Thanks for the info from that forum, Admiral coFF33.
Moving the rod in towards the master cylinder helped resolve my problem, too!
BK.
well i managed to sort this out
by re-bleeding the master + slave for around 20 mins using a syphon tecnique there was ever so SLIGHT bubbles in it still
i then adjusted the rod on the back of the pedal to raise the pedal height.
WD40 was needed , but once applied the rod was moveable by finger power.
Pedal is now useable, but not perfect. it can now has around 150mm of engagement (if you know what i mean) which is enough to be safe.
Very happy with results and looks like i shouldnt have panic'ed so much
Thanks for the info from that forum, Admiral coFF33.
Moving the rod in towards the master cylinder helped resolve my problem, too!
BK.
im just gonna bump this up
coz its gotten worse again
My master is not leaking, but the pedal feal and pressure is absolute shit.
I think when no pressure is on the pedal (ie. ive taken my foot off it) the pedal sits from the floor about 35mm
the rest of the pedals sit 60-70mm off the floor and have normal feel to them
Can anyone tell me why my clutch is soooo hard to push and so annoyingly low point for the engage/disengage
What can i check that i aint done already?
Would a new slave cyl maybe help ? seeing as i bought a new master?
Clutch fork cracked & flexing?
Nothing else besides the pedal height and the MC freeplay, in that order.
The old slave will either leak or not leak and unless your problem is air in the system needing frequent bleeding & top up, or a clutch that slowly engages while your foot is still planted on the floor, a new slave won't make any difference.
Clutch fork cracked & flexing?
'I've scrapped better.' John stated when asked about the car by the guy with the silver tipped cowboy boots!
checked it over the weekend during engine transplant fork and bearing is fine.
also, the clutch was changed from the exceedy (which also had same issues) to a stock clutch (that came with teh new 1GGTE)
so its not clutch related
if i could describe it even better id say this
The clutch in a normal car has a somewhat "bounce back" to it. it also is very light and easy to push down with the "bite" point say mid way through the push, The push range from all the way up, to floor of the car is generally 120 - 130mm or so
My w55 clutch:
There is basically NO bounce back, if there is its only the pressure from the master cyl pushing back ever so slightly. fully released its ~50mm off the floor, The bite point is ~20mm off the floor, when pushing it down the 50mm its VERY hard and stiff to push.
im gonna replace slave this arvo and bleed again
will post progress
How did you go coff? It still all sounds like it's not bled properly.
Teh UZA80 - Project Century - Remotely p00'd by association
sounds like you need a new clutch pressure plate.
I have the same issue with my ST162
I have changed the master cyl and slave cyl, and the whole clutch line inbetween. Even tried winding out the clutch spring all the way.
nothing has fixed it - so has to be something inside the gearbox
drop the gearbox out this weekend and add a new clutch kit - should be right as rain
Damo
83 GA61 Toyota Supra XX [TRD 83] - 7MGTE Turbo-A inside
83 KE70 Toyota Corolla - the budget build
94 EF Ford Fairmont Ghia [FATFORD] - looks tough, goes slow
64 Chev Impala - west coast lowrider
i had issues somewhat similar to yours... the pedal would only spring back about 50% of the way and ground into gears
did turn out to be the pedal adjustment... only did it until i had full travel again and it worked a treat... kinda irrelevant to you thoughn![]()
Teh UZA80 - Project Century - Remotely p00'd by association
VVVV
But thanks damo
Ryley : The pedal has been adjusted to the maximum point with the 12mm bolt in the back of it (that is essentially the plunger for the master) if i adjust it anymore the bolt/nut fall out
I put a brand new slave on yesterday arvo, bled it for around 30 mins , i was using clear tube so i was 200% certain there was NO bubbles left in the fluid
The slave i got fits fine and its not to short or long, When compressed it does push out to the maximum (~40-45mm)
The clutch is still the same
Pedal is still hard which is ok , but is still engage/disengage right at the floor
So now:
replaced clutch
master cyl
slave cyl
bled system ~8 times
maybe its just something i have to live with![]()
Stupid question. But is the clutch fork that you are using the correct one for that bellhousing? I remember reading somewhere about a very similar issue and it turned out he was using the wrong fork.
I can't imagine you've made this mistake coFF33, but if this helps at all, then mission accomplished.Otherwise I just sound like an idiot.
![]()
Good call Phoenix, im completely unsure about that
Stomps said the box was factory manual W55 , so i dont think anything would have changed re:Bearing/Fork ..
but ill pm him and ask .
yeah dude.. factory w55... was behind a 1gge in the gz10 i got... all we changed is add a T...
we didnt change the fork or anything like that... it all worked perfectly when i had it...
apart from the clutch that was in it from factory lasting exactly 1 drive before failing...
the only issue we had was that the bearing didnt come with the exedy clutch i got.. it was missing for some reason and doing it at about 10pm, we couldnt exactly wait to get another one.. so we reused the factory one... still worked fine though..
Stomps
Yeah i know bro
and when i drove your GZ10 in and outta my driveway once i got it home
the clutch felt amazing like the one in my JZZ20.
but now
no
Hmm oh well figured I should suggest it. Back to the drawing board then I guess.
It just started to sound like a leverage issue (lack of it). Short effective travel, and hard to push.
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