High tensile bolts for flywheel?

[JustenGT8]

Picked up some 12.9 cap heads. Same fit in the flywheel as OEM. Flywheel is 'hub' centric on the crank so i'm happy enough that it's all kosha

[ed]

same as what im running

Picked up some 12.9 cap heads. Same fit in the flywheel as OEM. Flywheel is 'hub' centric on the crank so i'm happy enough that it's all kosha

[JustenGT8]

same as what im running

Well if they are good for 10k rpm they are good enough for the girlie revs i'll be running

[takai]

Stainless steel or high tensile steel?
SS gradings are different to HT gradings.

[JustenGT8]

It's not SS

[takai]

Ah, so just plain black HT, will be fine then. Saw a flywheel come apart because the guy wanted the bling of SS.

Just give them a touch of oil under the head for the right torque, and perhaps some HT washers to spread the load.

[oldcorollas]

what are thoughts on lockplates? loctite?

[ed]

1uz has an open thread on the deep crank side of the threads, so you 'need' some kind of sealant unless you want oil weeping out. i usually just run a med loctite thread lock.

also agree with HT washers, i also run them in mine

[JustenGT8]

I always run loctite....haven't bothered with washers as flywheel is 15mm thick so no load issues

[takai]

Still will be a loaded step where the head of the bolt is. Bolt head is only 14mm OD at most.

[JustenGT8]

Still will be a loaded step where the head of the bolt is. Bolt head is only 14mm OD at most.

So? All it does is hold it to the crank face and friction does most of the work. What's going to fail? Not the bolt head and nor the flywheel

[ed]

spreads the clamping load out, reduces the stress in the flywheel material right under the caphead. youll feel the difference when you torque it

[JustenGT8]

I know what a washer does, duh

But in this case i don't think it's an issue? No washer with OEM and head surface area is similar enough. A few localised points of stress in that close grouping in that thickness material is a moot issue i reckon.

[Sam_Q]

sure, but i cat rattle of a bunch of OEM engines that ive seen where the shanked portion of the bolt ends whislt still inside the thickness of the flywheel. shanked portion locates the flywheel more precisely, but does not also engage the crank. simple torque of the bolts uses the friction between crank and flywheel to reduce shear load on the bolts.

yeah that's no problem, I am talking about if the start of the thread on the bolt in in line with where the flywheel touches the crank, having the thread shorter or longer is ok.

[allencr]

I know what a washer does, duh

Yeah, they does like this.

4AG stock & ARP.
Thanks Club4AG!