Strength Of the Soarer 1JZ Auto

[TasCressida]

Hey Guys.


My auto has shat its self. its a JZZ30 Soarer auto.
ive just pushed 308.1rwkw thru it and its died.
The auto is stock with a stock convertor. "apparently" has an MV autos basic shift kit fitted. Its running a PWR Auto cooler up front. The auto has done 130XXX k's.
And it was perfect on 230 rwkw untill i had it tuned for over 300.
i know its a massive difference in power but it took 3 days of normal driving with a few squirts along the highway to kill it. pulling out it sunday and replacing it.

Im replacing it with a 2JZGE auto from a half cut thats done 60XXX's
not many k's i know but the half cut was landed here localy in 2003 for a mate and not used. Hence low k's.

is it gunna suffer the same fate with only fairly normal driving?
i was told by an auto expert that the reason my old one died was a failed Oil Pump in the auto. but hes no expert on imported boxes... jus the fact that the A340 is used in many cars and suffer this. its got me worried lol.

Im not sure what to think.

i have a 1JZ auto coming as a spare in 2 weeks which im sending to MV for a stage 3 build. but i need the car to drive in the meen time. The new auto wont be ready for a few months as its a costly exercise on my wage.

any insight would be good and much appreciated.

cheers

PS- i wan to run the cars at the drags next year so im staying auto. lol

[woggin]

if the pump in the box ceased, it wouldnt of mattered how much power you were putting through it, it was gonna cease either way.

There are a few different variations of the AXXX series gearbox, i am sure they can't all suffer from the problem, i'd put it down to the shear power you were putting through it, did you ask the box expert wat caused the pump to die?? (broken fins, bent shaft) that'll really help you out as to what caused the box to die.

one thing that could of done it was too much load, not sure if you know but on the throttle body there are two cables, one is the throttle pedal and the other (in some cars, e.g gz20 soarer) controls how aggressive the box shifts, usually by increasing line pressure through the valve train (i think its called) and in some gearboxes if the computer (for the box) detects a overall increasing in pressure for a long time, it'll shut the pump off because it thinks something is wrong, which ultimately will leave you on the side of the road, so thats another thing worth looking into!

hope that helps
wog

[Z2TT]

Woggin don't you mean the kickdown cable? doesn't that just let the box know when your on WOT to shift a gear down for better acceleration?

[1JZ-Rolla]

In 1976 on a ford falcon it would be for kickdown perhaps yes

Woggin is correct, on the early JZ soarer trans, the second cable controls line pressure within the auto box.

TasCressida: I can't really answer any more than what's been said here already, but can you tell me what actually happened from in the car when the gearbox died? No drive, couldn't select gears, stuck in gear, not really sure what actually happens with them (and hoping to not have the same problem anytime soon )

Cheers

[EDIT] BTW, nice result with over 300kw!

[TWENTY B]

is this the same box that is used behind the 1uz in celsiors and soarers

[1JZ-Rolla]

no, there are differences in the number of clutches on certain gears, plus manual (cable) line pressure control as opposed to electronic PWM solenoid for the 1UZ.

[TWENTY B]

but, housing , gearset etc is?
same family of box but not identicle..?

[TasCressida]

hey 1JZROLLA

i list some of the symptoms that suddenly appeared... like instantly. was driving fine. stopped took off again and it started going rather emo.

- Can take off but only starts to move properly after about 4000 rpm ...and when u do it feels like droppng a clutch in a manual.

-when it does move eventually it doesnt change up or down gear. feels like its stuck in second.

- when the car is sitting still in neutral the box makes funny buzzing noises lol.

another strange thing is that yesterday i warmed it up from cold for only 2 mins then threw it drive and took off. changed gears and drove fone for about 10 mins of constant driving. up hills and from standing starts. then all of a sudden when the car was warm the transmission died again. thank god i didnt venture far from home in it.

so i have no idea.

hope fully the 2JZGE box doesnt decide to do this.

cheers

btw- thanks for the 300 comment. feels nice to finally crack it!

[1JZ-Rolla]

Cool TasMan, thanks for describing that. I've broken manual boxes but had no idea what the symptoms of a dud auto were. Sounds nasty when it all goes wrong!

[EldarO]

Hey Guys.


My auto has shat its self. its a JZZ30 Soarer auto.
ive just pushed 308.1rwkw thru it and its died.
The auto is stock with a stock convertor. "apparently" has an MV autos basic shift kit fitted. Its running a PWR Auto cooler up front. The auto has done 130XXX k's.
And it was perfect on 230 rwkw untill i had it tuned for over 300.
i know its a massive difference in power but it took 3 days of normal driving with a few squirts along the highway to kill it. pulling out it sunday and replacing it.

