snapped exhaust manifold stud. and snapped stud extractor.

[thechuckster]

you might need another tool called the 'get-thefuck-out-of-there-you-little-bastard'.


seriously: can you get to the broken end of the easy-out (also known as easy-breaks)? with a good quality long punch with a very sharp tip?

If so, get the tip off centre and belt it at an angle (to rotate it around and out) - that might jar the thing loose so you can get to the bolt proper.


edit: HAVABEER had the welding idea first - kudos should go to him.

[StuC]

Oh yeah - kudos to you
I dont have a get-the-fuck-out-of-there-you-little-bastard SST but i have a range of
'you'-c*nt', 'you-prick' and 'son-of-bitch' SSTS.
I have a dedicated draw in my toolbox for them

[StuC]

Oh yeah - kudos to you
I dont have a get-the-fuck-out-of-there-you-little-bastard SST but i have a range of
'you'-c*nt', 'you-prick' and 'son-of-bitch' SSTS.
I have a dedicated draw in my toolbox for them

[mattysshop]

see if you can migweld something (larger bolt?) onto the broken bits. The heat might help free things up as well as having an object to get a drip on.

i'm assuming it's an alloy head..?

just gradually build up (slow wire speed) with a mig set up to weld mild steel... keep building up thick bustard arse tacks on the stud.. and get it hanging out of the head enough to get some vice grips on...

if you think that you will fill the hole with weld... think again... if you are able to sucsessfully weld steel to aluminium alloy.. you will be a VERY rich man

hope that helps you

i have had to do it on nearly EVERY single nissan CA/SR/RB that comes in for a turbo manifold.. it's worth while literally having a pack of new studs from the bolt shop for these jobs.. and you just pull all the studs out.. and put new ones in with the new manifold...

[HAVABEER]

and put new ones in with the new manifold...

with a good lathering of some of that nickle based 1000 degrees antiseize stuff on the thread

[checksix]

I liked the welding idea. I'd add to also use Kroil. This by far the best penetrant oil I've ever seen. But no matter how good this is, if you can't grab it.......

My 2nd choice is to suck it up and pull the head to take to a pro who can do an EDM process (electric arc vaporization).

[caibs]

alright guys update time. tried various different drill bits with no avail. also tried angle tapping with a thin punch.

havent given it a go with a welder, ringing around tommorow to see if any of my mates has one i can borrow. sounds like a good idea in theory, maybe like a 5 or 6 mil bolt? im guessing the heat might even free up some of the corrosion?

theres also a guy that i've found in perth called peter whitefoot thread repairs, a local head shop reckons he's the king of removing these things. i'm gonna call him tommorow and see if he's available.

also shouldve mentioned it is an rb25. reason i asked here is because people are actually helpful (just look at the replies) instead of keyboard cockheads.

if none of these work, its motor out time. if i still cant get it out with the motor out, its head off time.

[Javal]

alright guys update time. tried various different drill bits with no avail. also tried angle tapping with a thin punch.

havent given it a go with a welder, ringing around tommorow to see if any of my mates has one i can borrow. sounds like a good idea in theory, maybe like a 5 or 6 mil bolt? im guessing the heat might even free up some of the corrosion?

theres also a guy that i've found in perth called peter whitefoot thread repairs, a local head shop reckons he's the king of removing these things. i'm gonna call him tommorow and see if he's available.

also shouldve mentioned it is an rb25. reason i asked here is because people are actually helpful (just look at the replies) instead of keyboard cockheads.

if none of these work, its motor out time. if i still cant get it out with the motor out, its head off time.

Don't bother going to that kind of effort. If you can't get it out, call a mobile thread repairer. In adelaide we have Dr Bolt and Captain thread. Not sure what you have in perth. It should cost less than $60 if it's easy, less than $100 if it's hard, and you don't have to take the motor out or head off. Money well spent if you ask me.

[mattysshop]

alright guys update time. tried various different drill bits with no avail. also tried angle tapping with a thin punch.

havent given it a go with a welder, ringing around tommorow to see if any of my mates has one i can borrow. sounds like a good idea in theory, maybe like a 5 or 6 mil bolt? im guessing the heat might even free up some of the corrosion?

theres also a guy that i've found in perth called peter whitefoot thread repairs, a local head shop reckons he's the king of removing these things. i'm gonna call him tommorow and see if he's available.

also shouldve mentioned it is an rb25. reason i asked here is because people are actually helpful (just look at the replies) instead of keyboard cockheads.

if none of these work, its motor out time. if i still cant get it out with the motor out, its head off time.

thats EXACTLY what happened to me and the Mig was the best/easiest solution you just need to pull the manifold off, and grab a mig... you don't need to weld anything to it... thats what the filler wire is for! just keep building up on itself with short bursts, to build up tack's till it hangs out of the head.. then clamp some vice grips on it!!

don't risk it.. take out ALL the studs... go to a bolt shop.. and grab yourself some new ones.. shouldn't cost any more than about $10 for a small bag full (approx 20) trust me you will have a lot more confidence when you have all new ones in there and you can actually tighten them up properly and not being scared of snapping another one...

[checksix]

Mattyshop is right in suggesting to replace all the bolts (hay if one is bad then....) a Mig may be your best friend. I suggest a good anti seize when reinstalling.

[caibs]

alright, this guy peter whitefoot i mentioned in my last post came over today, ground out the extractor and got the stud out, and replaced the stud in the space of about an hour and a half. i couldnt recommend him more, if anyone gets into a similar situation in perth, just search peter whitefoot thread repairs on yellowpages. top guy, and only cost me $100.

i didnt get a chance to try the mig idea but i'm sure it would work. thanks everyone for your help, i'll +rep you all.

tommorow i'll be taking the rest of them out, even if i snap them i'm just gonna call this guy back. i dont want to deal with a snapped extractor tool again. looks like she'll be back on the road soon

[thechuckster]

easy-outs are an oxymoron - only two things that they're easy at is costing you money and snapping off when you can least afford/desire it.

[obrim]

^^^

So true. I've had maybe 1 work but so many have snapped.

Threadtech is my hero!

[checksix]

caibs, thanks for the update and the results. Getting the final answer is ALWAYS helpful for all the forum members.

I always go easy when using an easy out. Snap one off and you are literally SCREWED!

[TERRA Operative]

Easy outs are only good when a bolt is snapped off from over torquing it or bottoming out, not for seized bolts.
One of the problems is when you tighten the easy out into the bolt it presses outwards and jams the bolt harder. Plus they break easy when using too much torque.

They are good for getting stripped Allen bolts out though. Saved me with a 4E head once.....