i think its 28mm man, double check that tho.
I need to get the flange off the face of the g-series diff I've got.
I had a look tonight, and the only size that can possibly describe the nut that's in there is 'fuck-off'....
It's huge, and well beyond anything I have.
So I can go out and spend a bit more money on shit I'll only ever use once, does anyone know what size it is so I can get the right socket?
i think its 28mm man, double check that tho.
i dont have a funny or cool signature.
The ones I have are 30mm
Jealousy is a curse
Crap. AH well, I've bought a 29mm socket this morning, guess I'll try it out and see how i go.
Thanks for your input guys.
Will be the same as a front hub nut. 30mm.
Yeah, i measured this morning, 30mm
-Chris | Garage takai - Breaking cars since 1998
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Crap. Back to bunnings I go. Thanks guys..
So I get the socket
Get under the c*nt of a thing.
And look. Closely. They have 'scored' the nut against the thread so the lip of the nut is bent inwards towards the thread so it won't come off......
If I try to bend the lip of the nut out it'll score the thread and I can't spin the nut anyway..
Why the fuck must they do things like this, and how am I supposed to undo it?
Now that i have a dirty great fuck off 30mm socket that I might as well use.
sorry about the 28mm. with those punch lock nuts, i just undo them and it will turn it self out, then when you tighten it up again use a punch to bend it back in.
i dont have a funny or cool signature.
Oh is that what it is???
Crap, and here I was swearing and trying to pry it open with a screw driver....
So someone has to have their foot on the brake yeah? to help you turn it off?
yeh, they do it on stub axles too.
a good handbrake should hold it, or put 2 bolts in the flange bolt holes and get a pry bar (or anything that will fit between those bolts) to hold it while you undo the nut, if you dont have someone to hold the brake.
are you just changing the seal or are you rebuilding the diff ?, becuase theres a collapsible spacer on the pinion you have to tighten up correctly.
Last edited by fixeruperer; 10-09-2009 at 09:23 PM.
i dont have a funny or cool signature.
just pulling the flange off to get it redrilled, is that complicated?
not complicated but theres a process.
mark the nut and the end of the pinion, then when you undo the nut, count the turns of the nut untill off. when you put it back together counting the turns to the exact same amount and align your marks up then just a tiny bit more to make sure its tight (the tiniest bit say no more than 5 degrees).
i dont have a funny or cool signature.
If you remove that nut you will have to fit a new crush tube. Otherwise there is no bearing preload and your diff will last a few months only.
Really?
And what's a crush tube? No such thing came out of my diff center.
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