GUIDE - 85amp EA Falcon Alternator onto 18R or T series engines

[Turdinator]

yes. be careful doing it though and use a puller.
turd : pics? please

Give me till the weekend and i'll post some pics. My car has a V section belt not a micro v or serpintine belt. The EA's had the V belt but from EB on there was the micro v or serpintine belt.

[o_man_ra23]

it was micro v. And you dont need a puller to get them off... simple hit with a light weight rattle gun will cure the nut, and then it should just about fall off. Its the power steering pumps that are press fit on.

Cheers, Owen

[thechuckster]

just to add some info and two queries to the thread:
- rather than live with limited adjustment on the arm, i just cut the original end off and extended it by welding on another adjustment section (from wilbo's donor MZ10) onto the end and i can continue using any belt i want.


query 1: how did you wire up 'L' to the charge light? via a charge-light relay or directly to the wire going back to the cabin? (going to an RA40 dash)

query 2: what voltages are you getting at the alternator (the B terminal)? I put a ammeter between the B terminal and the the white cable and got decent and stable current output (about 10-15A at 1400rpm) but the voltages on my $10 meter were >15V. I'll recheck with a more accurate meter - but i'm pretty sure my meter is reasonably close.

The alt came out of an EA (i think) but is only rated at 70A - i'll post the part number during daylight.

[The Witzl]

wired up the charge light directly to the factory charge light wire. From factory on both cars the charge light has IGN 12V going to one side, and the other goes to the alternator - such that when the voltage output of the alternator drops, the charge light glows.

I get around 13.5V at 800rpm idle, and around 14.4V above 1400rpm.

Check the voltage your megasquirt is reading thru megatune

[thechuckster]

dang... it is wired up right ... and with a replacement regulator, the charge light is still glowing red. Megatune was showing around the 14.5V mark.. so god knows what the problem is.

I've got 12V (Ign switched) at the S pin and when running this thing is shoving out !~15 amps out at fast idle (now ~1400rpm) and holding output voltage to about 14.4-14.7 volts (this is measured at the alternator).

I put a multimeter on the output of the L pin and there's bugger-all voltage and all that i can detect is that resistance to ground changes when it's charging sorry, can't remember igures .. this was from much earlier tonight) - and this is with both regulators.

The voltage from the Alt light is about 5V out in the engine bay - i'm assuming the resistance of the alt light is doing that.

When i disconnect the 12V going to the S pin, current output drops to nothing... so the regulator is doing it's job, but the S output is way wrong... still.


I did some detective work on bosch data on alternators... as mine is not from an EA (despite being found in one) .. and found this PDF on their australian site:

One the casing of the alternator you should have something (below the bosch part number) like:
K1 --> 14V 14/85A

the K1 is the Alternator case size/type
the (?) is the direction of rotation (e.g. clockwise)
the 14V is the alternator voltage
the 14 is the current at 1800rpm
the 85A is the current at the max rpm of the unit (usually 6000rpm)

Now the PDF i found had these in the index of alternators (the BXF## is the part number:
BXF1255 FORD6 Cyl - Fairlane, Falcon/Fairmont, LTD K1 > 14V 14/85A (*)
BXF1257 FORD6 Cyl - Falcon/Fairmont K1 > 14V 14/85A (*)
BXF1259 FORD6 Cyl - Fairlane, Falcon/Fairmont, LTD K1 > 14V 14/85A

the (*) being my annotation for it being the ideal donor unit.

Mine has: K1 -->14V 17/70A - so it's a dodgy replacement in the wreck for starters.

The bosch index says this could come from a:
BXM1231 MITSUBISHI Magna
BXN1231 HOLDEN 6 Cyl - Commodore / NISSANSkyline
BXT1250 TOYOTA Camry

The detailed part of the PDF says this Magna would be TN carbi model ('87-'89) or VL Commode 6cyl ('84-86) or a Camry SV11 thru to SCD10 ('83-'95) - but maybe mine has had a different pulley put on it to suit the Ford belt.

The replacement regulator has these markings on it:
9 190 067 019
EP14V4
if someone could compare this to a proper ford alternator i'd greatly appreciate it.

cheers and tia,
Charles

[barned01]

pictures no workies witzl or is it just me?

[LeeRoy]

Not working for me either. I think witzls site where theyre hosted is down or not hosting those pics anymore.

[The Witzl]

yeah witzl.com died....

.... all fixed now - everything is reloaded onto 18rg.com.au

[smokem1]

Hey witzl or anyone else,

I found an EA/EB alternator on ebay, just wondering if any of you guys could please check it out for me and let me know if you think it will suit this conversion. Ive compared the shitty pictures of it with witzls alternator but still am unsure, i noticed the leg spacing is 3mm shorter.

it is ebay item #190092190441


cheers

[The Witzl]

you can use that one... but you will have to change the pulley.

The whole idea of this conversion is that the EA alternator is fucken cheap from wreckers

[smokem1]

you can use that one... but you will have to change the pulley.

The whole idea of this conversion is that the EA alternator is fucken cheap from wreckers

dude i live in Darwin, can't find an 85A alternator anywhere, even if i could find one it will cost nearly as much as this ebay one. I'm tellin ya u southerners get it good.

[o_man_ra23]

smokem, get one of the southerners to find ya one

Witzl, If I get this RA28, would you help a brother out??

Cheers, Owen

[The Witzl]

what am i doing now??

[o_man_ra23]

I hope your at pickies gettin me a $20 EA alternator

Cheers, Owen

[The Witzl]

honestly man - i havent got the time to even fix the fuel leak in my celica... so getting to pickies isnt very doable at the moment

Sorry