4agze so close to running need an experts brain here

[Casey-G]

4agze cas pickup, halteh sprint ecu, ls1 coilpacks.


I'm having trouble starting it, is is firing and getting fuel, the headers get warm after cranking and on occasions it backfires.

I'm thinking it's my settings in the haltech manager and the timig advance in the manager also it's set at 15 degrees.

I have the reluctors settings to trigger trigger and home set on rising, the coil packs are set to fire on falling edge, I'm not quite sure what it's supposed to be.

Does anyone know how it's supposed to be setup to run sequentially I.e rising or fallog edges.

Sorry if it's breif but this is written on my phone I need to get this all sorted out quickly.




I'm so close now but this is doing my head in at the moment

[toddw]

you have a pm

[JP]

what RPM does the laptop show while cranking? This will give you an indication if the triggers are right.

Is a timing light showing 15deg at the crank while cranking?

Engines will start a lot easier when rich compared to lean, if you've started with a 20V fuel map then in theory it should be rich using the 20V pulsewidth on your larger injectors.

[Casey-G]

The RPM was showing like 280rpm

I have trigger and home inputs

In the software for some reason the ignition advance was set to 15* or something, i reloaded the map and its back to 10 as it should be.

The timing was fluctuating earlier, but i have since read a bit more up on it and its because i wasn't using tooth offset properly, i think i have it sorted out now, but i haven't attempted to start it just yet (dont think the neighbors would like that at 1.30am). But i will when the sun rises.

I set the tooth offset to 10 and it was dead on TDC with the angle at 60 degrees.



When i put the cas into the head. Do i do so it has the single tooth on g1 at TDC and ignore the original marks on the cas's gear ect? or is this incorrect? I think this is where the problem resides as when i posted the OP it was firing on the exhaust stroke causing shotgun noises n such.


Thanks to not only JP but the everyone else that has put up with me trying to learn this shit, hopefully it pays off in the end.


Case

[JP]

Install the CAS as per factory, line the mark on the housing up with the mark on the gear. Then once installed you can set the trigger offset in the software so the timing shows whatever you lock the ignition to when cranking (I usually select whatever reading is easiest to see with the light on the covers, 10 or 15deg usually)

[Casey-G]

Thanks JP

Timing is set, i have that tooth offset/trigger angle working properly for me now.

It will start, then rev up to about 1500-2000 then cut out

I'm guessing that its running overly rich, but im not 100% sure.

TPS is calibrated properly so im just thinking it may be the fuel map.


enlighten me? i hate being a nublet at stuff

thanks in advance

[JP]

for it to be cutting out from fuel there would be black smoke out the exhaust. Maptrace it through startup and see what cells it passes through, I'd datalog it if the haltech has that functionality.

Are you using the 4agze ISCV? Does it stay running with throttle?

[trdee]

if it stays running with throttle but stalls when you get off it then your dizzy could be off a tooth

[JP]

that's not applicable with a haltech if he's checked the timing with a light. That's what the trigger offsets are for.

[Casey-G]

How important is the iscv? I don't have it wired up at present...

Afr was getting down to 10 but at the time I didn't really check for smoke ( derr yeah I know ) so haven't check to see if it runs with throttle, so I guess I will try that next and see what happens.


Timing is dead on 10BTDC.

I'm curious to know exatly how Important the iscv is, I've also been tossing up the idea of a vac leak

[trdee]

ah didnt know that JP. aftermarket ecus are still a mystery to me

casey, teh iscv works like a choke on a carby car. if the engine is cold then it raises teh idle for you. thus if you no have iscv, then you need to stay on the gas so that the car doesnt stall till it warms up

if you dont have your iscv plumbed up then yeah i would say that's your problem. start it up and use the throttle to keep it from stalling till it warms up

[Casey-G]

Can I delete it? Plate it off?

[JP]

Why not wire it up?

Street cars suck with no idle control. If it's there and you have spare aux outputs on the ECU you'd be mad not to use it. From memory it's a 3 wire valve so you will need two additional aux outputs to drive it.

Also make sure you take the timing lock off before trying to start it

[trdee]

Can I delete it? Plate it off?

you can run no iscv but it wont improve your problem any

[Casey-G]

JP, why do i unlock the timing? I was unaware or this. :O




As for the iscv... what a piece of shit bit of hardware, is there absolutely no way i can have it run and hold an idle without it?

Only coz i wouldn't have the first clue in the world of how to wire the thing, and secondly it would speed things up if i can just ignore it somehow.

On the haltech forums its being suggested that its a vac leak causing the cut out, would this be relating to the ISCV?



My plan of action today is (yes it is 1am now)

- blank off the ISCV for now
- wind out the throttle position/butterfly screw
- re calibrate tps
- crack the butterfly so its greater than 1%throttle
- ?????
- car runs


see what happens

Oh, just browsing through the ecu manager, i can write a zero throttle map in the haltech ecu manager, which i am led to believe is a form of idle control? so i may in fact be able to delete the ISCV