inspection of VVTI valve is as follows. Unscrew it from your engine and apply 12V. You must see movement, and with power unplugged, valve must retard to initial position. However this does not ensure that the valve works fine in engine, it may still get stuck sometimes.

It is true that on running engine disconnection of VVTI valve does not lead to engine stall. However if you then apply +12v to the valve, engine will stall and won't start unless you connect it to the ECU again. With valve stuck in such unlucky position, the same situation will happen.

[Dylo]

Thanks George. That list is great. It's giving me transmission code 89. It's suggesting a ETCS / snow pulse? Not sure what that is and would it cause my car to stall out?

[madmont]

Code 89 would suggest fault in the throttle control system .Do you have ETCS?

[Dylo]

Yes according to the ETCS badge on the top of the throttle body it does. Am i correct in thinking this is what the traction control uses to close a butterfly and retard the power / and enter snow mode also? So this could be why my car sometimes ldles very high and sometimes it idles so low it will stall?

Is there any way to test the ETCS??

I was starting to believe it may be an MAF meter problem but i just swapped in another one and it still idles at 400rpm and stalls when cold.

Thanks again for your help.

Dylo

[madmont]

Sounds like there is something amiss with your electronic throttle control system. With mine if you rotate the mechanical part which is linked by throttle cable to the accelerator it will mechanically open the butterfly when the ignition is offbut will only open it about30%. When ignition on the butterfly opens electrically as you depress the accelerator. Mine was idling a little slow for me so I drilled a small hole in the butterfly to make it idle faster. It now idles at about 800rpm a little fast but at least i do not stall it . The aluminium flywheel needs a few extra revs on takeoff or it stalls.

[Dylo]

OK I have an update. I started the car 1st and saw it idle at about 4-500 rpm. I then took off the ETCS plug and started it again. Instantly revs were at the proper level and it was sounding alot nicer.

I thought beauty ive fixed it so i'll take it for a blast. Got half way around the block and it just plain died when doing about 60km/h. It wouldnt start so I got my mate to come and tow it and just before we towed I gave it one shot and it started but running reallly rough. I drove it back home.

It stalled when i pulled up and now wont start again no matter if ECTS plugs are in or out!

What to try now? Thinking of pulling off the I/C piping and see if i can move the butterfly around or clean it or something?

Any idea why the ETCS has two plugs? One looks to be the motor and has many wires. The plug on the otherside has only about 4 wires but seemed to be the one that made it idle properly when removed.

Thanks for any assistance!

Dylo

[George]

The 2nd ETCS plug must be ETCS throttle position sensor. Note there's yet another TPS, it's for pedal-linked throttle and it should have 3 wires.

I've never seen dead TPS on a Toyota but for other vehicles it's a common thing that after some 50.000km or more the sensor become worn and needs replacement. Again, I would recommend to check its wires for breaks and then to check the sensor. I'm not at home right now so can't suggest any schematics until tomorrow.

p/s this spring I had some experience with 2JZ-GTE swap. It was failing to start and threw error 89. ETCS did not work. That said, with ignition on and throttle pedal moving, ETCS throttle did not move along. The problem was in orange connector with plenty of brown wires, they were not connected together because the engine kit didn't include the mating connector (by mistake). As result, ETCS motor didn't receive negative power rail supply.