GUIDE - 85amp EA Falcon Alternator onto 18R or T series engines

[The Witzl]

Ig wire should go to IGN 12V+

[Invid]

IGN 12+ on the alternator?

[Invid]

Let me clarify my confusion. According to wiring diagrams (http://khi-santh.canberracelica.org/files/ta22.pdf) this wire originates at the Ignition, so surely it would not then go back to the ignition? Should this wire just be ignored?

[roadkill]

Hi,

yes, for the alternator to work it needs 12v to it from the battery, you typically run this 12v through a "charge light" and when the alternator is charging then the side that was grounding it will become an active 12v and your charge light will go out. If you don't run that 12v to it then the alternator most likely won't work.

bEn

[Invid]

Wiring is all sorted and the car is starting and running great, but... When the engine is turned off it's blowing my fusible link. The fusible link is only 30A, so is it ok to upgrade it to an 80A or 100A, or is this spiking symptomatic of a problem with my alternator and/or wiring?

[Bazooka]

I am attempting to do this type of conversion on my RT104. The original alternator is a bosch unit with internal regulator but only has a D+ terminal other than the battery post. There is no plug on the regulator so no S or L terminals. The new alternator has a suppressor on the D+ terminal. The old unit had the suppressor on the battery post. I have no idea how to wire this up? HELP!

[t18]

This was a good post as i did this because my t18 is voltage hungry but then even 85amps wasnt enough i had to order a mechman from the states 300amp alt and this is why i need that much power Window Shake - Toyota T18 Corolla - Window Flex - Big Bass - Monster - YouTube but if i didnt have all that power to run this post is great conversion and much cheaper then my mechman.

[t18]

any 3tgteu's

[dawei]

Hi there looking at doing this conversion to my 3tgte, can anyone tell me if an alternator off a 3.9L EA Falcon would be 85A?
I found an auction for one http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-...-636465633.htm but the guy says there's nothing written on it.

[roadkill]

Mate i've got one here i'm no longer using in brisbane. Lemme know if you're keen

bEn

[solja]

hey guys sorry to bring up old thread but im about to do this and want to check what i got is what I need.




So its from an EA got it for $50 and its obviously a Mitsu one not a bosch like has been talking about. All I'll need to do is shave off the mount and be all sweet, expect to have only small amount of tensioning ability? am i on track. Im not worried bout grinding off my mount. im worried about having the right stuff at hand to finish the job once i start i dont want it to be another half job that's my speciality haha trying to over plan this bugger !!

[king-szeitszam]

Solja

The mounting tabs will be the same which is really what counts. You only need to shave one of the mounts and you can use washers if you take off a little too much.
You do have the 70amp version but that's no big deal. As long as it works you should be on the right track- it's really not a hard job you just need to get in there and you'll figure it out.

The only issue you should run into is the deflection is severely reduced with the new alternator but as the original article says you can overcome this by using a smaller belt.

[solja]

thanks mate. yes the 70amp was what was available without hunting and farting around trying to source a larger one, it also was off the vehicle and ready to go so I did absolutely nothing. Our car is also going to be used as a rally car and isn't going to ever be asking the alternator for much. so like you said providing it runs it will do the job. I also figured if it doesn't, the mod will be done and hunting down a ford alternator is much more likely than a celica one. cheers we plan to attack this job on sunday hopefully

[ra_28]

I see there hasn't been any real solution to the warning lamp without rewiring the circuit?

I was reading about the "L" circuit and it needed a minimum of a 2w globe for the circuit to work correctly on the bosch alternator with in the GT style gauges these only have a T5 1.2W wedge globe. I started playing around with different ohm resistors in parallel with the globe to see what would happen. First off I tried a 40ohm resistor this made a huge difference to the lamination but still had a defiant glow. I then tried a 27ohm, 22ohm and a 10ohm resistor. The 27ohm and 22ohm still had a vey faint glow but with the 10ohm the light was completely off.

With the ignition on and engine not running I still have my light, yes it's not as bright as before but still very noticeable.

Sorry these photos aren't the best quality.

Before the resistor engine running



After the 10ohm resistor fitted, engine running



Engine off, ignition on, 10ohm resistor fitted



Resistor fitted



Resistor used



Alex

[GT1978]

I haven't got around to confirming my charge light issue but I am now suspecting it is related to voltage losses through my ignition wiring. I think my 37 year old wiring and plugs are creating a voltage drop to the ignition side of the globe giving reverse current like in an overcharging situation. I've checked my charging voltages are fine however when I switch on dash related accessories the charge light gets brighter even though the charging voltage is still good. My next attempt to fix the light will be to go through all the dash connectors and clean all the terminals as well as check the fuse panel connections etc. Another indicating symptom I am seeing is guages loosing power and needles dropping to zero then comming back up while driving. I'll also be checking any grounds I find when the dash is out.

Glen.