http://www.filefactory.com/file/b069...300_Manual.pdf
don't take this guide as perfectly accurate as its meant for soarer's and might be differnt to your car
also shouldn't this thread be in the technical one not general car talk?
As they say in the book, assembly is the reverse of dismantling, but slower cos you forgot where all the bits are
Today I total rebuilt the top end of my motor every thing accept the heads
I hope I got all the water leaks.
is there anybody out there with an engine crank trigger disc they would cell me
for my Soarer motor 1uz-fe.
Actually I need the later model version with the 36 or 38 or so teeth. or even 12
ahhh the link to the file is in my last post... its the under lined bit
once your there scroll down in click this button
just be aware its a tricky manual to navigate as there is no index
As they say in the book, assembly is the reverse of dismantling, but slower cos you forgot where all the bits are
You want to be really sure you need to take the heads off before you do it
As you cant re-use the head bolts so you will be up for $$$ for a new set of bolts as well as head gaskets (These are cheap though, you can get complete top-end gasket sets for an engine off ebay for around $100)
Yes I agree the bolts are expensive.
I have changed all the water gaskets on the top of the motor and i am now reassembling it
will wait and see before i do heads I don't want to do the heads I hope all is good now
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Last edited by toranarod; 02-03-2010 at 04:00 PM.
Why do you wnat a different crank trigger?
I have a set of custom cam angle sensors that can replace all that toyota multi-tooth trickery if you like.
well I have changed all the top end seal and gasket. NOT the head Gaskets.
and no more water leaks engine all going again.
thanks for your help guys
smoke gets in your eyes
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