oil coolers - options

[SuperDave]

people seem to recommend sandwich style thermostats for oil coolers with the sensor ports in them. i see what you mean about before/after temps, that could be some interesting info but isnt that the thermostat's job? i mean whether you know the before temp vs after or not, once the oil is swirling around through the system and the thermostat is doing its job that should be that...

I had two sensors in three of the holes, so figured why not spend $20 and get another sensor to plug the third hole with. I never really intended to have before and after temps, I just did it because I could; it does have the side effect of allowing me to see if the thermostat is working without removing it.

Nothing wrong with the sandwich adapter thermostat, I just couldn't find any at the time that also had sensor holes in them.

[takai]

You shouldnt be measuring the oil temp as it leaves the cooler anyway. Well you can but its a spurious reading. I would be measuring the oil temps in the sump, preferably just before the pickup.

[RyleyMA61]

I had the same problem as you- my supra was getting too hot on the track (I saw oil temp of nearly 150) with the standard bleed-type oil cooler

I got all my stuff through motorsport connections, a sandwhich plate with thermostat (can't have the oil getting too cold), all the lines and speedflow -8 or -10 fittings. It is about (from memory) 300mm B x 250mm D x 60mm T in size.

The oil cooler was just a relatively cheap one, but mounted it properly in the front grille and has been very good since then. Highway driving used to net nearly 130deg temps but now barely hits 90.

That said my temp sender is right next to my turbo drain hose, so the oil could be a bit hotter coming from there.

That said, for the white car I'm getting a standard sandwhich plate and an RX7 oil cooler with a built-in thermostat to save costs. The RX7 one is a decent size and will be mounted in direct airflow.

Other than that everyone has covered everything anyway

[YLD-16L]

here are the PWR cores i was talking about:

both of these examples are bar/plate, the black one is "close mesh" the silver one is "high fin", ive got absolutely no idea as to which one is more efficient or suitable...

The one I run looks the same as the silver one i.e. "high fin".

Just ask PWR which one is better for your application, they should know

As for hose I run Aero quip in -10 and all speedflow 400 series fittings, works a treat. The Aeroquip and Gates hoses comes in black and blue, the Aero quip costs a little bit more but is much more abrasion resistant than the Gates hose.

Sandwich Vs inline thermostat decision is really only based on fitting and setup, one or the other will suit certain cars better because of the way you have to locate everything.

I'll echo Superdaves experience in that even with a thermostat a decent cooler core can knock your street operating temps below optimum. Reason being most oil thermostats still bleed 10% or more oil through the cooler core even when fully closed so an efficient core will still be pulling some heat out of the oil.

The internal design of the permacool inline thermostats looks like they bleed much more than 10% through the cooler core.

[spiller]

ok, somehow overnight ive been convinced of putting ebay shit on my car

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/OIL-COOLER-RE...ayphotohosting

Shane ive been told you gave this the thumbs up . looks like a trust knock off, the core looks a good size and, well braided lines are brained lines - they might be too long but ill cut them down as short as i can. also has a relocation kit which is a bonus as well as sensor ports but no sandiwch thermostat so looks like an inline thermostat is what ill need to go with...ill use that earls part number, thanks Dave.

if the core is no good i can always swap it with a tried and tested job. i guess if it works, the money saved on this will go towards oil temp + pressure gauges

P.S. where the fuck is the rep button these days? i havent been able to locate it since they altered the board layout. need to send a bit around

[YLD-16L]

ok, somehow overnight ive been convinced of putting ebay shit on my car

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/OIL-COOLER-RE...ayphotohosting

Shane ive been told you gave this the thumbs up . looks like a trust knock off, the core looks a good size and, well braided lines are brained lines - they might be too long but ill cut them down as short as i can. also has a relocation kit which is a bonus as well as sensor ports but no sandiwch thermostat so looks like an inline thermostat is what ill need to go with...ill use that earls part number, thanks Dave.

if the core is no good i can always swap it with a tried and tested job. i guess if it works, the money saved on this will go towards oil temp + pressure gauges

P.S. where the fuck is the rep button these days? i havent been able to locate it since they altered the board layout. need to send a bit around

I told your bro it was alright for his shit heap but you've got a good car so it needs good parts

Seriously though, disregarding the line length issue these kits sometimes have on some cars it'll work fine with the 19 row core they say it comes with.

Re the braid, Just make sure you secure it any where it may rub and it'll be sweet.

[spiller]

yeah those lines will be way too long! ill definately shorten them. i was just about to go down to Outlaw to price up a thermostat and some of that black twisty shit that stops braided hoses from rubbing against stuff.

RE the core size...its 50mm thick which is good and at those dimensions it will make mounting it in the front vent easier, should fit perfectly! "K.L.S." is the brand - nfi what that is but at least it has a brand name, right...right?

[YLD-16L]

K.L.S = King Long Schlong

They make some great stuff


Let us know how they go.

[spiller]

seems fitting

went to price up a thermostat today...earls in-line oil thermostat $275 fuck that idea haha.

just did a quick search online and came up with this B&M example for $94 USD shipped ($111 AUD)
http://www.starperf.com/index.php?p=...414&parent=233

can i do any better than this? Takai what sort of in-line are you using?

[YLD-16L]

seems fitting

went to price up a thermostat today...earls in-line oil thermostat $275 fuck that idea haha.

just did a quick search online and came up with this B&M example for $94 USD shipped ($111 AUD)
http://www.starperf.com/index.php?p=...414&parent=233

can i do any better than this? Takai what sort of in-line are you using?

That thermostat in your link is exactly the same as mine (I can't remember if mine was B&M or Permacool, I think they are the same thing anyway).

It works but I'm sure there are better ones. By better I mean better oil flow control.

[spiller]

the perm-a-cool one looks pretty much the same. earls is $120 AUD before shipping from the states - fuck we get ripped off in aus!

[YLD-16L]

the perm-a-cool one looks pretty much the same. earls is $120 AUD before shipping from the states - fuck we get ripped off in aus!

Yes, we get slugged with some rad mark up.

If they sell the ntp to dash adaptors where ever you're getting this from check and see if they are cheaper too.

[spiller]

ntp dash adaptors? any more details? the earls thermostat was on summitracing so you might want to check there.

ahhh decisions decisions, someone just approcached me with an alternative kit which looks much better than that ebay one. i have to decide betweem a 19 row and 30 row!

[YLD-16L]

The thread on that B&M thermostat you linked to had four ports that are npt thread, your kit will use earls or speedflow most likely so will need the appropriate adaptors.

They are like $8 or $9 locally though so probably just best to wait until you've got it all and then grab the right ones.

[Billzilla]

Just chuck a WRX oil cooler onto it ->



You'll need to make a long retainer for it, or maybe fit a 3SGTE unit instead.
They have the benefit of not needing a thermostat as they follow the temperature of the water anyway, and also help the engine warm-up a little faster after a cold start.
The downsides are that you have to fit water lines to/from it and you have to make sure the water radiator is up to the job of shedding that bit of extra heat.

I've got a Setrab oil/water heat exchanger on the racing car and it works well.