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Thread: 20V idle problems- Not the ISCV

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    Default 20V idle problems- Not the ISCV

    hi guys first of all is this the ISCV on the 20V(pic attached) i looked the part number up and it said it was but i want to make sure. if it is i have changed it which i got from my old 20V which was working fine and i also cleaned it.

    the idle stays at about 1400rpm-1800rpm when cold and then when it get just under half way it dramatically drops down to about 700rpm and when you get it any throttle it will just stall. also the temp get there quite fast you only have to be idling for less then 5 mins for it to get to just under the half way point on the temp gauge.the thermo fan kicks in on half way so i dont think it would have anything to do with that.

    i was told that the base idle may be to high and this could be the problem. if this is right how can i fix it?

    any advice would be very helpfull.
    ~MR2 GT with a big arse turbo + a 3sgte built tonka tuff = lota Fun~

  2. #2
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    Default Re: 20V idle problems- Not the ISCV

    has anybody have a idea?? or is there someone around the western sydney area that i could take the car to that will know what they are doing with a 20v
    ~MR2 GT with a big arse turbo + a 3sgte built tonka tuff = lota Fun~

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    AVGAS DRINKING Carport Converter 30psi 4agte's Avatar
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    Default Re: 20V idle problems- Not the ISCV

    Im just taking a pot shot here. But you say that the car warms up really quickly!!

    If the temp sensor was faulty and reading high it may drop the idle and turn fans on when the car is still cold (even though the gauge says its warm) Hence the car stalling like its still cold when you give it throttle.

    Base idle is the probabl cause. you will need to bridge out the idle terminal ( will need look up which one it is i cant remember) and then set the idle with the car in base mode.

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    Junior Member Carport Converter 4agte's Avatar
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    Default Re: 20V idle problems- Not the ISCV

    have you checked for error codes?

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    Default Re: 20V idle problems- Not the ISCV

    i havent tested for any error codes i think im going to have to take it to a mechenic see what they can do about it... is there someone that anyone could recommend that wouldnt cost to much money and is around penrith to sydney area.
    ~MR2 GT with a big arse turbo + a 3sgte built tonka tuff = lota Fun~

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    Default Re: 20V idle problems- Not the ISCV

    or is there somewhere or someone that can give me some instructions for setting the base idle and are there any risks invoved in doing this.??
    ~MR2 GT with a big arse turbo + a 3sgte built tonka tuff = lota Fun~

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    Junior Member Chief Engine Builder wiso's Avatar
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    Default Re: 20V idle problems- Not the ISCV

    yeah to set base idle you usually open the diagnostic box, grond the ecu line, Usually T1 to E, this will put the engine into base mode, then you adjust the idle scre on the side of the throttle body until you are happy with the rpm it idles, on most engines about 600-700, not sure about the 20V though.

    can't see any risks, just count how many full turns you do so you can turn it back if needed.
    89' MR2 AW11... His
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    AVGAS DRINKING Carport Converter 30psi 4agte's Avatar
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    Default Re: 20V idle problems- Not the ISCV

    The only risk is MAKE sure you bridge out the correct terminal or else bye bye ecu: mad:

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    Junior Member Chief Engine Builder wiso's Avatar
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    Default Re: 20V idle problems- Not the ISCV

    if your base idle is fine, a few other things it could be is the temp sensor, maybe grab a multi meter and as its heating up take note of what the resistances are, then compare them to that in a manual, that should give you an indication if its faulty.

    or a little bit of a long shot, i was having major idle issues a while back, where it would idle normal when warming but once it got hot you tap the throttle it would stall. the suggestions i got was set base idle, temp sensor, cold start temp sensor, iscv, but whatr it was in the end was the 2 transistors iunt he ecu that control the iscv (one for up idle, one for down idle) one of them had snapped off at the legs, this can happen because the transistors are only mounted in by their legs and after a while the vibration can do this.
    89' MR2 AW11... His
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  10. #10
    Junior Member Chief Engine Builder wiso's Avatar
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    Default Re: 20V idle problems- Not the ISCV

    Quote Originally Posted by 30psi 4agte
    The only risk is MAKE sure you bridge out the correct terminal or else bye bye ecu: mad:
    the only way you would do that would be if you bridged a power line to the ecu line, you don't even need to go to an earth line int he box, you can just jump the ecu line to the chassis and it works
    89' MR2 AW11... His
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    Default Re: 20V idle problems- Not the ISCV

    ok then guys ill give the base idle ago and hopefully this will fix the problem!!
    ~MR2 GT with a big arse turbo + a 3sgte built tonka tuff = lota Fun~

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    Default Re: 20V idle problems- Not the ISCV

    Quote Originally Posted by wiso
    the only way you would do that would be if you bridged a power line to the ecu line, you don't even need to go to an earth line int he box, you can just jump the ecu line to the chassis and it works
    What im getting at is if you earth out the wrong pin.
    earthing out a pin that has power can cause probs

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    Default Re: 20V idle problems- Not the ISCV

    on the diagnostic box on the AFM i have a E1 and a Tt are these the correct ones???
    ~MR2 GT with a big arse turbo + a 3sgte built tonka tuff = lota Fun~

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    Default Re: 20V idle problems- Not the ISCV

    sorry is it TE1
    ~MR2 GT with a big arse turbo + a 3sgte built tonka tuff = lota Fun~

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    Default Re: 20V idle problems- Not the ISCV

    also do i have to set the base mode when the car is at a normal temperature not at a cold temperature is this correct.
    ~MR2 GT with a big arse turbo + a 3sgte built tonka tuff = lota Fun~

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