mate your on the right track, tho dont touch nothing till you pull codes... and yes you have the right process..
-pull codes
-right them down
-remove battery for 10mins to reset ecu
-drive again
-pull codes again
-compare findings and fix
Hi guys.
As a preface, i apologize for the long post. Main points are in bold.
I have a car i'm tinkering with at the moment (GX71 Cresta, Gen 1 1GGTE, 4spd ECT Auto) which i'm having some troubles with after getting it to running properly.
History of repairs are as such -
The car was bought by the current owner as a not-really-running car. Apparently had the head done recently. This was a lie as it turned out. Started work on the vehicle with a solid no-fire on cylinder 4. Testing revealed no compression on cyl 4. Took the head off and found a stuck exhaust valve on number 4. After attempting to procure a replacement head, we ended up re-coing the current one. no worries. After head repairs I banged it all back together, starts, runs and idles clean. A bit slow to rev. The car has no exhaust on it after the turbo dump pipe for reference. All sensors are hooked up. Cam timing is correct.
The nature of the fault -
After getting it running i went to drive the thing out of the workshop - the Engine light is on - not surprising after repairs of this nature, however i'm under the impression that an ECM with this kind of rudimentery OBD will not make the engine light illuminate unless a fault is currently present.
Driving it out, it took off like a slug out of nowhere. Although i cannot be certain, it would seem that either because the engine controller is commanding it to, or because the trans is throwing a hissy fit, it takes off in third gear. we also have very poor throttle response, possibly because the ECM is in some kind of limp home / protection mode.
Although presently i have not pulled Trouble codes from the car (haven't worked on it for a while) I would firstly like to confirm that the process of pulling trouble codes from this car is as such, having never pulled DTC's from a car of this age. Open rectangular diagnostics box (with diagnostics written on the top) and bridge the E1 and TE1. Then IGN on, watch the light, decypher codes. This will be my first step when i have another look at it this week.
What i am going to look at first
Ensure that there is no error due to an incorrect correlation between the MAF and TPS - i.e. an air leak that would cause this - the intake ducting on the vehicle is not in particularly good shape.
From experience on later model vehicles a TPS error will also cause this. The TPS was not removed from the throttlebody for repairs, however a process to 're-set' the TPS would be appreciated.
Obviously any codes are going to help diagnostics vastly, however i would appreciate any information on cases that you've come across, opinions, confirmation of my methods or suggested directions to look in.
THANKS GUYS.
Javal.
Last edited by Javal; 26-07-2010 at 09:49 PM.
The 18R-G. The GOOD 2 Litre Tractor motor.
mate your on the right track, tho dont touch nothing till you pull codes... and yes you have the right process..
-pull codes
-right them down
-remove battery for 10mins to reset ecu
-drive again
-pull codes again
-compare findings and fix
Update!
Pulled codes from the car tonight. 5 flashes, 2 second break, 4 flashes, 10 second break, repeat... So code 54.
The trouble code chart I have for the thing does not even list code 54. Oddly enough it only goes up to code 53. I haven't tried driving the car again, but I have started it and the code is actively setting. The Check Engine light will go out for about 5-8 seconds then pop back up. Pulling the code again reveals code 54.
A small amount of googling reveals this thread:
http://www.toymods.org.au/forums/showthread.php?t=41452
Which suggests that DTC 54 is related to the Water to Air intercooler controller - which IS fitted to this vehicle with a gen1 1GGTE.
I'm struggling with a japanese version of the 1GGTE wiring diagram linked here - http://homepage.mac.com/rib_feast/1g-gte.pdf
What i'm going to be looking at now is
a ) finding the bloody W2A controller module, if it indeed exists
b ) seeing if the bloody thing is plugged in
c ) trying to find the ECU pin for the controller so i can test continuity
If you've seen this sort of thing before please pipe up.
I'm getting a tad lost on this one as i'm rather stumped as to why a code setting for the W2A intercooler can set this car in limp mode - unless there's actually fault in the trans as well as this code setting.
The 18R-G. The GOOD 2 Litre Tractor motor.
have you checked if your car actually has a water to air intercooler?.. must do i guess, i think youll find there must be a tank with a low level alert in it maybe?
done a quick google for you..
Check.
1/ Intercooler coolant.
2/ Coolant level sensor circuit.
3/ Coolant level sensor.
4/ Intercooler water pump circuit.
5/ Intercooler ECU circuit.
6/ Intercooler ECU.
7/ ECU.
That's a darn good and logical order of operations for me to look into. Thanks mate.
Rep for you. Anyone else care to weigh in?
The 18R-G. The GOOD 2 Litre Tractor motor.
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