GUIDE - 85amp EA Falcon Alternator onto 18R or T series engines

[The Witzl]

Thanks for adding to this guide!
Always happy to hear other people having success with this mod.

[roadkill]

Hi,

I did this last year on my 2F powered fj40 landcruiser. Worked a charm. Thanks again!

bEn

[The Witzl]

i just re-uploaded all pics to my original post..... so you can actually see things again!

[daddylux]

I can run my sub, headlights, windscreen wipers and hazzards with only a little voltage drop, Before it would struggle with headlights and wipers O__o

Marcus,

I am doing this to the 18RC and the charge light stays on. Can you tell me what colour wires you ran the S and L wires from the alternator to on the six pin plug. I have the L hooked up to the charge warning light which is yellow white but I think the S is hooked up wrongly to the alternator battery (B+) connection.

Your help would be appreciated and nice bracket.

[JadeEstevez]

What I did was ran a completely new wire from the alternator to the back of the charge light, If you don't the charge light stays on. I'm unsure of why but that solved the problem =)

Thank's, tried making the bracket look nice ;P

[daddylux]

What I did was ran a completely new wire from the alternator to the back of the charge light

Thanks Marcus for the fast reply. Did you run the wire to the charge light from the Alternator B+ terminal which charges the battery of one of the two wires marked S and L?

Cheers

[The Witzl]

The charge light on your dash will already have one side going to IGN 12V, and the other side needs to go to the "L" terminal on the Bosch alternator (the charge light terminal).
Its that simple.

[JadeEstevez]

^^ what he said =P Wasn't quick enough that time hehe.

[daddylux]

Here is my theory on the charge light. If you have continued to use the old battery charge lead in place with the new alternator, the charge light circuit contines to receive the necessary amps to regiter a charge is being sent to the battery. If you take the battery charge lead out of the circuit and upgrade to a new cable, this causes the charge light circuit to not sense a charge even though the alternator is charging.

My reason for this is that when I upgraded the cable, I lost my parking, brake and dash lights and also the heater which is the circuit the charge light is on. When i reconnected the battery side of the old battery charge lead, All those things came back on. So I figure that if I reconnect the alternator side of the battery charge lead, the charge light should sense the amps coming through and turn off.

If anyone has upgrade the alternator and not the charge lead, they should not have had any issues with the charge light. I've been know to be wrong though.

[JadeEstevez]

That's not the case with RA40's =/ For some reason even using the old wiring the charge light will stay on...

[The Witzl]

I never upgraded the charge light wire. No need to, because you can connect to it very easily from the 6 pin plug where the old external voltage regulator connected.

I might look and the ke70 and give pinouts. Would be the same as ra28 I assume.

[JadeEstevez]

^ I tried that =P Didn't work for me, hehe. Had to bypass the regulator wiring altogether.

[The Witzl]

If it didn't work you did it wrong.
If everything was working brfore the upgrade, then picking to correct wires from that 6 pin plug will guarantee it to work post upgrade.

I can't check on my ke70 cos that wiring was removed already.

[JadeEstevez]

Yes but there is a lot of Electrical thats been messed with in my car before I bought it =P

[TSW_ra40]

On my 18rc I got my amp re round 4 200 now iv got 150 amps!