Water 2 Air heat exchanger options

[Pube]

I have go to the point where its time to mount a heat exchanger for the water for my water to air intercooler setup on my 1ggte. I have done some reading and window shopping for different radiators but havent come up with a decision as yet. I have seen the PWR radiators and they look nice and about $500 for a 16" radiator is probably the size I would go for. However it wont be seen at all so I just want some options before I bend over and fork out $500 for some bling when I dont need bling! I have read some oeople have used oil coolers but they seem smallish and big money for a decent size and quality. Also read a bit about a/c raditiors, any advice there?

[Norbie]

AC radiators would be the way to go, you can get pretty big ones and they're practically free at the wreckers.

[old_mr2]

go to a wreckers and pick up a small 4 cyl radiator (excel, mirage, etc) and modify the inlet outlet to suit your application. I priced some at 125 bucks and they were in as new condition. Just take your tape measure and find one that will fit where you want to mount it.

[Pube]

im using an excel radiator to cool my engine and they arnt the smallest of radiators either. My car had a/c so using the condensor could be a possibility. I just wonder is you can still get new condensors for a corona as myne is a bit damaged, as would most used corona units.

[-==L=a=N=c=E==-]

What about the samll radiators found in Civic's and the like? They are usually half the length of the radiator suport, and woul dhave enough mounting points on them to mount anywhere.

[thechuckster]

note: if you setup your own pump to circulate the W2A coolant - don't run it at 100% duty. Some guys using megasquirt to control 3SGTE and similar top-mount W2A coolers have found that:
-the factory ecu modulates pump duty.
-high-speed pumping for a long-duration when the IC is hot/heatsoaked isn't helpful as the hotter water doesn't cool down enough before returning to the IC - the end result was the warmer water mixing with the cooler water in the radiator, negating the benfit of the setup.

I'll try to find the thread on msefi and post some more relevant info/\.

edit: thread is http://www.msextra.com/viewtopic.php?t=22458 (you may have to reister to view)

snippet:

...Once you blip the throttle even to 1200rpm then the pump runs for 30 seconds cooling the lot very quickly. So if you blip the throttle 5 seconds before you want to go thats it. If ther pump runs permenent then you can only run hot water through the whole system untill you start to move.
If you touch the throttle every 29 seconds the pump runs without stopping, I did this for 35 mins with no stopping of the pump whilst driving, I did not use temp guages to test the temps but my hand on the front I/C rad, ambient or HOT are noticable belive me
I did have a light to tell me when the pump was running on the dash though. So perhaps MrT knew best after all ...

the last post in the thread (page 2) shows log data of a heatsoak (stop to refuel) being cooled down after driving off 47 down to 32 degrees C (using stock top-mount interheater) - look for chart line called MAT.

Also - toyota pump doesn;t modulate pump speed, only duty so error in original post fixed.

[feral4mr2]

AC radiators would be the way to go, you can get pretty big ones and they're practically free at the wreckers.

while a/c condensors work, aluminium radiators are a better option.