Im replacing it with a 2JZGE auto from a half cut thats done 60XXX's
not many k's i know but the half cut was landed here localy in 2003 for a mate and not used. Hence low k's.

is it gunna suffer the same fate with only fairly normal driving?
i was told by an auto expert that the reason my old one died was a failed Oil Pump in the auto. but hes no expert on imported boxes... jus the fact that the A340 is used in many cars and suffer this. its got me worried lol.

Im not sure what to think.

i have a 1JZ auto coming as a spare in 2 weeks which im sending to MV for a stage 3 build. but i need the car to drive in the meen time. The new auto wont be ready for a few months as its a costly exercise on my wage.

any insight would be good and much appreciated.

cheers

PS- i wan to run the cars at the drags next year so im staying auto. lol

dude, id hate to be the bearer of bad news, but it sounds as if this car is your daily (you need it to get around)

im gonna be public enemy #1 here and say that maybe the issue your having is that you cant afford to run a car like this on a daily basis.

cheap fast reliable, pick two, rings true here, i think the mistake you made was getting your DAILY driven car retuned to 400rwhp, not the strength of the box.

turn your boost down, get a box built in the mean time, and you wont have a weird feeling in your gut of worry everytime you put your foot down.

theres no way in flying pigshit hell a standard auto will survive at 400rwhp.

[Robbos_Toyotas]

hey 1JZROLLA

i list some of the symptoms that suddenly appeared... like instantly. was driving fine. stopped took off again and it started going rather emo.

- Can take off but only starts to move properly after about 4000 rpm ...and when u do it feels like droppng a clutch in a manual.

-when it does move eventually it doesnt change up or down gear. feels like its stuck in second.

- when the car is sitting still in neutral the box makes funny buzzing noises lol.

another strange thing is that yesterday i warmed it up from cold for only 2 mins then threw it drive and took off. changed gears and drove fone for about 10 mins of constant driving. up hills and from standing starts. then all of a sudden when the car was warm the transmission died again. thank god i didnt venture far from home in it.

so i have no idea.

hope fully the 2JZGE box doesnt decide to do this.

cheers

btw- thanks for the 300 comment. feels nice to finally crack it!

that buzzing sound is common, my old ma70 used to do that all the time, i think it may be the oil pump working???

[TasCressida]

lol eld

yeah its not daily but i always planned on going the MV auots box. have a dirty commodre for daily duties lol. just happened so soon ... thought it would have deteriorated rather than have the biscuit straight up. it gave no sign of slipping.
a dual stage boost controller is gunna be fitted till the coin allows for the new tough box in a couple of months time.
i know here ur coming from though. it was a dialy basicly cause i shelved the commodre cause i loved the car so much .lol
its just a toy now. gunna make it reliable so i can drive it as often as possible.
fitting a 2JZGE box for the mean time. its a lot lower k's so hope fully it will be good for the odd drive and a qucik squirt once in a blue moon. for a few dyno queen runs etc aswell.
then i plan on taking to the drags so i can do a wite up on how long it takes smash in ..... im guessing a few nice launches on the stock convertor will pull it up haha.
will be good to see what times i can pull on a stock box aswell.

cheers

[Z2TT]

Maybe you could call MV Automatics, they might have a clue on how much the stock box can handle.
Just wondering on the 1jz auto what bits are ussually upgraded when strengthening the box to handle more power?
I know the shift kit is a modified valve body, but is there anything else that is done to allow the box to handle more power?

[PlacentaJuan]

Maybe you could call MV Automatics, they might have a clue on how much the stock box can handle.
Just wondering on the 1jz auto what bits are ussually upgraded when strengthening the box to handle more power?
I know the shift kit is a modified valve body, but is there anything else that is done to allow the box to handle more power?

+1 michael has allways been very helpful, and he allways seems to have time to give advice on the phone (dont know how he finds the time)

from what i have heard, the 300rwkw mark is when the stock box starts to really feel the strain so i wouldnt say it is unexpected that is happened.

your not really going to get a cheap and easy option in auto anyway and i wouldnt be thrashing the car much until you have a strengthened box installed

[1JZ-Rolla]

"Stock" box doesn't refer to just bolting in a standard A340... more a reference to the internal bands & clutches, which still won't last at all if you haven't upgraded the valve body to stop the massive amounts of heat generated on sluggish upshifts.

Tasdude, you're pushing sh*t uphill to expect to be able to try and hold that power down even for a few passes at the drags, even if its just in the interim while a proper box is built. What will it prove?