RA23 Differential

[RAAAH23]

Hey guys ive been up to no good lately and have stuffed my diff in the RA (see avatar )


Now ive gotten mixed answers as what could be wrong.

First of all the left side wheel has been leaking diff fluid since the skids i was doing. It leaking from the seal between the back of the drum and the connection where the diff meets it. Now its not just a slight leak, its leaking quite abit have i bent somthing or has the seal just gone?


Second when ever the axle rotates the diff tries to lift up towards the body inturn the axle moves up and hits the badly run exahust. Its as if the diff centre is catching on a gear, then the force of the motor will over come the caught up gear until it does a whole revolution and catches on the same gear again. Is this the result of a lack of fluid from the leak on the left wheel?

My main questions to you guys are..

Will it be sufficient to just replace the seals between the drum and diff and change the diff centre (one on fleabay now) or have i done more damgage than is reapairable to the original diff within a $300 dollar budget.

Eventually id like to do an engine conversion hopefully 1J but a 1G will suffice for now. What would be a suitable diff conversion to handle a relativly stock 1J and approximatly how much would it cost compared to just a T series replacment/repair.


Thanks alot guys you have come through in the past with advice and im sure you guys will this time too.



EDIT: The car cannot be driven in its current condition. The diff prevents any forward or reverse motion. I have to push it everywhere much like the flinstones

[timbosaurus]

option A) pick up a complete t-series from a wreck ($100) and drive around with that till you do the conversion. If you have a bit more mechanical sympathy, it will last. But where is the fun in that.

option B) go a conversion now. If you can grind, and are good with a welder, and have a few spare days, you should be able to do the conversion yourself, in which case it costs you no more than the cost of a donor diff ($1-300 depending on where you look, and what you get). Doing it yourself, you have to accept the fact that you *may* bend the diff like a banana and have to get it straightened. Also bear in mind you'll also need a shortened tailshaft in most instances, which I wouldn't suggest you do yourself. Budget around $500 all up if you do everything you can yourself, or $1500 for someone else to do the diff/tailshaft.

[auto351]

I would agree with Tim, sounds more that just replacing seals to get this going again.
put the new/reco diff in.

[RAAAH23]

so the diff centre off ebay will do me no good?

is there a particular model car with a t series? eg ae86, ke70 ect.. or does it have to be from a celica

[MWP]

Youll want a TA23/RA23/RA28 diff.
I believe they are all the same.

Shouldnt be too difficult to find one.
Even ask in the wanted forum here, someone might have one lying around.

[twentyEight]

is there a particular model car with a t series? eg ae86, ke70 ect.. or does it have to be from a celica

Note: ADM AE86 has an S Series diff (I think this changed on the later ADM models, but not completely sure), and KE70/AE71 has a Borg Warner.


Are you sure you blew the centre and have not completely snapped an axle?

If you're getting the whole diff, you should get a T Series from a Celica to guarantee the mounts suit, if you're only getting a centre (again are you sure it's a blown centre?), then you need to know the info below before you get the wrong one.

There is 2 main T Series diffs, Zenki and Kouki.

Zenki is the early T Series diffs that are found in the late TA22 (early TA22 has D Series), TA23, RA23, RA28, RA40, early JDM AE86, TE72 (T18), and several others.

Kouki is the T Series found in late JDM AE86.

The axles are different in the two, and therefore the centres are different to suit.