1uz alternator not 'doing it's part'?

[Supra967]

i got current from mine without the light pin connected, i did however earth the alt body back to the battery (was testing off a car).

[midnight_purple_GA70]

so for arguements sake in regards to charge lights...
as i cannot easily get to the one in my dash (gauges super glued on under side of dash of the top of the dashboard infront of the stock gauges)

could i just wire it up to an aftermarket light of some sort and just ground 1 side of the light and connect the light wire from the alternator to the other side?

i currently have an issue of the alternator seems to be charging fine when cold but after the car heats up it struggles to charge under load etc...

[RA35GT]

Charge light has one side Ignition +12V the other side goes to alt L pin.

As per PDF (page one). http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h8.pdf

Cant recall what wattage light it is though.

[midnight_purple_GA70]

would it make any difference or care if the electric choke heating coil is not in the system?
in other words just run a 12v IG on signal to one side of the light and the other side of the light to the L pin on the alternator?

is there anything ive missed?

[TRD-12A]

Yeah sorry im an IDIOT light has 12v ignition feed and other side goes to alternator the alternator earths it out and when spins over drops the earth then the light goes out sorry for the wrong info previously.

Yeah to answer your question you can just wire up a light somewhere and it'll work as for your chrging cold but not hot that may be a different problem run a light first then see what happens

[madmont]

here is a link which may help
the regulator pictured is the one used by Toyota in the 1UZ alternator
http://www.autoshop101.com/trainmodu...or/alt130.html
If you are putting a motor with one of these into an earlier model vehicle which was not equipped with EFI make sure you use a diode in the circuit back to the warning lamp as was used in the donor vehicle. Otherwise your motor may keep on running due to the 12v feeding back from the regulator through the warning lamp back into the ignition circuit thus energising the ECU

[Sciflyer]

i have a reconditioned 1uz alt which will throw an "Alt not charging" error on the dash every time when the ignition is first switched on, but when the engine is running its charging fine (~14.5v)

I know its the alt because the error has come up in both soarers it's been in

any ideas?

[midnight_purple_GA70]

i have a reconditioned 1uz alt which will throw an "Alt not charging" error on the dash every time when the ignition is first switched on, but when the engine is running its charging fine (~14.5v)

I know its the alt because the error has come up in both soarers it's been in

any ideas?

would that just be its "charge light" as thats essentially all the charge light is doing... ie. when the car isnt running the light stays on to say "the alternator isnt charging" and then once started goes away to say "the alternator is charging"

just my take on it... but if it previously didnt do it and after reconditioning it does it seems a little strange

[midnight_purple_GA70]

Yeah sorry im an IDIOT light has 12v ignition feed and other side goes to alternator the alternator earths it out and when spins over drops the earth then the light goes out sorry for the wrong info previously.

Yeah to answer your question you can just wire up a light somewhere and it'll work as for your chrging cold but not hot that may be a different problem run a light first then see what happens

that info is no different to your last info lol only thing your an Idiot for doing is doubting yourself

so i know you said previously you were unsure of wattage of the light... would this matter too much or will any 12v light work?

[TRD-12A]

any 12v light will work wattage is'nt a factor

[stradlater]

So I've now checked it out.

IG is getting +12V when IGN is on
S is getting Constant +12V
B is connected appropriately.
L is not working at all.

I have checked the wiring and the light. It all works. I even earthed the pin directly, and the light came on.

I tested the alternator with IGN @ 12+, S disconnected and L didnt' work.
I also tested IGN @ 12+ and S @ 12+, and it also didn't work.

I didn't bother starting the motor at all, because I wasn't getting earth @ L under any normal condition so no point checking.

Is there some other point that I'm missing? I'm tipping I'm going to have to rip the alternator off the car and check out the insides to see what isn't connecting, is there anything else I can do before I go to that extent? It would require me pulling off a lot of stuff so I'd like to avoid it if I could...

[Sciflyer]

would that just be its "charge light" as thats essentially all the charge light is doing... ie. when the car isnt running the light stays on to say "the alternator isnt charging" and then once started goes away to say "the alternator is charging"

just my take on it... but if it previously didnt do it and after reconditioning it does it seems a little strange

Nah as Z30s dont have a charge light, what happens is you turn the ignition on and a message says "Charge" then you start the car and it runs through its little checks and says all good

But with this alternator as soon as you turn the ignition on you get a Bong (heheh) and the alternator not working message, but as soon as the car has started its fine

Maybe something is just out of spec... anyway this is Strads thread so better sort his problem out first

[TRD-12A]

If your gttimg nothing out of pin L on the alternator then your rectifier pack (diode pack) inside the alternator has had it and will need replacing

[madmont]

Sounds like you need a new regulator

[Supra967]

I didn't bother starting the motor at all, because I wasn't getting earth @ L under any normal condition so no point checking.

...

Isn't L only active with an electric field? (motor spinning)