2ZZ-GE Valve Adjustment

[checksix]

CraigD, WOW, better than I'd hoped for! I hope to be able to post results in a few weeks (schedule at work took an ugly turn today), and besides, it might take a bit to work up my nerve. With the link (and spreadsheet) SuperDave provided, and the detail instructions CraigD provided I feel this is well within my ability to measure the current settings and report the results. Now if I do need to do an adjustment ......

Does anyone have more detail on the SST referenced in the procedure? From what I could see it didn't look all that complicated. Anyone have a handle on making one? Or buying one? Not sure I'm going there, but one never knows, and perhaps this might inspire someone else.

[CraigD]

This is wat i use when doing the shims.
Cheers Craig

http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item....re&dir=catalog

[checksix]

CraigD, wow, looks pretty simple. Not sure how it would work, but figure with an engine in front of me it would make sense. Thanks for the help!

[toyoda]

Hi,


Just be aware that they are a pig to get out and if you are not carefull and drop one they go straight down the oil drains at the front of the head.

I always use rag along the front and have a magnet handy.

The Toyota SST which clamps over the Spark Plug tube and holds down teh valves to enable you to remove the small shims that are used are a bit tricky as well.

Because they hold down the valve using the Cap - if you are a bit rough you can depress the cap and the Cotters drop out allowing your valve to drop and this is a pain to fix assembled.

Good Luck.

Toyoda

[andrew_mx83]

just cos it isnt noisy doesnt mean they dont need to be checked, if the clearances close up it will be nice and quiet.... til a valve is being held open and it loses compression

i was gonna point you in the direction of my clearancing spreadsheet but i believe you have already rep'd me for it so i take it you have seen/used it

[SuperDave]

Hi,


Just be aware that they are a pig to get out and if you are not carefull and drop one they go straight down the oil drains at the front of the head.

I always use rag along the front and have a magnet handy.

The Toyota SST which clamps over the Spark Plug tube and holds down teh valves to enable you to remove the small shims that are used are a bit tricky as well.

Because they hold down the valve using the Cap - if you are a bit rough you can depress the cap and the Cotters drop out allowing your valve to drop and this is a pain to fix assembled.

Good Luck.

Toyoda

Yep, the rocker gets in the way nicely doesn't it.
Glad to hear I didn't miss out on much by not buying the Toyota SST and just modifying a copper tube to push on the cap for me.

[checksix]

Just posting where I am with the project (which is where I was last time unfortunately). I'm hoping to get into the valves this coming weekend, but I've been side tracked before! The goal this weekend will be to measure the clearance and replace the spark plugs and see what it's like in there (my only prior experience is the 18R-G). If I need a tool, I'll probably get the Snap-On, but SuperDave's comment on the smashed copper tube was interesting.
Andrew, yes I did get (and replied) about the spreadsheet. I plugged in some "numbers" to get a feel for it, and don't see I'll have issues (but I've yet to measure and use it, so be kind if I need help), ha ha!!!

[SuperDave]

I just cut two windows out of the copper tube to gain access to the retainers. It did make it a 2 person job, one to hold the tube and the other to work the spring compressor, but got it done for minimal outlay. But to do the clearance checking you won't need to remove the valves/springs anyway.

[checksix]

Dave, thank you for the info. Hopefully it will make sence once i get in there. I'm hoping I won't have to adjust, but with close to 100K miles I figure it's almost a given. In defence, I have run synthetics all but 2 oil changes. I'll post the results once I'm in there.

[checksix]

. You'll also need a drop of FIPG to seal between the head, valve cover and the timing chain cover.

I did purchase a new valve cover gasket for the job, do I still need to use FIPG? Is there a particular place it needs to be, or is it just all over the gasket. Should I get the Toyota stuff, or will hylomar be just as good?

[SuperDave]

It's only needed at the interface between the valve cover, head, timing chain cover. You'll see it once you get the valve cover off as there will already be a small blob there. I already had a tube of Toyota FIPG; someone else on here will have to comment on suitable substitutes.